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Porting Tools [Merged 3-8] Tool die grinder Dremel

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Interesting. Everyone on my local list tells me that porting the exhaust manifold collector is incredibly hard, even with the right tools, and I shouldn't even ATTEMPT it by myself. Forced Performance charges $90 to do it.

Now you come along and say a crappy drill and some cheap-ass bit from SEARS can take care of the collector area in 20 minutes?

I'd like some more opinions on this. Who is full of shit?
 
Originally posted by MaineDSM
Interesting. Everyone on my local list tells me that porting the exhaust manifold collector is incredibly hard, even with the right tools, and I shouldn't even ATTEMPT it by myself. Forced Performance charges $90 to do it.

Now you come along and say a crappy drill and some cheap-ass bit from SEARS can take care of the collector area in 20 minutes?

I'd like some more opinions on this. Who is full of shit?

20 minutes would be a rough job with no breaks.

I'm doing it, can't say I'm full of shit. Try for yourself. Someone else used it as well, scroll up. How can you even suggest someone is full of shit when TWO people in the SAME thread indicated it works great???
 
Originally posted by aovsi

How can you even suggest someone is full of shit when TWO people in the SAME thread indicated it works great???

Don't get so defensive. SOMEONE *IS* full of shit. If you are right, then it is the people who say porting the exhaust manifold even with the right tools is a hard job.
I never said you were full of shit, I would just like to know why I'm getting two completly diff. stories.

:confused:
 
Originally posted by MaineDSM


Don't get so defensive. SOMEONE *IS* full of shit. If you are right, then it is the people who say porting the exhaust manifold even with the right tools is a hard job.
I never said you were full of shit, I would just like to know why I'm getting two completly diff. stories.

:confused:

First of all. It'll take 2 - 3 porting bits. Second of all, $90 is a f*cking rip-off, when it takes them short time, because they have the right equipment/bits.

It isn't easy, it isn't extremely difficult or complicated either. The only reason it might be "hard", because you have to apply pressure.

It IS hard if you have no idea WTF you're doing, you're lazy, don't understad the concept and have never done anything of this sort.

As you can see in the attachement, one bit is already destroyed and I'm half-done. I could still use the bit, but it's a pain in the ass.

That's two bits @ $4.99 each = $10.

Send it in for porting = $90.

Even if it took a whole day, would you rather pay $90 or $10?
 
Originally posted by aovsi


First of all. It'll take 2 - 3 porting bits. Second of all, $90 is a f*cking rip-off, when it takes them short time, because they have the right equipment/bits.

It isn't easy, it isn't extremely difficult or complicated either. The only reason it might be "hard", because you have to apply pressure.

It IS hard if you have no idea WTF you're doing, you're lazy, don't understad the concept and have never done anything of this sort.

As you can see in the attachement, one bit is already destroyed and I'm half-done. I could still use the bit, but it's a pain in the ass.

That's two bits @ $4.99 each = $10.

Send it in for porting = $90.

Even if it took a whole day, would you rather pay $90 or $10?

Forgot the attachment. :p
 

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Aovsi, thanks for the reply and the picture. That helps a lot. I guess it depends how valuble your time is. My time is not worth much much, so this do-it-yourself route looks worth a try. ;)
 
Then again, it *is* a month later, and you still aren't done. Doesn't sound like 20 minutes to me! :p
 
Originally posted by MaineDSM
Then again, it *is* a month later, and you still aren't done. Doesn't sound like 20 minutes to me! :p

Um, LOL. It's done about 26 days ago (see first post date).

I took before, middle and after photo. :p

I was going to post a "how to" article.
 
Carbide Burrs work a lot better and faster on cast iron parts.

jeff
 
Originally posted by swordfish
Carbide Burrs work a lot better and faster on cast iron parts.

jeff

Yeah well, I don't know what that is or how it looks or how it comes assembled.

Or maybe I do know, and I used it, and it works like shit.

Can you attach an image of one?
 
No image on hand but here are a couple of links. You can usually pick these up at specialty tool stores. Most places that carry air tools have them. The cylindrical and burr in the first link is great as well as the egg shaped burr in the second link. The second link contains many different kinds of cutting bits. These things last forever.

Linky 1
Linky 2

jeff
 
Originally posted by aovsi


Um, LOL. It's done about 26 days ago (see first post date).

I took before, middle and after photo. :p

I was going to post a "how to" article.

Could you post the other two pics? I take it you just have to remove the step to match the hole to a 7cm gasket? :cool:
 
You have to go a little past the step to get your mani. to 7cm. If you just take out the step, I think it leaves you at 6.35 cm.
 
Was curious, I have a little extra cash right now, and was thinking maybe I should spend $100 on a nice dremel kit, it looks like it would take a long time to port anything, but would that work? Is there a better way? I have plenty of time, at either of my jobs to do this. I have old parts I can practice on first. Also, with a dremel could I polis/hone or do I need a bigger tool? I really just want to port though. Thanks!!

Use the 132 accessories to grind, sharpen, drill, polish, sand and more.

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDU...ID=cccladcjikhmhdjcgelceffdfgidgjm.0&MID=9876

Its the $99 MiltiPro kit, some reason it wont take me to that item.
 
I have port turbos and exhaust manifolds with a dremel and you couldn't pay me enough to do it again. I got a electric die grinder and I'll never look back.
 
Alright thanks! Well, Grainger.com has lots of them, which one should I look at getting for doing turbos, manifolds and whatever else!?
 
Carbide bit for porting
Stainless Steel Brush for cleaning
There is also a bit that kinda looks like a porous rock, its very abrasive and works great for smoothing out whatever grooves the carbide bit left.
 
You have been most helpfull! Thank you. I think I am going shopping this weekend.
 
Get yourself a cross cut carbide burr with a round end as well as a single direction cut one. You can use the double for getting the major junk out and the single to start the smoothing process. Use the search engine on here and search for porting and I've posted some advice on here before. Make sure the die grinder you get has some sort of speed adjustment if you can. I makes it a lot easier to control if you're not a top speed all the time. Instead of getting a wire wheel to get everything cleaned up, I'd look into some paddle-style sanding wheels. These are really easy to control and depending on what grit you get, you can make your stuff look like a mirror when you are done. Another advantage is they are pretty cheap.
 
Thanks everyone for the info. I have a few older parts I am gonna practice on!
 
The cross carbide bits are for steel like materials (cast iron).

The single line deep welled bits are for aluminum. They like to shatter if you use them on hard metals.

You want an emory bit, 1/4" shank for the die grinder. It will get stuff all shiny. All you gotta do afterwards is a lil sanding then finish it up with a buffing pad with mothers mag polish.
 
What tools are required, processes, etc etc to port your own head/02 housing/turbo/exhaust manifold? I wanna port mine, but I'd rather not ship the parts off or pay huge labor for local shops to do it. I'm sure I can come across the tools needed, I'm just not very knowledgable of how to. Figured this topic didn't belong in general or extreme, so I stuck it in engine performance. :)

Any info is appreciated. :)
 
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