Pin Hole in Oil Pan. What to patch with?

Posted by Artago, Aug 3, 2010
Newbie Forum - Beginner DSM modification questions and discussions. Common, repetitive, and general discussions will get dumped here from other tech forums. Unless you're a Probationary member you shouldn't post threads here.

  1. Artago

    Artago Supporting Member

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    Hi all,

    I have a tiny pin hole in my oil pan next to my welded -12AN fitting. The hole is around the weld and causing a slow oil leak.

    I'd like to sand it down and patch it with something. I was thinking of using JB weld but I wanted to know if anyone knew of a product (that I can find in any local auto parts store) that would be more suited for the repair.

    Please advise as to what product you would recommend.

    Thanks,

    Tom
    #1
  2. BogusSVO

    BogusSVO DSM Wiseman

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    pull the pan and have it welded.

    over time the expoies will crack and flake .
    #2
  3. cutty2fast

    cutty2fast Proven Member

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    jb weld or quick steal just clean the area and scuff it up a bit

    i've used that quick steal on everything from gas tanks to radiator leaks carburetors etc...
    #3
  4. Artago

    Artago Supporting Member

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    I've removed and re-installed the oil pan 3 times in the past 3 days (don't ask). Fresh synthetic oil each time. So I'm getting a by tired of doing it. :(

    I'll fix the welds next time I take it off. I'm just looking for a quick fix until I can do a proper fix. This is my DD.

    Tom
    #4
  5. skatershawn

    skatershawn Proven Member

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    i had a crack at the bend where the gasket goes and it went along that bend and a bit down the side of the oil pan.. was about 2inches long.. i used JB Weld! no problem so far!

    if you use jb weld MAKE SURE you strip the paint around the crack very well, sand it even better, and scuff it up with some 200 grit or less for the jb weld to have a good place to bond to! Make sure you go well over the edge of the crack but thin the layers out the further you go. let it dry sand it down with some 300 grit or finer! and reapply some if needed! then sand again with fine sand paper spray some primer and paint!! i did mine well over a year ago and have yet to have any issues!

    ALTHO your best bet is to just get a new oil pan or weld it but if you dont have a welder the price to weld the oil pan might get up there. BUT welding would be overall better than jb weld if its welded correctly!

    good luck

    shawn
    #5
  6. Artago

    Artago Supporting Member

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    Thanks, I'll see if I can find it locally.

    Tom

    Awesome, thanks SHAWN. Good to hear that it's holding. I was reluctant to use JB weld for fear of it not sealing (and wasting my time).

    Cheers,

    Tom
    #6
  7. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    I've ran into the exact same issue on an old pan of mine and I can tell you that JB Weld did not work for me. Unless you can get it immaculantly clean, it wont hold well enough to prevent oil from getting by. I too would recommend correcting it with a welder.
    #7
  8. Artago

    Artago Supporting Member

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    Dang. Not what I wanted to hear :(

    Can I weld it with the pan still on the car? Or would that fry some electronics (like the ECU)?

    Tom
    #8
  9. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    You might be able to, but you'd have a hard time getting it clean enough to weld to it if it's still on the car and full of oil.
    #9
  10. DSMunknown

    DSMunknown Proven Member

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    How about fixing something like this? Can I just patch it with some scrap metal? Or just find a used OEM? I'm thinking it would just be easier and ease-of-mind to get another one.


    http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/3807/1001275n.jpg
    #10
  11. cutty2fast

    cutty2fast Proven Member

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    you will be safe with the jb weld just make sure you prep it right, its not like its under alot of pressure or anything....
    #11
  12. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    That looks like it is easily fixable with a welder. Of course, it would have to come off the car and be throughly cleaned first. If it were me and if it's for a 6-bolt, I'd just replace the pan. 6-bolt pans are a dime-a-dozen. What went through it?
    #12
  13. Artago

    Artago Supporting Member

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    I'll give it a shot. Worst case scenario I gotta drop the pan and weld it up.

    Tom
    #13
  14. DSMunknown

    DSMunknown Proven Member

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    http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/4045/1001295v.jpg
    http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/3400/1001247.jpg


    Haven't been able to drive the 2G since August 2nd of '09. :mad:
    #14
  15. crimsondragon

    crimsondragon Proven Member

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    I'd suggest the use of black RTV. It's flexible and oil resistant. I've sealed up leaks coming from the pinch welds with it.
    #15
  16. DSM1G90

    DSM1G90 Supporting Member

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    Take it to a welding shop and they can put a spot of bronze on it. And they should be able to do that bronzing with the pan on the motor...seen that done before if it's a small pinhole leak as you mentioned...
    #16
  17. Artago

    Artago Supporting Member

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    Ok so I took a look at it and the hole is in a tough spot to weld which is made tougher by leaving it on the car.

    So I dropped the pan again. To those of you keeping count, this would be the 4th time in a week.

    Going to clean it up, grind, sand and prep it. Then I'll take it to a muffler shop because my arc welder sucks the big one.

    Once it's welded I'm going to sand it again and JB weld the whole weld all the way around for extra insurance because I don't want to do this a 5th time.

    I'll keep you updated and I'll snap some pics when it's done.

    Going to mark this thread as resolved. Cheers everyone and thanks for the help.

    Tom
    #17
  18. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    I feel your pain, Tom. I went through 4 pans in 2 weeks last summer. I got pretty quick at swapping them, but my patience was spent by the time I was finished. And I haven't had to touch it since, so I'm happy.

    Good luck getting yours to seal. :thumb:

    [​IMG]
    #18
  19. Artago

    Artago Supporting Member

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    ^ Thanks Paul. I've lost patience with this as well.

    I've gotten oil pan swaps down to an art. Takes me 5 hours to disassemble everything remove the pan and reassemble it all again.

    Hey, I got a question for you. Oil pan.... gasket or no gasket?

    If gasket, then what type? OEM (cork) or rubber?

    Tom
    #19
  20. xhackerekx

    xhackerekx Proven Member

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    use only gray silicon with OEM specification.
    #20
  21. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    No gasket. Black or silver RTV is the only way to go.
    #21
  22. Artago

    Artago Supporting Member

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    I used Black RTV but I have found one flaw to it. It's a bi*** to remove the pan because you have to fillet around the RTV seal to remove the pan.

    Is there any trick to getting the pan to un-stick from the block when using RTV?
    #22
  23. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    Maybe try using silver instead? In retrospect, I've never used anything other than silver RTV on the pan, and I've never struggled too much trying to remove it. I know the black works well with oil, but maybe it also has more of a firm/sticky grip than the silver? I'm not sure there...
    #23
  24. Artago

    Artago Supporting Member

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    Black holds like super glue. I takes about 1 hour to fillet about 60% around. Then I had to wedge and pry using all of my body weight (all 205 lbs of it). Sufficed to say, it's a bi***.

    I'll give silver a shot.
    #24

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