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Project Ruby Sue - 99 GS-T

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tunernewb92

15+ Year Contributor
342
74
Sep 10, 2008
North Canton, Ohio
So I'm not completely new to the DSM game, but have been out for a couple of years. Previously owned a built 1g Talon that myself and a friend built from the ground up into a Road Race monster. However, I just couldn't stay away and after securing some funds found one local that had no rust.

0D4F2062-6629-46D8-B474-EEAA45F1F6D5_zpsu24lceso.jpg

So I bought it for $1700 plus a new set of Drag wheels. And that's basically where this story begins. I will try to bring it up to current speed in this thread.

Mod List

Engine

8.5 to 1 Manley Pistons
Manley H Beams
ACL bearings
ARP rod bolts
ARP mains
ARP head studs
5 angle valve job
SS valves
Manley valve springs
3G lifters
Kiggly HLA
68HTA turbo
FP Manifold
Megan full 3" Exhaust
Punishment Racing IC
Evo 3 O2 housing
Tial BOV
FIC 850cc injectors
Fuel lab regulator
264/264 HKS cams

Drivetrain / Brakes
Stock transmission
All front suspension components replaced 8/15
Tokico shocks
H&R Springs
Brembo drilled / slotted rotors
Hawk Pads
Braided Brake Lines

Electrical
ECM Tuning (blackbox / Tactrix)
AEM Digital Wideband
AEM Digital Boost
AEM Oil Pressure
AEM Water Temp
AEM Volt
Battery Relocated to hatch

Exterior
Stock - needs paint job
17" Drag Wheels
Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 225/45/17

Stuff Sitting in my "Install This Now" Box
Finish engine install
Tucked wiring harness
 
Last edited:
So I work swing shifts so I only work on the car during my days off every two weeks, so updates will come kinda sporadically. However, when I first got the car it needed some love. It has had 10 owners previous owners. Remember - basically bought a running shell as zero rust was my largest concern. First things first was timing belt job, new fluids, and checking what the hell I got myself into.

Timing belt was OEM and looked to be in excellent condition when I pulled it off - except for this knick in it.

B992D3F9-C157-4508-8C7C-2AEEBA4B54B1_zpsum6dpmui.jpg

Previous owner was coming from the mustang all motor platforms - he went to AutoZone to get a coupler and they told him it was okay to run this:

BDC338E3-274A-4157-A0EA-617B616D1AB8_zpsoa9ev5ao.jpg

Jesus Billy, what were you thinking. Also he told me he had removed the ECM Link software and 3" GM Maf crap. And put a stock 1996 turbo ECU in. So blackbox got ordered. The car also had this crappy manifold that didn't leak and looked fairly strong but it put off way to much heat under the hood.

7430F8A5-FC26-47DA-BC65-515763516025_zpsdto407yo.jpg

So at this point I was two weeks in, still hadn't cranked it over.
 
So after finishing the timing belt (OEM everything) and I replaced the balance shaft belt as well - yeah I should have deleted it, but I didn't, and I'm about to pull the engine anyway so get off my back. It cranks! And the radiator leaks - and by leaks I mean Niagra Falls. And there is a nasty exhaust leak at the 02 housing

4070F6C0-D32B-4EA1-AFA9-20F8620625C2_zpsqamopsdy.jpg

So obviously a Mishimoto with dual slim lines was in order.

So why did the 02 housing leak? Well I'll let you decide.

E072C740-6FC6-4BD2-BA12-06B604416601_zpsqzfktruy.jpg

I decided that while I was doing the timing and had that motor mount off, that I would put some poly mounts in as the stocks were shot anyway. And it gave me an excuse to buy a Sawzaw, which everybody needs to use once a week minimum.

A380847D-78E3-4D93-BAE4-A66F10823FF3_zpskd2uxywi.jpg

Time for a car wash and fuel - Premium only.

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Yes that center light is blacked out - Yes it has been replaced now. Yes that is the turbo sticker off a random junkyard car, no I still haven't removed it because I'm lazy.
 
So there were some things missing from the car - and not working. So a trip to the three local junk yards was in order. The main problems were:

Why didn't my blinkers work? Well they were missing the light bulb clip.
Why is my bumper held together with zip ties? - Well it needs a upper front metal piece and all the connecting trim along the bottom and where it attaches to the fender.
Why doesn't my wipers work? Well they need to be plugged in! (this is a reoccurring nightmare in this car)

89CF31EF-6151-4883-A2BE-4A23A8442F1D_zpsdft0efjs.jpg

Also scored black carpet for the hatch - and an OEM cargo net. Also pulled the entire interior panels out of that donor car because it was an immaculate find.

10B87CA9-FE9A-4830-9814-EF5CEA59ED45_zpspud530h5.jpg

I decided to relocate the battery to the trunk - and this being the sixth car that I've done that in now - of course I couldn't get it right the first try. But its much better now. Thats the voltmeter I had to check why there was a bad drain overnight - door locks, crap!

762BFA5A-88A2-43C3-97A8-9BA6E1331454_zps4qqrry8h.jpg
 
So I ordered Mishimoto coolant overflow and catch cans, a spark plug cover, and a clear cam cover off of the classifieds. Here is what the bay looked like about two months ago. Car ran very well.

0B056516-0A48-43A1-9DFC-70223783B95D_zpshnlfabep.jpg

Idled well:

8F537745-718E-4A5C-90C5-95483744303B_zpszolo9xr2.jpg

And after replacing this which apparently was siliconed into place (or attempted to), even read mileage and speed!

A52CE9FA-1627-46FE-9C30-B7C7E99805BB_zpsck1i8d05.jpg

But it was time to get rid of that awful 14b and manifold. So I ordered a 68HTA and FP manifold when they went on stupid sale.

3AD94706-517D-4B38-B528-38590A326F5E_zps8zikffpy.jpg

Also decided it was time to replace every ball joint on the front end. Maybe I should have taken he time to switch to solid/poly mounts all the way around, but I'm building this car to cruise in so that doesn't really align with my goals.

E7F82A09-0A99-41A3-AFBF-1BDEE2A7870C_zpsapluy3qh.jpg
E96576EF-35C7-43E9-949B-87660C7C74A8_zps8lqgf7tg.jpg

And the sway bar wasn't hooked up - what a surprise. (not really no)

25585454-3228-460D-A37F-DBA12521CD91_zps7lmklv6w.jpg

And I noticed that my passenger side CV axle looked like this, so I replaced that too.

CBB27D79-7A60-49BD-91C9-0F003A24B33B_zps8cnz36ty.jpg
 
So here is what the engine looks like right now, and a couple photos. Also ordered a bunch of OEM bolts and nuts to replace the non matching crap that was there and new brakes and rotors.

9B210FB3-B34C-414B-BF50-B109FF4E49D4_zpsejxuyrzk.jpg
303DAFD6-B275-4527-8719-E70722F0A01E_zpsgvuepcvc.jpg
93F3B5F1-7FD3-47CF-9EB0-0632D6C39109_zpsvalemdwp.jpg
08545C66-9FC7-41D9-95C7-351D4AB7ABA7_zpssprn778o.jpg
7149FFD9-31BA-4E5B-ACFA-60BCDEF35D8B_zpseh96pf8q.jpg

And this is where she got all temperamental three days ago and the Alternator went out - in the worst part of town too.

99B61C1C-105C-4095-A7F8-753281BD3EC4_zpszcpwqmts.jpg
 
New updates. So I got fed up with my alternator burning out all the time and before I knew it, this happened.

3D65C550-40BC-46EA-B816-BA2AEF02926E_zps6zdoon4i.jpg

h[URL=http://s122.photobucket.com/user/Stucktaco/media/Eclipse/A1341569-A481-4210-9ECE-0C90A8AA6215_zpsfbg5qz4e.jpg.html]A1341569-A481-4210-9ECE-0C90A8AA6215_zpsfbg5qz4e.jpg[/URL]

and these bearings are completely toast. When I took off the oil pan there were little flakes everywhere, so I guess I'm not reusing the front case. Also I found ARP head bolts and an ACT clutch, with reused clutch bolts - figures. Below are the piston and main bearings.

5B4C05C2-4272-4BFC-BB63-D6205029B79C_zpsesqugbpw.jpg

4ACE1E0A-ACA2-422F-92C0-B2BB3042AF81_zpso6mao8ns.jpg

3429A974-4FFE-4EFC-AB41-96284993A67E_zpsy7yrvmen.jpg


The plan is Manley forged internals. .20 9.5 to 1 compression. New oil pick-up. Not sure if the crank can be saved. Going to let the machine shop decide. ACL bearings. ARP mains, pistons, crank, cam, head studs, cap bolts, manifold to turbo, and turbo to 02 housing. Head will have a 5 angle valve job, titanium valves, manley springs, 3rd gen lifters, Kiggly HLA (for the spirited driving in the mountains), 264 HKS valves, adjustable cam gears.

Going to probably do some form of a wire tuck. Clean the engine bay, probably touch up and repaint it factor colors as well. I can't weld so I won't be shaving the bay (I'm not really into it anyway).
 
Well it seems our goals are pretty much in align with each other. I just hate how badly I over paid for mine. I see you are not too far from me. Who did your tune the first time around?
 
Well it seems our goals are pretty much in align with each other. I just hate how badly I over paid for mine. I see you are not too far from me. Who did your tune the first time around?


I haven't tuned it yet. I will be running Evo Scan and probably tuned by Yucki on this board.
 
Nice car man. The funny thing is I saw your car on Craigslist a while back and almost bought it.
 
Nice car man. The funny thing is I saw your car on Craigslist a while back and almost bought it.

Man after the last few days, you should have just bought it. If I could get ahold of whoever did a bulk of the modifications (wrong), I would go Dominic Torretto and turn them into a janitor.
 
So first off. New parts update - and a lot of them.

Got my IC pipes all cleaned up and powdercoated. Also picked up an Evo 3 o2 housing and had it ceramic coated. Since I have a GS-T the 3* different angle shouldn't make much of a difference.

CBD0D989-24D6-47B6-B005-62431651A680_zpszj83gcrc.jpg

Had my bumper support powdercoated gloss black since it was looking terrible and I wanted something that would last longer than rattle can.

1B40F011-65D8-4316-B3FA-150AFE12AAD3_zpsugycind2.jpg

S90! Now if only my Magnus IM would show up.....

513E21CC-FC1F-4B18-A619-4D24683B507F_zpszbfwcsmp.jpg

Had the valve cover coated something close to the car. Not sure if I will stick with this or go back to black

A8E24045-B757-43B6-A9C9-AA3907E28BDA_zpst3uqijzx.jpg

Engine mounts, thermostat housing, water pipe coated silver.

512B834F-D125-4A92-8D41-B0D43192B8F6_zps0pywcakm.jpg

FP manifold and entire downpipe ceramic coated. The brake and clutch reservoir brackets were salvaged and powdercoated black.

27BBFB03-4120-4F8D-841C-3621C278FE88_zpsh94kbpyy.jpg

And finally a new engine and head and box of OEM bolts. - Strictly Performance.

2DDF17CF-3286-46B5-A502-80133EF4DB0E_zpswfbnde2u.jpg
 
Painted the bay - or tried. For my first try ever it wasn't too bad. A couple of runs here and there that won't be seen once the engine is in. The paint is strong but also a little thin in some places. But the bay is ridiculously clean now and not rusty and that's what I was going for.

6B3C0E37-608A-4155-B0E8-CE6CC1775A71_zps7jklk5nl.jpg
774EAD28-9111-441B-935A-8825F95B37A4_zpsdpof7vsd.jpg
21C95400-ECD4-4FC4-972D-30FD380405E4_zpsoaelolzs.jpg
2BB9C9AB-FFF6-4994-8D16-7E8E5C8EF5D7_zpsomoxoh2j.jpg
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Yes yes, the heater core and evap core weren't taped off. I replaced them so I just left them in to hold the place and not taping off.
 
Replaced the evap and heater cores. Its not that bad, but certainly not something that I will ever want to do again. Also DO NOT order the heater core off of rock auto. Both the $75 and $95 versions are exactly the same (Spectre) and the pipes don't fit and you can't bend them into place.

So first you get your car looking like this with no dash (yeah the cores aren't in that picture, but don't worry baby birds, I'll show you how.

05B6E61A-0289-46CD-AC20-6DF7BFEC6AAB_zpsfblprlpu.jpg

Pull this top piece straight up and off. Just two plastic clips that hold it under the bottom. Just a nice easy sharp tug will do it.

556966bd-8aed-4b23-b991-298f60a62a51_zps4zxn2ejp.jpg

Remove the nuts under the green dots - going to need 12mm deep socket

c8c160c7-7ce0-4c99-b777-d3bfd6fe18d3_zpsvd852zah.jpg

Unbolt these two bolts. These are holding the AC Evap core in place. Also unhook the two wiring clips under each bolt.

496e51c7-7993-4f3e-97ca-81d27a59b03a_zpsrnwbqzde.jpg

Unbolt this bolt, and the Evap core should slide on out.

db20102b-7504-4c0d-9422-84e2c6b788ef_zps5c44arwr.jpg

You don't have to technically do this next part. But its so so so much easier to move everything around. Take the extra five minutes. You will thank me. Remove all the brackets that hold your climate control and your radio in place.

db20102b-7504-4c0d-9422-84e2c6b788ef_zps5c44arwr.jpg
be994c72-69b2-4a51-8bd3-e7cbcd0e362d_zpsrqplivsu.jpg

Boom all your brackets are out of the way. Now to remove the passenger / rear/ floor / whatever they are ducting. Just two screws

2a007db6-53bc-46fa-bdd2-fe7226112a8d_zpsb2eff4ut.jpg

Now grab the two lower bolts holding the heater core box in.

d0c66ecd-4476-42c6-96a9-57e462e7dae7_zpslshswyrp.jpg

And the heater core box will come right out. Install is the reverse. Remember that the A/C box goes in last after the heater core and the blower motor/fan box are installed. It goes back in from the bottom sliding in back toward the firewall and up.

I went ahead and ripped all the gaskets out from between the ducting and put 3m window stripping from Lowe/s Home Depot.
 
loving the clean-up work.

It's an absolute nightmare. But having clean hands while working on parts makes it all worth it. Slowly going back together now. I'll have to try to add some more pictures.

Can't put the engine in as I lost the clip that holds the fork to the throw out bearing and the pivot ball. So I re-ordered them.

But the engine is ready to go back in now. Might just put it in without the transmission so I can finish hooking up all the A/C stuff and be done with that pain in the ass.
 
Getting somewhere finally. Faint glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel. I have about one serious day left of installation mechanically. But that wiring harness is going to be a real pain in my ass. Going with a semi tuck right now and putting the fuse box in the fender as I'll be running fender lining and waterproof the box as best I can.

This was the first time putting the engine and trans in separately and I have to say it was probably easier this way by myself. Used the engine hoist and a strap to put the transmission in.

0D4EA953-2FDA-4D0A-8196-4DE3D50ECCD5_zps1wivbx7i.jpg

The growingly popular power steering line tuck.

6BB4858E-FB57-4726-AA35-F3CCB3858912_zpsx2potrec.jpg

Stock heat shield. Super excited about this. Hopefully I can get decent power and keep my AC working in this 100* heat. Also so shiny and new looking like a proper bay should be.

25A996F6-1877-48C5-981B-9D364B7FDD6E_zpsp2bcbbwg.jpg
 
All built outside on a gravel driveway. Miss my 3800 sq ft shop that I had for my 1992

Yea its great work for being outside. Im honestly jealous of your powder coated items. My bay looks terrible. But years ago when I built my first dsm. I spent more time getting caught up in colors, powder coating this and that and it took for ever, and I sacrificed seat time, for color schemes . . The out come it worth it!! 100% but I want to enjoy driving this new car so Im holding off on the pretty bay. As long as it functions Im good!

Keep up the good work. Your re-sprayed bay is awesome.
 
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