obx green 20g

Posted by dustkrock, Jul 11, 2011

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  1. dustkrock

    dustkrock Probationary Member

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    I recently purchased an obx green 20g Turbo. I was wondering what would be the best route for my oil feed line and if I should run a restrictor?
     

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  2. vr4scott

    vr4scott Proven Member

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    Your best bet is going to feed it from the head in the stock location.
     
  3. bsbllfit7

    bsbllfit7 Proven Member

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    you will find mixed reviews on that but most people are liking to feed from the OFH (oil feed housing) directly and if need be put in a restrictor. If i remember correctly MHI turbos like higher oil pressure so no need for a restrictor.
     
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  4. KazooGS-T

    KazooGS-T Proven Member

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    Not a mitsu turbo, it's an OBX unit...

    I highly recommend returning it if possible, but if you must keep it, ask them specifically what oil pressure/feed point they recommend... I have a big suspicion that the turbo will end up dying.
     
    My DSM:
    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

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  5. bsbllfit7

    bsbllfit7 Proven Member

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    i understand usually the knock offs are attempted de-engineered builds. How much did you pay for it? I currently have an older style green in perfect condition and am thinking of upgrading. I would always go from the OFH and restrict. Cleaner cooler oil comes from there!
     
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  6. ed1380

    ed1380 Proven Member

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    You don't restrict journal bearing turbos.
     
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  7. bsbllfit7

    bsbllfit7 Proven Member

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    ya.....you do, ever heard of PTE journal bearing turbos going bad from too much oil pressure? Or how about Holset turbos. All of those are JB turbos and absolutely require restriction of the oil feed
     
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  8. KazooGS-T

    KazooGS-T Proven Member

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    Most OBX products are made cheaply and not correctly... Don't get me wrong, they do make some things worth using. However, I would NEVER use their camshafts or turbochargers.

    There is zero good stories of OBX turbos working well. Their manifolds are usable, however their camshafts will fail quickly along with the turbo units. There are soooo many engineering aspects of the OBX turbo that is wrong, which will cause the turbine to eat into the housing fairly quick.

    Like I said, if possible, return it before you use it... Get as much money back as possible.. There are several MHI 20G's for sell on this forum in the classifieds for a good deal.
     
    My DSM:
    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

    Street Build

      manual
    1993 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    12.700 @ 115.000 MPH
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  9. bsbllfit7

    bsbllfit7 Proven Member

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    Ya i agree, try and get rid of it and pick up something reliable. Ive been the ebay route and it worked and i thought it worked well. Then i swapped to a real MHI turbo and it made a big difference. Definitely more efficient
     
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  10. cliffkemp

    cliffkemp Proven Member

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    Curious as I know next to nothing about cams. How can it fail? Is it due to bad metal alloy? How does the turbo fail as well? bad specs in the build?
     
  11. bsbllfit7

    bsbllfit7 Proven Member

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    clearances and types of material used. They arent as durable and dont handle the beating. Im not sure about the cams but ive read and seen extensive evidence on the turbos
     
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  12. KazooGS-T

    KazooGS-T Proven Member

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    In the camshafts it's a combination of bad metallurgy and terrible QC causing the cams to literally eat into the the rockers/valve springs.


    As far as the turbo's go, there is terrible differences on clearancing and bearing design that causes a very early death. I have literally seen the cheapest eBay units outlast an OBX turbo. The turbo will tear itself apart quite quickly.. It's just a terrible design with not much if any, thought put into shaft materials and clearances of literally every moving piece.
     
    My DSM:
    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

    Street Build

      manual
    1993 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    12.700 @ 115.000 MPH
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  13. JusMX141

    JusMX141 Moderator

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    100% wrong. You should never exceed 48psi at the inlet on a MHI turbo.

    Better let Mitsubishi know that so they can remove the restrictor from the OEM head feed line on all 1G 14B turbos as well as Evo VIII and IX 16G's. ;)
     
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  14. ed1380

    ed1380 Proven Member

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    it depends if balance shafts have been eliminated.


    from a wiseman in another thread
     
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  15. bsbllfit7

    bsbllfit7 Proven Member

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    i stand corrected haha
     
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  16. KazooGS-T

    KazooGS-T Proven Member

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    I never even touched those points because I knew you'd be in here eventually. I'm sure Justin has had some form of experience with an OBX unit from either a customer or personal experience. I have no doubt his evaluation would lead to the same conclusion as mine.
     
    My DSM:
    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

    Street Build

      manual
    1993 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    12.700 @ 115.000 MPH
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  17. codeofdastreets

    codeofdastreets Proven Member

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    How about holsets????
     
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  18. KazooGS-T

    KazooGS-T Proven Member

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    You clearly stated you don't restrict journal bearing turbos, there was nothing about if's/and's/but's... :boring:
     
    My DSM:
    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

    Street Build

      manual
    1993 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    12.700 @ 115.000 MPH
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  19. ed1380

    ed1380 Proven Member

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    I stand corrected too :thumb:

    glad this was brought up or I would have a dead holset on my hands
     
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  20. bsbllfit7

    bsbllfit7 Proven Member

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    haha at least we can admit to it!
     
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  21. KazooGS-T

    KazooGS-T Proven Member

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    Ridgeland, Mississippi

    It's never fun to have something like that happen... I always recommend triple checking information from a reliable source when it comes to an important thing like this. Most people don't even know what a restrictor is, let alone what their proper flow to the turbo should be.
     
    My DSM:
    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

    Street Build

      manual
    1993 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    12.700 @ 115.000 MPH
    Loading...
  22. JusMX141

    JusMX141 Moderator

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    Actually, I have none to offer. :coy:

    Not just a Holset but a turbo of any brand for that matter. You absolutely need to abide by the oiling requirement for any aftermarket turbo you install if you want it to last.

    Holset specs are no more than 72psi max, and as long as you're below that pressure and have an ample drain you can have a supply line the size of a firehose. HX35's are fed with a -6AN feed line on Dodge trucks, but the pressure is always within spec and they have a drain that could swallow a small child.
     
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  23. cliffkemp

    cliffkemp Proven Member

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    carrollton, Georgia
    I am one of those folks. I am getting a turbo made.... it was originally a mhi turbo and will be closer in spec to that of a fp green. it will be a journal bearing turbo as well. I currently have a 16g. Will there be a problem although both are MHI turbos? will current restriction be the same?

    thank you for your time.
     
  24. JusMX141

    JusMX141 Moderator

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    A journal bearing turbo's oiling requirement hinges on it's thrust lubrication system. MHI turbos have a single 1/32" oiling hole in their thrust plate while Garretts have two giant 3/32" oiling holes. The larger the hole in the thrust system, the more parasitic drain there will be on the inlet pressure and available oil flow for the journal bearings.

    If you upgrade the thrust system in a MHI turbo to a plate with two larger oiling holes, then you should consider moving the oil feed to the filter housing with a restrictor in order to get the additional oil volume needed to keep the cartridge well-lubricated, still keeping the pressure below the required 48psi max.
     
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  25. cliffkemp

    cliffkemp Proven Member

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    carrollton, Georgia
    ok thank you for the information/help. I will let the shop know about this when the turbo is ready to be installed. Will measure and adjust if needed with the new turbo.
     

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