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Pulled the valve cover and you'll never guess.

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Take this as constructive criticism...

I would honestly take that blue wire loom off... your not fooling anybody and its just making the setup look cheap and "ghetto rigged"

Although the vc paint looks good

If you want to have a nice show car quality bay... look into powdercoating, or at least paint some parts for a much cleaner and professional look... not $5 wire loom ;)

The loom isnt meant to be show quality. It was simply used to cover and replace the old crusted black looming that was already there. The extra looming was done just because I was bored and had the loom. most of the hoses and cable are being replace with SS braided where I can get it, and the rest I'll have to make.

I might be repainting the valve cover to a darker blue wrinkle paint, becase ts texture is more rich and it looks good on Honda VC's

@ Calan. Merry Christmas to you

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well I know a way to gut around the VC gasket, but not the half moon plug.

Get a tube of Black RTV, not the little hand tube, but the big tube that fits in a calking gun.

There can be ZERO oil on the VC rail of the head, or oil in the groove of the VC.

If there is, this will NOT work.
Also if you ever have to pull the VC you will have to totaly redo this, and remove every little piece from the VC groove.

Your car will be down for 24 to 48 hours if you so choose to do this.

Get the RTV black and calk gun,
pull the VC
Clean the groove with brake cleaner and Q-tips
Blow dry the groove

Now the hard part.... Take the RTV black, and place in the calk gun, cut the tip to 1/8-3/16 dia hole
Now fill the groove so it is slightly over filled, about .030 over the edge of the groove.
The whole groove needs to be as even as possiable

Now let the RTV Black "skin up" takes 10-30 mins depending on temp.
when it it is skinned, you will be able to lightly touch it, and not pull a "peak" when you lift your finger.

While the RTV Black is setting up, go clean the VC rail on the head with more brake clean and a CLEAN lint free rag or paper towel.

Once done, check the RTV in the VC, if skinned, then install the VC and torque to spec.

Let sit for 24-48 hours to let the RTV back fully cure, DO NOT START THE CAR!! The oil can and will make worm holes in the RTV untill it is fully cured.

Once cured, then you can start the car up and check for leaks, if it leaks, remove the VC and start over.

This is a true PITA to do, I have done it before on an engine, but I had to do this with an oil pan, and took ME 3 tries to get it not to leak.

If you choose to do this, and it leaks, and fries your engine, it is not my fault. I have warned you of the pitfalls of this.
 
well I know a way to gut around the VC gasket, but not the half moon plug.

Get a tube of Black RTV, not the little hand tube, but the big tube that fits in a calking gun.

There can be ZERO oil on the VC rail of the head, or oil in the groove of the VC.

If there is, this will NOT work.
Also if you ever have to pull the VC you will have to totaly redo this, and remove every little piece from the VC groove.

Your car will be down for 24 to 48 hours if you so choose to do this.

Get the RTV black and calk gun,
pull the VC
Clean the groove with brake cleaner and Q-tips
Blow dry the groove

Now the hard part.... Take the RTV black, and place in the calk gun, cut the tip to 1/8-3/16 dia hole
Now fill the groove so it is slightly over filled, about .030 over the edge of the groove.
The whole groove needs to be as even as possiable

Now let the RTV Black "skin up" takes 10-30 mins depending on temp.
when it it is skinned, you will be able to lightly touch it, and not pull a "peak" when you lift your finger.

While the RTV Black is setting up, go clean the VC rail on the head with more brake clean and a CLEAN lint free rag or paper towel.

Once done, check the RTV in the VC, if skinned, then install the VC and torque to spec.

Let sit for 24-48 hours to let the RTV back fully cure, DO NOT START THE CAR!! The oil can and will make worm holes in the RTV untill it is fully cured.

Once cured, then you can start the car up and check for leaks, if it leaks, remove the VC and start over.

This is a true PITA to do, I have done it before on an engine, but I had to do this with an oil pan, and took ME 3 tries to get it not to leak.

If you choose to do this, and it leaks, and fries your engine, it is not my fault. I have warned you of the pitfalls of this.

i'm not trying to knock your advice here but you canot use Black RTV on something that emits that much heat, you'd have to use red high heat silicone. You can use Black RTV on the oil pan or the trans.
 
When I replaced my VC gasket I used the Felpro rubber gasket with o ring set, and red high heat silicone.

As advised in most VC replcement/maintence/painting topic I've read. I've never heard of anyone using black rtv. Now if you use black rtv and it works that great. That means theres a another valuable option for gaskets for VC's

To be more specific I was thinking more solid preformed gasket options instead of liquid.

*note* I didnt just do the corners I did a very light coating in the VC well as well as the o ring to hold the gasket in place so I can make sure it was fitted properly to my head. the corners sides and mounting points for the vc bolts were done alittle heavier than the rest. No leaks so far.
 
You don't ever RTV the corners of the gasket? I thought that was standard practice.

Yeah...I use it in the dome corners and across the half-moon as per the FSM. I meant I would never use it in place of an entire gasket.

Now if you use black rtv and it works that great. That means theres a another valuable option for gaskets for VC's

I still fail to see the point of using a bunch of nasty RTV which won't seal as well and will be a complete mess to remove when needed, to replace a $15 gasket that is designed for the job and works perfectly.

But... whatever floats your boat.
 
i'm not trying to knock your advice here but you canot use Black RTV on something that emits that much heat, you'd have to use red high heat silicone. You can use Black RTV on the oil pan or the trans.

If your head is going over 450* I think you have other issues.....

Permatex Pt# 81173

Temperature range -75°F to 450°F (-59°C to 232°C); resists oil, water, weather, vibration, grease.

As a guess... I will say I have used this RTV black on 400? 500? engines I have built. It works for me, not had issues with it... Ill use what I know, but you use what you want too...

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...ermatex_Black_Silicone_Adhesive_Sealant_b.htm

Now if you are worried about underhood temps, forget the red, use copper...
Temperature range -75°F to 700°F (-59°C to 371°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...mum_Temperature_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm

This is what I use for exhaust headers, insted of gaskets, for the dirt track teams.. just after it cures, do not stand behind the exhaust, or your legs get hammered with RTV beads when it breaks off from the ID of the header flange.
 
Its funny how this thread went from "You will never guess I have a stock head", to How can I delete the VC gasket so it looks better.

OP- Your option is probably going to be using the RTV and I know the black will work fine. But why make every valve cover removal a hassle by having to get a special gasket or make one out of RTV? Is it really that noticable that you have a gasket there?
 
Its funny how this thread went from "You will never guess I have a stock head", to How can I delete the VC gasket so it looks better.

OP- Your option is probably going to be using the RTV and I know the black will work fine. But why make every valve cover removal a hassle by having to get a special gasket or make one out of RTV? Is it really that noticable that you have a gasket there?

I dont think theres a such thing as a VC gasket delete. I will problably never use black rtv.

for the record my VC is already on with a felpro gasket set and red high heat silicone.

I never thought of using cooper sealant on my exhaust manifold. I used it on my truck when replacing the O2 sensors but it never clicked in my head I could use it for the whole exhaust system along with gaskets.

Thank you for helping me find out what I had in my head, which pretty much gives me the idea of what elses is in the block. and that I may have a possible rebuilt 420. Pretty much this thread is resolved
 
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I think its funny seeing the made in mex stamp on my head LOL.
 
Pulled the valve cover of my new gsx and my heart sank. I found a hole. I'm not sure if its normal but ... Just look
 

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Better get that thing plugged up, or you'll have a massive oil leak from the head down into the pan. :p

LOLol im sorry but this thread is hilarious. It looks like theres less blue loom however?

you need that "hole"
 
after i finished rebuilding his beat 98 gs motor, this is what my buddy decided to do to the engine bay...i was not amused...

:ohdamn:

Looks nice:thumb:
 
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