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Street Build Project 1g (NBA DSM)

Posted by jamel16, Jul 24, 2016

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  1. jamel16

    jamel16 Proven Member

    81
    83
    Joined Aug 6, 2004
    Richmond, Virginia
    Here is the start of my 1g build, but not with a little background info first. My first dsm that I bought in 2000 was the infamous, potent 1.8l 1991 Plymouth Laser similar to this one: This is what got me started into dsm's, especially 1g's. View attachment 308571 This is the beginning of project NBA DSM aka ( Never Buy A DSM). 1991-plymouth-laser-6.jpg
     

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    Last edited: Jul 24, 2016
    My DSM:
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  2. jamel16

    jamel16 Proven Member

    81
    83
    Joined Aug 6, 2004
    Richmond, Virginia
    Different aspects of the build has changed throughout the years, but the ultimate goal has stayed the same: A clean street driven machine that will showcase the potential of these extraordinary vehicles. I will be documenting this project in different stages of the build, so bear with me as I will try to update frequently. Without further a delay, here is my never ending sink hole of moolah: 37742_126357907408558_493201_n.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2016
    My DSM:
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  3. jamel16

    jamel16 Proven Member

    81
    83
    Joined Aug 6, 2004
    Richmond, Virginia
    I picked her up in 2003, for a mere 400.00 dollars, a blown engine and a bunch of eBay parts. I was headed out the door for my first deployment to Iraq, so I knew I wanted a project for when I came home. The car only had two previous owners, but I could tell through the maintenance and so called performance mods that they were younger guys that only wanted to go fast. Here is the car moving to its permanent residence in Richmond Va. 284081_225818310795850_6789423_n.jpg
     
    My DSM:
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  4. jamel16

    jamel16 Proven Member

    81
    83
    Joined Aug 6, 2004
    Richmond, Virginia
    So in the beginning all I wanted to do was get the car up and running, so at that time taking a bunch of pictures and documenting my progress wasn’t a top priority. So documentation of the engine build will be limited. This was my first build ever so I didn’t want to trust my engine rebuild to anyone including myself. So I had Automotive Engine Specialists Inc. out of Lynchburg Va. to perform the short block and cylinder head rebuild. The short block consists of .040 over NPR pistons, 1g big rods, ARP rod bolts, ACL main and rod bearings and ARP head studs. The cylinder head is hot tanked, lightly ported and polished with 1mm o/s valves, new valve guides and valve stems, 3g lifters, evo 8 valve springs and retainers and Web 546/547 camshafts. Also all new timing components, BSE kit and adjustable cam gears were installed. The cam gears has been replaced with OBX units 183952_225812187463129_6103620_n.jpg 251606_225813030796378_7082905_n.jpg 282506_225813684129646_3937641_n.jpg
     
    My DSM:
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  5. jamel16

    jamel16 Proven Member

    81
    83
    Joined Aug 6, 2004
    Richmond, Virginia
    Update: So I’m going to jump around on the build since I’m waiting for some components to get back from Detective Coating. So this installment will consist of the engine and fuse box tuck, I am also adding an auxiliary fuse box for gauges, cooling fans, etc. This will be a lengthy thread so please bear with me. So initially I wanted a clean, shaved bay since I believe it's a main focal point in a build. So lets get started. We all know that a 1g dsm harness is a complete mess and mine was no exception, so first thing first, rip it all out. 283115_225817340795947_4709402_n.jpg
    . Next it was time to remove the wire loom and decide what connectors are staying and what’s leaving IMG_1116.JPG IMG_0353.JPG 010.JPG IMG_0359.JPG . So the plan for the engine harness was pretty simple, I relocated the injector resistor pack, power transistor, tach interface resistor and ignition timing plug to inside the dash where the radio is located. The only plugs that remains in the engine bay is the fuel injector plugs,coil pack, knock sensor, ECT, TPS, ISC, throttle position stop switch, MAF, windshield wiper and battery/ starter connector. Everything else was depinned and removed. I purchased all my wire, braided sleeve, terminals and pigtail connectors from McMaster-Carr and OHM Racing. Did I mention I really hate wiring LOL? IMG_1127.JPG IMG_1128.JPG IMG_1129.JPG
    Well here is the finished product, although I might switch some things around, I think it turned out great. (The loose wires connect to the fuse box and interior harness and will be shortened, and loomed at a later date.) IMG_0360.JPG
     
    My DSM:
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  6. jamel16

    jamel16 Proven Member

    81
    83
    Joined Aug 6, 2004
    Richmond, Virginia
    Update: So back to the infamous wiring, since the engine harness was 95% squared away, it was time to tackle the interior fuse boxes. So the plan is to relocate the main fuse box to the glove compartment, shorten, reroute and get rid of the unnecessary air conditioner connectors. I basically split the fuse box harness in two parts and routed each section through the drivers and passenger side fender wells. Before I started laying the ground work for the wiring, I laid down four layers of Fat Mat sound deadening material on the roof, doors, hatch area and on the floor. I wanted the car to be Lexus quiet on the inside. 206180_225819890795692_931767_n.jpg 021.JPG 226189_225820390795642_126160_n.jpg 281939_225819434129071_5351199_n.jpg Now on to the fuse box and interior wiring 231.JPG IMG_0304.JPG IMG_0306.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2016
    My DSM:
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  7. ErikTande

    ErikTande Supporting Member

    737
    151
    Joined Dec 17, 2012
    Centennial, Colorado
    Awesome work, love it! Any idea how much the Fat Mat weighs?
     
    My DSM:
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  8. C'LO

    C'LO Supporting Member

    71
    11
    Joined Sep 9, 2007
    Haverhill, Massachusetts
    Haha usually most people cut out as much as they can... Should be nice and quiet now
     
  9. jamel16

    jamel16 Proven Member

    81
    83
    Joined Aug 6, 2004
    Richmond, Virginia
    LOL, Honestly I'm not sure how much weight I've added, but to guesstimate maybe 25-30 lbs. I'm just hoping that it actually reduces the noise level in the cabin.
     
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    ErikTande likes this.
  10. jamel16

    jamel16 Proven Member

    81
    83
    Joined Aug 6, 2004
    Richmond, Virginia
    Update Continued: So to continue the interior fuse box tuck, I ran all the wiring underneath the dash, of course I had to remove the dash for this process. I also removed all the HVAC system, the car will mostly be a summer/ weekend driver, so it doesn’t mean that much to me. The rear defroster relay and wiring also got deleted later in the build.
    • Next order of business was the auxiliary fuse box. My requirements were pretty simple, a high amp rated capacity, enough fuse locations for my required needs, dedicated connections for either 12v switched sources or multiple ground connections, trusted manufacture, and a decent since it would be hidden. I searched online and at my local auto stores and didn’t really find anything that suited my taste, either the amp rating was too low or the fuse box was too cheaply made. I contemplated on purchasing one from Painless Wiring, but they were a little too expensive. What I eventually found was perfect for my application, a Blue Sea System Safety Hub 150: It’s actually built for the marine industry :Here are some specs:Accepts four AMI® or MIDI® Fuses for high-amp circuits up to 200A
    • Accepts six ATO® or ATC® Fuses for circuits up to 30A including bilge pumps, electronics and lights
    • Sealed cover protects fuses from the harsh marine environment and satisfies ABYC/USCG insulation requirements
    • Negative bus provides common location for negative connection
    • Circuit identification label with write-on capability
    • Fuse puller easily removes ATO® or ATC® Fuses
    • Cover provides storage space for two spare ATO® or ATC® and two spare AMI® or MIDI® fuses and mounting screws
    • One-piece stainless flange nuts ensure safe and secure connections IMG_0036 (1).JPG 028.JPG
      Now the key task was finding a location for the auxiliary fuse block. I wanted it to be in a central, easy to access location. Guess what it fits perfect in the center console without any cutting or grinding. It just drops right down in there securely without a problem. 007.JPG 008.JPG
      The fuse block will provide power to the MPI relay (20A), Ignition (30A), Alternator (100A), SPAL Radiator fans (50A), fog lights (25A), meth injection (30A), Dual 255 fuel pumps (60A), Gauges (25A), Headlights High/Low beam(50A). I also mounted relays in the console for the headlights hi/low beam, fog lights and radiator fans plus a couple of spares.
      027.JPG
      Power consist of 2/0-gauge wire running straight from the battery, I also converted the negative buss bar into a 12V switched power buss bar. Iran a 10-gauge power wire from the 12V switched ignition wire to the buss bar. This will power the components that also require a 12V switched source.
      IMG_0325.JPG IMG_0326.JPG IMG_0337.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2016
    My DSM:
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  11. awdmonster1904

    awdmonster1904 Supporting Member

    330
    20
    Joined Aug 23, 2007
    Fullerton, California
    I admire your wiring skills I wish I was that pacient...
     
    My DSM:
    1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

    10.410 @ 137.9 MPH
    1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

    Drag Race Build

    GT35   manual
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    bdubb4g63 likes this.
  12. jamel16

    jamel16 Proven Member

    81
    83
    Joined Aug 6, 2004
    Richmond, Virginia
    Thanks man, trust me patience is key, but I also have PTSD, so it actually helps mellow everything out if that makes sense.
     
    My DSM:
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    bdubb4g63 likes this.
  13. 90laserRSfwd

    90laserRSfwd Proven Member

    1,270
    68
    Joined Mar 5, 2007
    Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
    Nice find on the fuse block! Good job so far!!
     
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  14. jamel16

    jamel16 Proven Member

    81
    83
    Joined Aug 6, 2004
    Richmond, Virginia
    Thanks, I really appreciate that
     
    My DSM:
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  15. iugrad92turbo

    iugrad92turbo Proven Member

    10,318
    331
    Joined May 22, 2007
    Kalamazoo, Michigan
    Really cool man.
     
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  16. jamel16

    jamel16 Proven Member

    81
    83
    Joined Aug 6, 2004
    Richmond, Virginia
    Thanks brother
     
    My DSM:
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  17. jamel16

    jamel16 Proven Member

    81
    83
    Joined Aug 6, 2004
    Richmond, Virginia
    Update: Since the auxiliary fuse block wiring is pretty much finished, I decided to place an order for my battery relocation kit. That should be here sometime next week. Well waiting for that, I decided to wire up my gauges and find a sleek, low key location. I could have easily just got a gauge pod, but a couple of friends got theirs ripped out during a car theft. I just think it becomes more of a target. I decided to go with the Prosport Premium amber/white collection. I read the reviews and they seemed to be decent for the price. The gauges I picked up was the electric boost/vacuum, electric oil pressure, electric fuel pressure, fuel level, water temperature, and voltmeter, my only complaint so far was that they didn’t come with a black bezel. I also picked up am Innovative LC-1 w/ red DB gauge.
    The plan is to relocate the oil pressure, water temp, fuel level to the gauge cluster, and the boost, fuel pressure, voltmeter, and wideband to the HVAC console. IMG_0049 (1).JPG
    Next I started cutting out the gauge hole in the white bezel holder, I was worried about my indicator lights not working, so my solution was not to disturb the gauge circuit board. Hopefully this thing works. 044.JPG 043.JPG IMG_0052 (1).JPG IMG_0160 (1).JPG
    Before I bought the fuel level gauge, I wanted to replace the oem boost gauge with a oem fuel level gauge. Lets Just say that, that idea didn’t work out too well. IMG_0269.JPG IMG_0348.JPG IMG_0347.JPG
    Here is the finished product, I added a weather pack connector and painted the gauge bezels satin black. It wasn’t that difficult of a project. I also changed the tach to a n/t model because I think it makes the cluster look that much more clean.
     
    My DSM:
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  18. Vinicius Fernandes

    Vinicius Fernandes Probationary Member

    1
    5
    Joined Sep 15, 2015
    SAPUCAIA DO SUL, South America
    wow, real nice man! great ideia you have to put the relays on console!
     
    My DSM:
    1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

    Street Build

      manual
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  19. jamel16

    jamel16 Proven Member

    81
    83
    Joined Aug 6, 2004
    Richmond, Virginia
    Thanks, yeah it just makes it easier to access if need be.
     
    My DSM:
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  20. plucky96

    plucky96 Proven Member

    12
    0
    Joined Mar 6, 2002
    ,
    Great work my friend!!!
     
  21. boostin92awd

    boostin92awd Proven Member

    213
    0
    Joined Jan 3, 2007
    Endwell, New York
    :applause: This looks great. Keep up the good work
     
    My DSM:
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  22. jamel16

    jamel16 Proven Member

    81
    83
    Joined Aug 6, 2004
    Richmond, Virginia
    Thanks man , more updates coming soon
     
    My DSM:
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  23. boostin92awd

    boostin92awd Proven Member

    213
    0
    Joined Jan 3, 2007
    Endwell, New York
    Looking forward to it
     
    My DSM:
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  24. AKbag

    AKbag Probationary Member

    11
    12
    Joined Oct 4, 2015
    Anchorage, Alaska
    I wanted to do the gauges in the dash like that as well. Looks killer!
     
    My DSM:
    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD (sold)

    Street Build

    16g   manual
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  25. GRAVEDIGGER

    GRAVEDIGGER Proven Member

    2,697
    98
    Joined Nov 26, 2007
    Uniontown, Ohio
    I too admire your wiring skills and patience required. :thumb: Nice work on the car and good luck! Also, thank you for your service! :)
     
    My DSM:
    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    12.149 @ 115.940 MPH
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