The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support STM Tuned

ECMlink Not running correctly, need help

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ErikTande

Supporting Member
1,505
561
Dec 17, 2012
Centennial, Colorado
1990 Eclipse GSX
Speed Density
ECMLink v3 full
hx35
1000cc PTE injectors
walbro450
etc (profile is up to date)


For a little context, this issue started back in December.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/runs-lean-then-dies-wont-stay-running.515235/

The problem was intermittent but has been getting steadily worse. So I ordered a new generic 4 bar map sensor and the car would get running, but not correctly (rich at idle and goes lean when gas is pressed.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/gm...r-generic-runs-rich-after-replacement.517303/

I couldn't get that working so I ordered a real OmniPower 4 Bar Sensor, but that has the same issue, it's rich at idle and goes lean when gas is pressed).

So that's where I'm at. Brand new MAP sensor. Here's my log, any help will be much appreciated!


Pic added because everyone likes pictures.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

  • eriktande_dsm_log.2018.05.11-01.elg
    41.1 KB · Views: 99
FWIW Those GM & GM style MAP sensors are pretty crappy. I never had very good reliability with them & have had bad one out of the box & don't use them anymore myself. Get a laboratory grade type sensor & be done with it. I typical use the AEM branded pressure sensors but any cylindrical metal body sensor will be better than the plastic Gm style sensors. And Yes, your problems are typical for a failing MAP.
 
I noticed the sensor reads -5.5-inHg/+psi when the car is off before it's even started. Is that a problem? If so, is it a problem with the sensor or with calibration?

**EDIT** Nevermind, -5 is normal for being at elevation (Denver, 5500 feet above sea level)
 
Last edited:
Probably about the same as getting multiple bad things from Harbor Freight which is on par with get multiple bad starter, alternator, etc. from the car parts places. The plastic sensor are not very robust. You can break them just by dropping them & they are very sensitive to shock & vibration too.
 
You can test your MAP sensor to make sure it's good if you connect it to a 5v supply, put some vacuum or pressure on the inlet & measure the output voltage on the signal terminal & verify if it's the right output voltage.
 
I had a little time yesterday so I went out to do a little more troubleshooting. Now the car is doing the original problem (leans out and dies, won't stay running). Nothing has been changed. I tried ALL THREE MAP sensors I have, the car is doing the same thing with all of them now (leaning out and dies).

FML


I get the feeling it can't be the MAP sensor. I'll post the log later today, I forgot my laptop and I'm at work.



What could cause it to sometimes lean out and die, and sometimes run way rich? Could a bad wideband do that?
 
Last edited:
Forgive me for my questions Erik as I am also at work and can't see the log. Are you simulating narrowband in the front o2? are you logging front o2 voltage?
 
Forgive me for my questions Erik as I am also at work and can't see the log. Are you simulating narrowband in the front o2? are you logging front o2 voltage?

Yep, I'm simulating narrowband. My wideband is a PLX (Bosch LSU4.9) and it's about 4 or 5 years old. Could that be causing the issue? Log attached.
 

Attachments

  • log.2018.05.14-08_eriktande_leans_out_and_dies.elg
    29.5 KB · Views: 87
Your speed density tab seems pretty messed up. It looks like the whole table needs to come down a bit specially at idle and that could be what's causing this issue. I'd have someone help with that VE table.
 
Your speed density tab seems pretty messed up. It looks like the whole table needs to come down a bit specially at idle and that could be what's causing this issue. I'd have someone help with that VE table.

The VE table might be its own issue, but considering it didn't change before this started, and the car is randomly running lean and dieing or running rich without any changes, I'd say that rules out the VE Table being the cause the problem.

The inconsistency of the problem and the fact it sprung up out of nowhere leads me to believe it's a hardware or sensor issues, not the tune itself.
 
Still can't look at the log for a few more hours, Try locking the car in open loop and see if your issues persist. Locking in open loop takes the narrowband sim out of the equation and just assumes your fuel settings are correct, even if your AFRs are reading too lean or too rich, if it goes from swinging up and down to being consistent then you know that something in your closed loop operation is causing the problem. I had an o2 sensor die on me and THANKFULLY I had my laptop in the car to lock it in open loop so I could make it home and swap sensors.
 
Still can't look at the log for a few more hours, Try locking the car in open loop and see if your issues persist. Locking in open loop takes the narrowband sim out of the equation and just assumes your fuel settings are correct, even if your AFRs are reading too lean or too rich, if it goes from swinging up and down to being consistent then you know that something in your closed loop operation is causing the problem. I had an o2 sensor die on me and THANKFULLY I had my laptop in the car to lock it in open loop so I could make it home and swap sensors.

Ooooooh good idea thanks!
 
That SD table might be why your O2 sensor failed, plus global is too close to 0 (-32) for 1000cc injectors. Somewhere in the -50s would make more sense

you should get it in the ballpark very soon after you change the o2 sensor if thats your plan/issue rather than continuing to dump that much fuel on a new sensor



My car would hate me if my timing table looked like yours.......

E85?
 
Last edited:
Still can't look at the log for a few more hours, Try locking the car in open loop and see if your issues persist. Locking in open loop takes the narrowband sim out of the equation and just assumes your fuel settings are correct, even if your AFRs are reading too lean or too rich, if it goes from swinging up and down to being consistent then you know that something in your closed loop operation is causing the problem. I had an o2 sensor die on me and THANKFULLY I had my laptop in the car to lock it in open loop so I could make it home and swap sensors.

Tried it, no change. Does that 100% rule out the o2 sensor as the problem?
 
Unplug the sensor for a test Erik.
"This is a Test, only a Test"
 
Sounds like a tune issue, not the sensor itself two go bad back to back, possible but sounds unlikely.
 
Erik.. finally got a chance to look at your log. a lot of questions.
1. Please adjust and fix your TPS (This can be done with the car off).
2. Your global fuel should be -57.8% like was previously mentioned if you are running 1000cc injectors.
3. Change your ALS/Knock from 3250 to 3k and 35% instead of 65%.
4. Please copy and paste your Min octane table into your MAX octane table.. that max octane table..... just no.
5. Why is your base tip in tps adjust so high? I've never really seen anyone mess with this table much.

@GST with PSI. @bastarddsm I don't do speed density.. I'm wondering if some of the advice I've been suggesting is only effective for someone MAF based. I'm not seeing a consistent cycling of the front o2 and I'm watching the fuel trims spike as well.. I can't read the SD table to find out if the SD table is a compensation for the incorrect global/deadtime settings. Kyle I'm only asking for your opinion on this as I see Erik as a large contributor to our community, I do enjoy his channel and the stuff he puts out. It'd be a shame if he couldn't make anymore dsm videos because it won't run right :p
 
I swapped to SD a few weeks ago and poured a ton of time into my setup and thoroughly understanding it...........for his global to be what it was, AND most of the table in the 90s, its just pouring on an insane amount of fuel. The idle #s are way high too.
 
I will try to fire up the laptop and look. I have been on SD for 3 years. I am not an expert but had my car running pretty good. I could use help myself though, to be honest, and probably will ask when she is back up and running soon. (crossing fingers)
 
It’s not as complicated as people make it out to be. The base ve settings in link will have just about any car running and driving.

Why is it that when someone’s car is having major issues it never fails that someone points out a tps that’s not perfect? If it triggers the idle circuit when closed and reads over 75% wot it’s not causing any problem.




How is the map sensor connected? Is it wired directly to the ecu harness or through a ecmlink maf cable?
 
Its very simple once you understand it, its when you dont understand it that its exactly what people make it out to be.

Put in the time if you really want it, thats the easy part. So worth it.


Cant be sure, but I dont think he was saying the TPS was the issue, he was just trying to help in pointing out some of the things that need attention going forward
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top