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2G Odd shifting

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spyderdrifter

10+ Year Contributor
5,268
711
Jul 11, 2009
Somewhere in, Colorado
This last Friday I bought my new GSX. Only bad part about it, to me anyway, is it's an automatic. I was a little hesitant on getting this since my other eclipse that I'm trying to sell is also an auto car, and the transmission has completely failed. It's a GS though and I know it's a pos Chrysler trans. Won't get into that.

Anyway, the gsx drives fairly well, but does occasionally act sluggish on shifting. Up-shifts and down-shifts. The car sat for two years according to the previous owner. I did check the fluids when I first saw the car and they are all fine, to include the atf which is a light reddish brown. I haven't gotten the opportunity to start changing the fluids but could this be a potential cause for the sluggish shifts? By which I mean the car not moving for two years and perhaps the transmission hasn't had any circulation for that long.

Also, when moving from a stop, the car seems to take longer that a manual trans would to move, and I have to push the pedal down further than I think is necessary for it to move. Could that also be related to the trans? Or maybe turbo lag (16g style turbo), or a possible bad throttle cable? Only mentioning the cable since after driving and it's in park, it'll sometimes idle at 1500 rpms because the throttle body sticks a little and I know it all needs a major cleaning.
 
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Taking longer to move could also be the brakes sticking since it sat for so long. The drag from the brakes can cause issues that you are talking about. The car may just need a tune-up. I recently bought an auto that sat for a year and a half and had similar issues with it feeling sluggish. I went through the maintenance and did a brake job which helped the car a lot. Being an auto, the torque converter does make the car feel sluggish compared to the manual clutch. The TC eats up power to which will give the impression the car is "sluggish". Take a manual car that makes 500 awhp and swap an auto transmission into the exact same setup, the auto will make roughly 400 awhp.

I would do your easy maintenance including spark plugs, fuel filter, check brakes, air filter and possibly wires depending on appearance. Changing the auto fluid is not a bad idea and can help keep your transmission healthy. I change my trans fluid often using Amsoil Synthetic and my trans still feel strong after numerous 10 second passes and daily driving conditions.
 
I do intend on changing the plugs, wires, fuel filter, and lucky for me, I got half of what I need for a complete brake job. I got rear pads and front rotors, need the other half. The brake pedal seems unusually hard when pressed and the fluid is low. The fuild level alone makes me want to change it all but didn't consider thwy could stick. Forgot about that.
 
So I replaced all my brake rotors and pads today and it does feel a little better. My front driver side caliper did have a slightly seized piston since its boot was torn. So now I have to find a rebuild kit for gsx calipers. I do have a fuel filter so I need to find time to change that, and I do plan to change out the trans filter and fluid once I get it all.
 
Another issue I'm having is on occasion, like yesterday it happened a bit, is that while accelerating the transmission seems to be bucking. Like I'll have the pedal under a steady load, and the trans can't decide if it needs to accel or decel??so it tries doing both?? This is even under light load when I'm accelerating slowly. I don't know how else to describe this. The very first time it happened, I had my a/c on, and I shut it off, and the bucking went away. That doesn't work now as it'll continue to happen. Not sure where to go on this.
 
When my car was hunting, it had to do with a TCU code pointing to my TPS and just occasionally my VSS. Do you have a way to verify those are functioning correctly? The software for my new tcu lets me see the tps signal and the VSS signal and also show and clear codes. I had to replace my TPS with a used good unit. My VSS problem still persists as it is a magnetic pulse signal on my 1g, so its not like I can just "replace" it. Check those things so you know its not giving the TCU some irregular signals that are needing to be consistant. Just what I've learned. Good luck!
By the way, redish brown is telling you the fluid has some clutch material in it, how does it smell?
 
I didn't smell the atf when I first looked at it, but I'm sure I would have smelled it if it had a burnt smell. I suppose I should pull the dipstick and smell it for sure though. As far as verifying functions, the only thing I have is a Blue Point Microscan III. It does show live data, and I can see live VSS readings as well as throttle position %. Would that be sufficient enough? I know it can show transmission codes as well, but not sure if it's all the time. When I was dealing with my 99 GS auto prior to buying this one, my scanner never showed trans codes when I first plugged it in. But after I took it to a friend's shop where it was plugged into a Snap-On scanner, mine then displayed trans codes afterward. So it is possible, but not sure if it's conditional beyond just having the code.
 
My codes sometimes didn't show up on my dash, I only noticed it on the TCU software. I tested my TPS and it ohmed out fine but when I replaced it, that problem went away. Usually my VSS is working fine but every now and then it will jump in large increments from say 25 to 55 to 85 then back down quickly, and that gives both my factory TCU and the ForcedFour unit problems. If you can see your TPS is working fine and accurate and the VSS is spot on and doesn't vary, then you can rule those out for your hunting problems I would say.
 
Every shifting/ bucking issue I've ever had with an auto DSM was the tps. The tps is crucial in telling the tcu when to shift, and our tps is very finicky and even if it's off slightly will cause all kinds of issues. Most Galant tps' from the same years are interchangeable for future reference. You have to learn to calibrate properly and keep some backups as I've had them test well but still act funny. First and foremost clean your damn TB with new shaft seals and gaskets. also change your trans filter and fluid, but I guarantee that's not your problem.
 
Every shifting/ bucking issue I've ever had with an auto DSM was the tps. The tps is crucial in telling the tcu when to shift, and our tps is very finicky and even if it's off slightly will cause all kinds of issues. Most Galant tps' from the same years are interchangeable for future reference. You have to learn to calibrate properly and keep some backups as I've had them test well but still act funny. First and foremost clean your damn TB with new shaft seals and gaskets. also change your trans filter and fluid, but I guarantee that's not your problem.
Agree'd. If I hadn't JUST went thru this with my new 92 auto and have the software that points to problems with the codes, I wouldn't know as much as I do. The trans is pretty tempermental about the VSS signal also. It has to jump quite a bit for it to be a problem, but mine does every now and then and it plays games with the transmission. Once I changed my TPS and calibrated it, most of my problems went away also, but I could see a code for the TPS so it wasn't a guessing game. Spyderdrifter, keep your eyes on yours and if you have a spare, try it. (and replace those dam bolts with allen head screws, you will thank yourself later haha). Always trying to help.
Marty
 
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The TPS bolts. If you get them out, go to the hardware/Fastenal store and grab some allen head screws to put back in. It makes it a lot easier to adjust and remove and replace the next time. You'll see. Cost like .50 cents LOL. If you want, up to you. :)

Edit, grab a few flat washers too. All under $1.
 
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I thought those might be what you were referring to, but wasn't sure. I've stripped those in the past and had to be creative with removal. Might just do the allen bolts. OEM ones seem to be too soft for steel.
 
Yes they are that is why I went to my Fastenal store and got GOOD allen head bolts (black, not silver). The washers, though, are silver. Just plain flat washers. :thumb:
 
I just hope that the TPS change will fix your problem. That is really the goal here! :)
 
Home Depot sells the black allen bolts too. I used em for my valve cover. I also picked up a 90° screwdriver ratchet the other day at Harbor Freight for like $3 that would've come in handy for this application. That bottom bolt can be a real pita. I normally use a proper size Philips bit and pliers or vise grip. Many times had to loosen the whole TB up to remove an original 20 yr old tps
 
Oh my God yes, that bolt is a B!^ch... I just pulled the TPS off my spare TB today. Gonna swap them over the weekend hopefully along with my thermostat. Ordered new seals and gaskets for the spare TB so I can give it a rebuild and throw it on. Hopefully the spare TPS shows a good change and will keep it in service on the spare TB if it does.
 
That is the whole purpose of this thread, to get your car shifting normal. The TCU is a finicky little critter. It relies so much on inputs from various sources and if even 1 is out of whack, the TCU is dumb. I override limp mode with my software thank god.
Now you know why allen head screws are a little easier to work with LOL. It's a good upgrade.
 
Since this is my first auto turbo dsm, how can I recognize limp mode? I've only awn 3 auto trans cars, and never had that happen, and my last dsm, the auto 99 GS, that trans just broke with no real warning.
 
At 3000, I am cruising at 65 mph in my auto car, in OD.
Limp mode is recognized by the transmission only giving you Park, Reverse, Neutral and Drive (3rd). No 1st or 2nd.
 
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