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2G Recommended timing components

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MasterMatt209

Proven Member
473
30
Jan 17, 2015
Danville, Indiana
So my 95 Talon TSi is gonna be getting some lifters from extreme psi the revised ones. Last time I did those to my eclipse I did the timing belt at the same time because I’m pretty sure that’s common to do that at the same time right? My question is should I just replace the belt or should I get the timing kit? Extreme psi has one but it’s Gates brand, is that pretty trustworthy? The car is almost at 100,00 Miles for reference.
 
When I replaced the timing belt on my 4G64 I used a Gates kit. The 7 bolt 4G63t I just purchased will be getting a Gates racing timing belt and a Gates water pump.

Needless to say, I trust Gates for my timing components.
 
When was last timing service performed? 4g63T engines have a suggested 60,000 mile service interval.
 
Get the gates kit with an oem hydraulic tensioner.

So
Timing belt, balance shaft belt, Mitsubishi tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, balance shaft tensioner pulley, Cam seals, crank seals, oil pump pulley seal.

You will need the timing tool set with all 3 pieces.

It might be easier to just remove the cams to do the lifters

Print out the guide on vfaq.com and plan to take a few days to do the job right if it's your first time
 
Don't like Gates, never have. But if it works for ya'll, thats cool. I've always uses a brand called Mitsuboshi (yes with an "o") for the belts, and GMB for my pulleys/and water pumps. Gates products make noise and fail fast in my experience as a technician. Especially serpentine components making me trust their timing components even less. GMB is always the more expensive option my shop offers customers that never seem to have issues. I've owned 6 4g series engine vehicles and this is what I used on all of them and what I feel most comfortable with. Just offering my .02 on it.
 
Everybody has a different opinion here (and that's OK). Personally, I like to use the OEM Mitsu timing components - esp, the hydraulic tensioner that Chrysler kid mentioned, but I am running the blue gates racing belt Biddy mentioned above. I could care less about the color or flash so much, I just wanted a timing belt that was ultra reliable b/c I experienced a timing crash on these cars once and it sucked $$$ wise. I've had the Gates blue belt for maybe 7-8 years.

The timing tool set Chrysler Kid mentioned is a nice to have as well (I have one), but you can do it without. Some binder clips and a good eye and you can make it happen. If you're going to working on your car on the regular though - definitely worth the investment.
 
I've used them all, compared them all.

Gates is good, continental is good, gates racing is good. Bando is good, mitsuboshi is good. As far as price to value I prefer continental

I can't say one is better than the other, the gates racing is easier to spot any tension problems and wear issues. I've seen used cars with worn belts turn back to black which to me is a great indication of a problem

The continental also has a large indicator area where it shows wear

Top one is a Mitsubishi oem with 110k on it

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It's all personal preference really I run a gates blue belt for timing and balance shaft (when I had them) OEM for everything else. The timing tools do help and zip ties as well. Don't forget the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals too and bleed the new lifters before install.
 
I have a Gates racing belt that has been on my 2g for about 6 years / 40k miles now. Still going strong.

I'll be using their regular timing belt kit with the waterpump on my girlfriend's 1g here in a month or two. When the engine gives way someday I'll put a Gates Racing belt on it.
 
This isn't directly related to the OP's specific post, but:
What would happen if I used a belt with 123 teeth instead of 124 in my 2G 4G64 Spyder?
I'm in the middle of a WP/Timing Belt job and I'm looking at a Bando TB with 123 teeth (99 Galant or 3G Spyders). Right now I'm leaning toward not using it and getting a correct Dayco or Gates belt with 124 teeth. The one I'm replacing is a Dayco which lasted fine for 4 yrs but now has some tiny cracks all through the belt on one side.
There's also a brand Melling sold by O'Reilly that I haven't heard of before.
 
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Personally I'd say if it has one less tooth there's a reason ours have one more timeing is nothing to skimp on man just get a known good belt and oem parts. If your tbelt is off by a tooth so is your timeing right? Well you remove one tooth will it ever time right?
No experiences with 2gs but I know it was made a specific way for a reason. My opinion others may have diferant.
 
Personally I'd say if it has one less tooth there's a reason ours have one more timeing is nothing to skimp on man just get a known good belt and oem parts. If your tbelt is off by a tooth so is your timeing right? Well you remove one tooth will it ever time right?
No experiences with 2gs but I know it was made a specific way for a reason. My opinion others may have diferant.

Well I know it's been done before with another Mitsubishi engine and belt with no problems. Basically it's one tooth shorter and it would tension differently, and I would know if the timing is right when I do the two crankshaft rotations and see if the pin goes into the tensioner hole. The 2G 4G64 is an earlier version of the engine and application and 3Gs and 4Gs use the 123 tooth version. I think the issue is more about the application of the engine than the engine itself (the 4G64 orientation is flipped in 3Gs and other Mitsus from the '99 Spyder).

But yeah I'd rather not risk it. Mostly I don't like the looks of the Bando belt which is from a kit. It looks cheap and badly made compared to the Dayco. I probably won't get an OEM Mitsu belt but I understand they're made by Conti which I could find for less than from the dealer.

Edit: Just so I don't get hit with stuff about "misinformation": The belt is 122 teeth in 4Gs. I wouldn't think of trying that.
 
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As I said my opinion. But to me that tooth matters because when our engine was designed it was for that 124 tooth belt the other engines where made for a 12x tooth belt. They made it that way for a reason and if you gamble and are wrong that 100's of dollars quickly turns to thousands. To each is there own I advocate doing things by the FSM because that's what Mitsubishi said had to be done they built the engine and know why every step was necessary or it wouldn't be in the book.
 
Well I know it's been done before with another Mitsubishi engine and belt with no problems. Basically it's one tooth shorter and it would tension differently, and I would know if the timing is right when I do the two crankshaft rotations and see if the pin goes into the tensioner hole. The 2G 4G64 is an earlier version of the engine and application and 3Gs and 4Gs use the 123 tooth version. I think the issue is more about the application of the engine than the engine itself (the 4G64 orientation is flipped in 3Gs and other Mitsus from the '99 Spyder).

But yeah I'd rather not risk it. Mostly I don't like the looks of the Bando belt which is from a kit. It looks cheap and badly made compared to the Dayco. I probably won't get an OEM Mitsu belt but I understand they're made by Conti which I could find for less than from the dealer.

Edit: Just so I don't get hit with stuff about "misinformation": The belt is 122 teeth in 4Gs. I wouldn't think of trying that.

Just pick up a Gates belt. They're cheap and good quality for the price.
 
Well I know it's been done before with another Mitsubishi engine and belt with no problems. Basically it's one tooth shorter and it would tension differently, and I would know if the timing is right when I do the two crankshaft rotations and see if the pin goes into the tensioner hole. The 2G 4G64 is an earlier version of the engine and application and 3Gs and 4Gs use the 123 tooth version. I think the issue is more about the application of the engine than the engine itself (the 4G64 orientation is flipped in 3Gs and other Mitsus from the '99 Spyder).

But yeah I'd rather not risk it. Mostly I don't like the looks of the Bando belt which is from a kit. It looks cheap and badly made compared to the Dayco. I probably won't get an OEM Mitsu belt but I understand they're made by Conti which I could find for less than from the dealer.

Edit: Just so I don't get hit with stuff about "misinformation": The belt is 122 teeth in 4Gs. I wouldn't think of trying that.

No. You cannot use a 4g63 153 tooth belt on a dohc 2.4l motor without other hardware changes. You need the specific 154 tooth belt for that motor.

The belt has static length/tension on the right side which keeps the motor in time. Using a shorter belt will throw off mechanical timing between the two unless you are using adjustable cam gears. The left adjustable side is only for belt tension.

Also if you decide to use the correct 154 tooth belt with stock cam gears, make sure you have to correct 64 gears and not the 63 and the timing marks off off between the two.
 
No. You cannot use a 4g63 153 tooth belt on a dohc 2.4l motor without other hardware changes. You need the specific 154 tooth belt for that motor.

?

I think you're referring to something else, like maybe a 4g64->63 head conversion, which is a different subject. My engine is SOHC 2.4l and the only belts for these engines are 123 or 124 tooth belts.

Anyways I've gone ahead and picked up a Gates 124 tooth belt. I should have it in a couple of days.
 
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Sorry. I though you had a dohc 4g64 since you said you had a 99 Spyder but then your profile is mis label as a gsx. I assumed you 2.4 swapped it. I wasn't really looking at the engine pic.
 
Sorry. I though you had a dohc 4g64 since you said you had a 99 Spyder but then your profile is mis label as a gsx. I assumed you 2.4 swapped it. I wasn't really looking at the engine pic.

Yes I fixed the profile yesterday, but my posts were still coming through with the "GSX" signature in this thread. As I recall there was no "Spyder GS" selection when I first set up the profile.

Your info though on adjustable camshaft and 154-tooth belt for the 4G63/64 hybrid is generally helpful. Don't know if I'll get to all that in this car. It seems like if I had installed the 123-tooth belt in this '99 4G64, I would know if the timing were off after turning the crank a few times and looking at the marks at the crankshaft sprocket and the top of the cam.
 
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