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Street Build Project 1g (NBA DSM)

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UPDATE # 2:

The final install of this update will be installation of the turbo components and fabrication of the oil feed, oil drain and vacuum/ boost pressure lines. I can’t wait to see how this turbo performs in the .55 BEP housing. The turbo consists of a 76-mm turbine housing, the O2 housing is an XS power unit that I upgraded with Tial components. The waste gate spring is a 20-psi unit that is connect to a turbosmart dual mbc.
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Next installment will consist of all the wiring such as both wiring harnesses, fuse and relay boxes, etc. See you then.
 

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I’m back with another update, this one is going to be lengthy. I am expecting my 2nd child in the next few weeks so I know work on the build will halt. I have been working on the car religiously so here we go. As I promised I will be finishing up the wiring in this installment. I decided to mount my fuse boxes, relays etc. in the same location, I picked under the dash where the HVAC was previously located. First was to make a card board template for the relays and terminal blocks. Next, I transferred this to an ABS plastic sheet and mounted the components. After that I made 2 gauge quick disconnect cables for my alternator and starter.

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You can also see how I routed the main fuse box wiring harness. I routed the harness through the dash instead of under it where I previously had it. Although it will be more work to remove it, I find doing it this way makes it cleaner. I started at the headlights and worked my way backwards, I loomed and mounted the harness so the fenders would conceal everything. I used the factory access hole on driver’s side to route the wires inside the car. I had to drill an access hole on the passenger side, but it all worked out.

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Part 2:

So, after the main harness was installed, it was time to work on the accessory wiring. This included wiring for the AEM gauges, Innovate LC-1 wideband, and the methanol injection. I used a terminal block to make all the connections. I mounted this under the shifter cables. I also installed the LC-1 calibration button and led in the unused coin box. I was always intrigued by the dsm auto power/economy switch so I decided to put it to work. This switch will have 3 functions, activate hi-boost setting on the boost controller, activate the water/methanol injection and initiate a secondary ecmlink map.
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Next on the to-do list was finish addressing the engine wire harness. What I found disheartening was I found broken insulation at every connector. I just bit the bullet and purchased the dsm 1990 1g connector kit from Sheridan. I will say money well spent. I finished the harness with new connectors and fire retardant expandable loom. I relocated the power transistor, injector resistor pack and noise filter to the cabin and installed ecmlink and mounted the ecu.
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Once the interior wiring was done, it was time to pull the dash out of storage and install it. I bought new hardware and installation was a breeze. Everything fit like a glove. Next on the list was installing the gauge cluster, and fabbing up the AEM gauges in the console. I also mounted up the two leds for the methanol injection. I also did the final install of the main fuse and methanol progressive controller in the glove box. I then mounted my HKS turbo timer and cooling fan over-ride switch in the lower dash panel. Last on the list was to install the NRG quick disconnect steering wheel hub. I will say I was skeptical of these but this unit is beefy.
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Part 3: I moved my attention back to the battery box to finalize the battery relocation. I mounted the circuit breakers on the box to make removal a little easier. Don't mind the Optima battery, it was used for mock-up purposes.
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So I had to take a break from the wiring, I think I fried a few brain cells dealing with it all. I switched back to installing the rest of the drivetrain. I installed the transfer case and applied all the drivetrain fluids. I also decided to replace the 20+ year wheel studs with ARP extended units.
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Next I turned my attention to my shifter assembly. Everyone that owns a 1990 DSM knows that it has quirkiness other DSM's don't have. One being you cant really buy a short shifter for it. I know of one place that sells one but the price tag was a little steep. So I did a little digging and found an article on the Galant VR-4 forums. This consists of a first gen 3000gt vr-4 shifter that has 1 inch cut off the shifter arm. A few other mods need to happen to make this work but I think it turned out great. I also replaced all the bushings with oem units.
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So if you don't know by now, mostly every part of this build will be done solely by me. Other than some welding and all the powder coating, I have achieved my goal. The next stage of this build will be body work and paint and I have talked myself into doing this part also. In the meantime I decided to practice my painting techniques on my 18x9 Rota Boost wheels. The color I chose was Arizona Bronze Metallic from TCP Global.
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Part 4:
In continuance, I jumped back to the engine bay. I installed the upper inter cooler pipe, Greddy type-r bov, 4 inch intake and my valve cover. Of course Detective Coating did the powder coating and everything turned out flawless. I also connected the engine harness and I’m pleased with how it turned out.
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This is it for now, I have a few electrical bugs to work out before the first start can happen. It’s getting close
 
Good evening fellow tuners, first I want to apologize for the lack of updates, work and new kid has limited any free time I have. I have been working on the car here and there, but really could post any updates. The biggest thing I did was paint the car. Now on to some pics. First thing I did was fill the rear windshield wiper hole. I shaped a piece of abs plastic a little smaller than the rear wiper and attached it with some plastic weld. Next I used 4 layers of fiberglass mat followed by reinforced fiberglass filler.
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Next task was addressing all the dents and dings from 20+ years of abuse. This was my first time ever doing body work, so I made some mistakes along the way. The doors wasn't that bad, but the right rear quarter panel was a nightmare. I first used a stud welder to help pull the panel out to its original shape or as close as possible. Next I ground down the studs and applied fiberglass mat since I burned through a couple of spots. Applied fiberglass filler and then sanded it down to follow the contour of the car. This was then followed by some Rage Gold filler and sanded smooth.

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Once the body repair was complete, I pushed her outside to sand and wash her down. I know I did this at least 10 times. Since I was using a single stage urethane paint, I used 320 grit sanding pads. Next I thoroughly washed her using Ajax dish detergent. Check out my craftsman tow rig LOL.
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Next I let her dry outside since I did this in 90 degree weather, then brought her in to start prepping the doors and door jams for primer and paint.
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So I had to address the rear bumper and license plate lights. Of course as I started to remove the rear bumper ,all hardware started to disintegrate, this was also the case for the license plate light bracket. So exploring my options, I decided to drill out the remaining old hardware and use M6 threaded inserts. I also built a small abs plate for the license plate lights.
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Next I started prepping the car for primer. The usually tape,clean, tack rag etc.

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After I sanded the primer with 600 grit, I started prepping the roof and surrounding trim for the gloss black. I used a two stage base/ clear for this. This is when I realized I should have did a two stage base/clear for the entire car. Next I masked off the roof and trim and proceeded to lay down the white. I laid down 4 coats
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So here is what it looks like as of today, being my first timer I definitely made some mistakes. Paint choice is number one, single stage urethane is on the thin side, so I have runs everywhere, plus my air supply wasn't up to par. I'm going to do a little cut and buff to see if I can make it better. Overall, I think I did a decent job. Next is finish installing trim, side skirts etc., complete the interior, finalize some changes in the engine bay and complete the meth injection (I changed some things around).
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So since a big brake upgrade was done, I wanted to get more driver input and brake feel. I replaced the proportioning valve with a new oem unit and STM brake booster delete plate. This is paired with the 3g master cylinder so the pedal travel isn't that bad, of course this could change once I actually drive the car. I swapped my 1450cc injectors for some FIC High-z 1100cc units. I got these brand new for a very good price, I can still meet my HP goals with these. I also fabricated a better short direct throttle cable using a unit sourced from a 1g 1.8 eclipse. Also some of the pics are out of order because some thing were done before I painted the car.
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Hey is your car a pump gas car or e 85, nice brake delete man my buddy made one. Car is looking good I have yet to paint mine, just bay, and decided to put b quiet mat in my car to quite the cabin down. Do you have any more pics of the ptu wiring im doing a wire job too. just have to cut them I assuming and put the connector in the cabin under the radio like you.
 
Hey is your car a pump gas car or e 85, nice brake delete man my buddy made one. Car is looking good I have yet to paint mine, just bay, and decided to put b quiet mat in my car to quite the cabin down. Do you have any more pics of the ptu wiring im doing a wire job too. just have to cut them I assuming and put the connector in the cabin under the radio like you.
Yeah mine will be a 93 pump gas car, I can get more pics of the ptu wiring, I actually just converted mine to a 91-94 ptu because of the locking connector. Mine was broken and kept slipping off.
 
Car looks good man. If it were mine I would have painted the side mirrors and 3 piece wing black. The roof looks like the clear dried too quickly? What type of hardener did you use for the clear? A buff and polish will let that thing spark for sure.
 
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Car looks good man. If it were mine I would have painted the side mirrors and 3 piece wing black. The roof looks like the clear dried too quickly? What type of hardener did you use for the clear? A buff and polish will let that thing spark for sure.
Yeah I thought about doing a panda scheme, I think the clear-coat came out like that because I was painting when the humidity was too high. I also think my air supply was jacked up. I will definitely be doing a cut and buff. Honestly I see why paint shops charge so much.
 
Sorry for the prolonged update, 2020 has been a hell of a year. I thought it was time to update the build. So first thing, I moved the FP manifold and external gate to my spare engine. I replaced it with a JM Fabrications tubular manifold, tial Mvs wastegate with JM Fabrications external O2 housing. I have to say these are some well built parts and fit very well together.
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Next on the list was to ditch the plastic coolant overflow. I purchased a stainless steel unit from amazon and made a bracket to attach it to the radiator.
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So to clean up the firewall a little I wanted to mount the AFPR directly to the fuel rail. I went with fuelab mini regulator and it turned out great. Next on my to-do list was tackle some oiling issues. I made an oil relocation using a distribution block for the oil senders. I also relocated the oil cooler to a more sufficient air source.
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So this update took me out of my comfort zone a little bit. I love the look of a brake booster delete, only thing is I couldn’t find the proper master cylinder that would work well. I tried a 3g master cylinder and this made the pedal extremely hard. I was intrigued by the Chase Bays brake delete kit so I did some research. So to my surprise Honda’s have the same brake booster bolt pattern as our DSM’s. So I ordered a delete plate from MPC, wilwood master cylinder and bias valve with fittings from Chase Bays.
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And this is how everything looks now
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