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Project Superman: '90 Talon - building my first drag race car

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Thanks for the advice guys. I think I want to play it safe and give myself some tuning room; especially because I want to play with the tuning myself. I think the PTW is =.005 (per the machine shop). I want to go Top ring 22, Second ring 26; from what I have read this should allow me to make good power and have a margin of error with the tuning.

I do not build engines on a regular basis, nor do I know what the current hot setup is, but this seems to be some of the best information I could find on the subject starting here http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...on-wall-clearance-ring-gap.html#post151855751

Maybe we can get some others to chime in on what they are currently having good luck with. :)

This really helped. Thanks
 
SUPERMAN UPDATE

Ok guys, finished installing the brake system. New Master, all new stainless steel brake lines, new braided stainless lines, New OEM calipers, New Pads,. Also install lines and fittings for staging brake. I used: two -3an-m10X1.0 adapter fittings (used on master and brake P-valve), two -3an-1/8 NPT adapter fittings (used on staging brake), -3an lines. Found all the instructions on this site. Also installed some harness brackets from summit to mount to the stock seat belt location. also install my oil cooler. I used Rivnuts to mount it to the frame. More updates shortly.

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This is an awesome build. And has taken super dedication. Cant wait to see this thing run and make a pass!!
 
Looking good, do the stock lower part of the factory door skins attack to the carbon doors?

And I run tighter ring gaps than both of you ;)
 
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Looking good, do the stock lower part of the factory door skins attack to the carbon doors?

And I run tighter ring gaps than both of you ;)

The doors have the mounting holes for the molding. I don't plan on adding the molding at this time. This is my first engine build so I just wanted to play it safe. How about running 20 top and 24 second ring. What do you think
 
Superman update

Quick question guys, do you have to gap the oil rings? If so, do I just use the factory specs?
 
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Superman update

Hey guys, sorry for the lack of updates. My pc is down so I can't post pics. I am in the process of putting the engine together. I have a questions about the crank installation. Other then checking the trust clearance, do I have to do something to seat the main bearings with the crank?
 
Just lube them and snug the bolts up lightly. Then take a dead blow hammer and hit the crank from both ends one time to line up the thrust bearing. Thank you for spending the time on this build thered its got to be one of the best one here.
 
Hey guys quick question; for those that are running aluminum rods, the r&r website says that you need a minimum of .0025 oil clearance. My engine specs out to .0015 to .002 which is within factory spec. What do you guys run that have aluminum rods. Also regarding the l19 arp rod bolts, the r&r website says to torque them to 75 foot pounds. That seems like a lot. Just what to confirm that I am on the right track. Still don't have a pc so no pics, should have my pc back next week. Any advice given would be greatly appreciated
 
Torque to 75 when thay were honed that was the number thay used. As for the clearance call them and see what thay say. Mike from R&R is super cool and will take the time to talk to you I worked with him on a set of 420A rods and got to meet him at IMIS.
 
Torque to 75 when thay were honed that was the number thay used. As for the clearance call them and see what thay say. Mike from R&R is super cool and will take the time to talk to you I worked with him on a set of 420A rods and got to meet him at IMIS.

Thanks for the info. I don' think I can get any more clearance because I can't find bearings that have more than a .001 extra clearance which is what I already have.
 
If need be you could have the crankshaft turned for the additional clearance.

I would like to avoid that. I read that cutting the crank weakens it

Ok spoke with R&R regarding the oil clearance. They advised I will be ok with that clearance. The clearance will increase by .001 as the rod grows which will give me about .0025 to .003 clearence.
 
Bump, any updates?
 
Superman Update

Ok guys the build continues, had some PC issues, family issues, car issues, camera issues.... it doesn't really matter. Got started on the engine. First time putting a motor together. Did a ton of reading about this. Got all my instructions from this site and the factory manual. More updates will be coming shortly. This car will be done this year God willing.


Ok, got everything laid out to build my first engine
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Block cleaned and ready to go.
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Installed oil squirters with new washers and red loctite torqued to spec. I cleaned the bearing housings with lint free wipes. Installed the main bearings, Installed plastiguage, then installed the crank and torqued it down.
Removed everything and checked oil clearance. Then oil clearance was between .0015-.002. I used ACL race bearings with the extra clearance.
I was advised that the rod will expand during use so the clearance will grow by .001. After checkings the clearance, I cleaned the bearings and coated them with
assembly lube. I installed the crank. Then installed the ARP Main Studs into the block, dry only finger tight. Install the Main Cap bearings, lubed them up and installed
the main caps in the block. I used a drilled bit to enlarge the oil pick up mount to clear the ARP studs. Lubed the ARP studs, washers, and nuts with ARP lubricant and
torqued everything down in three steps to. I made a mistake on the torque settings and had to loosen everything and then re-torqued. I Checked trust clearance with a dial indicator.
clearance was between.005 to .007. Also tapped the crank back and forth with a mallet to seat the crank. Installed oil pan studs. I am running the moroso oil pan.
I had to clearance the oil pan just a touch to clear the ARP studs/nut.
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Installed BSE. Used some lock tight on the BSE plug that blocks off the balance shaft hole.
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Also used some JB weld on the back of the plug to prevent any leaks. This was the first time I used JB weld. This stuff is amazing when cured.
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Assembled the stubby shaft. Make sure the bolt goes into the lip of the gear not the flat side. used a vice to torque the bolt. Also used red loctite here
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Installed Oil pump gears and packed them with Vasoline.
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Installed oil pump cover using blue loctite on the bolts. Everything should go together with out forcing it, Little wiggle here and there.
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Installed oil pump gear sprocket and nut. I used a wrench to hold the stubby shaft. Used red loctite on the nut and torqued to spec.
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Installed castle plug with some high temp sealant. Used a screw driver with a rubber malet to put some torque into it.
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Sprayed Copper Spray on the front case gasket and let it tack up. Then I installed the gasket on the block and then installed the case. It should fit snug. Make sure all bolts holes line up.
The front case requires various bolts of different lengths. I carefully followed the factory service manual.
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Did you make sure and clean the oil galleys of the crank really really good? Thats something a lot of first timers miss.

Yes, I used soap and garden hose to wash the engine. I then used brake cleaner to clean the crank and oil passages. I repeated this cleaning several times. Then I wiped everything down with oil to prevent rust. I used lint free wipes to clean bearings and bores. I made sure to get all the grit and grime out.
 
I like to use a piece of welding wire and several cans of brake clean to get all the grit out. It gets packed in at the ends of the galleys by the balls, and just spraying it out won't get them clean. Glad to hear you took the time to do it. Many first timers loose nice engines cause of this.
 
I like to use a piece of welding wire and several cans of brake clean to get all the grit out. It gets packed in at the ends of the galleys by the balls, and just spraying it out won't get them clean. Glad to hear you took the time to do it. Many first timers loose nice engines cause of this.

I'd have never though out doing that until I seen Jafro's video's.



I'm just loving this build. Regardless of me not liking drag racing, its just freak'n intense.
 
Superman Update

Hey guys sorry, for the delay.


pistons laid out and cleaned ready to install.First time filing rings. Took a long time but finally got the hang of it. cleaned up rings edges.
installed rings per factory specs. installed pistons.Cleaned crank and then Installed rod bearings. I check all clearance with plastigauge.
Everything was within spec, but on the loose side.
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Installed water pump, used copper spray on gasket
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Installed engine mount, auto tensioner, pulleys, crank sprockets, and torqued crank bolt to spec.
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Installed rear main seal. Used copper spray on gasket. I used one of the pulleys to put the seal.
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