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Newer dyno numbers 728.22whp 590.93wtq BC272

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Nice numbers.....Forget the drag radials n go right for the qtp's you'll be able to put more power down earlier...there is a guy named Bryan that does cryo treated axels too ,stop playing around with autozones
 
Nice numbers.....Forget the drag radials n go right for the qtp's you'll be able to put more power down earlier...there is a guy named Bryan that does cryo treated axels too ,stop playing around with autozones
Thanks I spoke with brian on two occasions and he knows what he is doing. I will contact him soon and get it done I heard his axles are the real deal from more sources than one! Thanks again for reminder:thumb:
 
Can't wait to see what she'll do in the 1/2 should be fast,you'll be getting your aero down next...haha
yeah I am still waiting on the injustice to correct itself. I was on the list since last year to bump me wasn't right. yeah if I get in she should do north of 170mph here is a pull I did one night at a local circle track at wastegate boost pressure 22psi. Maxed the speedo out just imagine that pull @ 40psi!:sneaky: get a glimps it won't be up here long I don't show this one much.


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Never had oem axles that I know of but I need to replace drivers side one so looking for some good ones as we speak. .
 
Kel. Dude, stay alive ok? I know that YOU know every single nut and bolt in that front end but things with 4 wheels going that fast spook me. Especially a factory car thats chassis wasnt designed to handle those speeds. Anything goes off/wrong and bro, you dont get a second chance. Ok, im old(33), i know that. But i bet you got kids and all too. Just keep that shit in mind.
The only thing ive ever trusted past 150mph was something built from the factory to do 200mph: my bike. Any rider will tell you its actually safer going fast on a bike than in a car. Unless you dont have a steering damper, hellllllo tank slapper!

Other than the lecture, that does look fun as hell!!!! What an adrenaline rush. Fastest ive had mine up to was 120. Had way way more left but nahhhhh. Maybe on an old air strip but not on a highway with all the variables. Bad ass car dude. The half mile or standing mile would be perfect for you with a taller 5th


Edit: I missed the part where you said you were on a track. Doh! Still, rollcage is on your list still right?
I think mitsu had a 0 star crash test rating LOL
 
Kel. Dude, stay alive ok? I know that YOU know every single nut and bolt in that front end but things with 4 wheels going that fast spook me. Especially a factory car thats chassis wasnt designed to handle those speeds. Anything goes off/wrong and bro, you dont get a second chance. Ok, im old(33), i know that. But i bet you got kids and all too. Just keep that shit in mind.
The only thing ive ever trusted past 150mph was something built from the factory to do 200mph: my bike. Any rider will tell you its actually safer going fast on a bike than in a car. Unless you dont have a steering damper, hellllllo tank slapper!

Other than the lecture, that does look fun as hell!!!! What an adrenaline rush. Fastest ive had mine up to was 120. Had way way more left but nahhhhh. Maybe on an old air strip but not on a highway with all the variables. Bad ass car dude. The half mile or standing mile would be perfect for you with a taller 5th


Edit: I missed the part where you said you were on a track. Doh! Still, rollcage is on your list still right?
I think mitsu had a 0 star crash test rating LOL
I hear ya. Yeah I don't make it a habit only once in a while I head to little talladega and let it rip.

Great job man!!! Keep it up
Thanks!
 
How does it hook on the street?? I remember watching that video of Killians head porting services I can't wait to send my head down to him.
 
Installed the bc276 cams yesterday but in the process damage my 6 bolt kiggly trigger having one shipped overnight along with a new timing belt the bent trigger damaged it as well.:ohdamn:

I believe on race gas you would've been fine at that power level.
I agree but this car being a daily driver it could get very expensive to keep gas in it.:)

Bc276 installed stay tuned for more impressive numbers once fuel line is changed. Follow details here:thumb: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/bc276-installed.482079/#post-153446131

Mission accomplished!! Finally reach over 700whp!! The fuel collapsed at 6500rpm. The kenne belle boost a pump did its thing on stock lines. The next upgrade will be to see how upgrading the feul lines affect horsepower above 6500rpm. this is with the new pte 6266 gen2 .
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Upgraded my fuel feed line to -6 completely from the sending unit to the fuel filter and -6 from the filter to the rail. I also sent the fic 2150s in to be cleaned and checked. One thing I noticed during the fuel line upgrade is the golan filter element was collapsed and clogged therefore I did some digging and found that this is common with this fuel filter therefore I upgraded the fuel filter to a prolab 818 with stainless steel 40 micron element. the injectors will be back in my possession next Thursday possible dyno next weekend.

Here is link to the goland issue post #21 mine looked just like this one! http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/my-head-hurts-fuel-issues-again.399782/
 
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Keltalon. You need to be very careful using 40 micron element. That is not fine enough to filter the deposit from the gas tank. If your gas tank is not perfectly free of deposit, you will need to use a 10 micron fuel filter if you are running e85. A huge disposable paper filter is preferable since you put a lot of miles on your car. E85 like to lift the chalky deposit off the tank and clog up injectors. The chalky deposit will easy flow through the 40 microns filter element and make it to the injectors. I seen the chalky deposit clogded up different sets of injectors on my friends' car. RC 1000cc, RC 1200cc, PTE 1200cc, PTE 1600cc, FIC HZ 1200cc, RCI Bosch 1650cc, RCI Lucus 1200cc are extremely prone to clogging up due the the chalky deposit if you are running a 40 micron filter element. PTE 1000cc which are Rochester 1000cc have a big build in filter at the inlet that is less likely to clog. The Lucus 1200cc, RC 1000cc, and RC 1200cc have tiny built in filter elements at the inlet that will get caked up with the chalky deposit if you are using the 40 microns filter and a nasty tank. I don't see a build in filter on the FIC HZ Bosch style injectors which make them ultra prone to freezing up if too much deposit go into the injectors. I personally observed RCI Bosch 1650cc, FIC Hz 1200cc, and RCI Lucus 1200cc injectors froze up from deposit. When they froze up, the engine sounded like a cylinder is dead. The frozen injectors are not completely dead. You will need to send them to FIC or RCI for cleaning. FIC and RCI both have great customer service and turn around time. There is no excuse not to get your injectors clean on a regular basis. Most people run one wideband on their car so it is impossible to know which cylinder is running lean. If you have that annoying knock count that you can not figure out what causes it, try checking your injector. You might be running lean in some cylinder and rich in other cylinders.


A few ways to determine if your injectors need cleaning is to look at the global setting, long term fuel trim and injector dead time in ECMLINK. If you have 1000cc and you have to use 650cc in the calculation for global fuel, you might be in trouble somewhere with your fuel system. Likewise, you should not have to use a dead time that is way higher than what other people are running to establish a decent afr at idle. If your LTFT is a 20-30% off your previous log, you might want to check your fuel system for clog.

Get some back up filter element too. There is nothing more annoying than having to wait for the filter element to get in so you can go racing.
 
Thanks killa I will stick with the 10 micron paper element and just change it often. Spooling dubb told me the same thing earlier this week about the 10 micron paper element. Thanks fellas:thumb:
 
Kelton: You have convinced me to stick with my Crower 272s. You made more power than im looking for and did it on BC 272s. Thank you! Just cut down the time frame and saved 150 bucks.

Tomorrow i send my head to SIM for some love.
 
Hey seamus man i was wondering when you was going to chime in! Yeah I am trying to do things for the benefit of the boards and that is do it in steps and when someone reads my posts they can say "I now know the limits on this part or that part and since all I want to make is x amount of horsepower I know this will work for me" I have two more steps before I am done and that is to upgrade the fuel lines and see just how much the bc272 can give me and then upgrade to the prototype, for dsm not evo, bc276 and see what that gives me and then I am done upgrading for power that is. I will after all said and done focus on brakes, axles and a roll cage for various drag, 1/2 mile and time attacks events! stay tuned.
Congrats kels! Pretty micj exactally where i am, prototype 276 as well. I'm looking into the 66/86 hx40 compressor right now hehehehe :sneaky:
Marco has a good deal for me on a street smim i might pick up in a month or so. Heh
 
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Congrats kels! Pretty micj exactally where i am, prototype 276 as well. I'm looking into the 66/86 hx40 compressor right now hehehehe :sneaky:
Marco has a good deal for me on a street smim i might pick up in a month or so. Heh
Those bc276 and that magnus will be a match made in heaven!
 
Keltalon. You need to be very careful using 40 micron element. That is not fine enough to filter the deposit from the gas tank. If your gas tank is not perfectly free of deposit, you will need to use a 10 micron fuel filter if you are running e85. A huge disposable paper filter is preferable since you put a lot of miles on your car. E85 like to lift the chalky deposit off the tank and clog up injectors. The chalky deposit will easy flow through the 40 microns filter element and make it to the injectors.
So Killa on pump gas should I use a 10 micron or a 40 micron element?

Upgraded my fuel feed line to -6 completely from the sending unit to the fuel filter and -6 from the filter to the rail. I also sent the fic 2150s in to be cleaned and checked. One thing I noticed during the fuel line upgrade is the golan filter element was collapsed and clogged therefore I did some digging and found that this is common with this fuel filter therefore I upgraded the fuel filter to a prolab 818 with stainless steel 40 micron element. the injectors will be back in my possession next Thursday possible dyno next weekend.

Here is link to the goland issue post #21 mine looked just like this one! http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/my-head-hurts-fuel-issues-again.399782/
Wow Kels you're right that filter is straight garbage!
 
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FIC recommended that I use Fuelab's 6-micron fiberglass filter with the E98 I'm using versus the 10-micron paper or 40-micron stainless filters. I had seemingly been running the 10-micron paper element for a couple years before I ended up having an injector clog up last month at the track causing a cylinder to go lean, blow up the headgasket, and I ended up going into the wall. I'll take FIC's recommendation.
 
Just got my injectors back and they really benefited from a good old fashion cleaning. Just to clarify the FIC High Z does have a filter inside the injectors. I am now ready to shoot for the moon!
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LOL
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Okay this week I am going back to the dyno ! After the fuel line upgrade and the cam upgrade the car is definitely putting out more than the last dyno session of 728whp for sure.! I am curious.:D
 
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Okay this week I am going back to the dyno ! After the fuel line upgrade and the cam upgrade the car is definitely putting out more than the last dyno session of 728whp for sure.! I am curious.:D

Alright! :sneaky: I think we're all curious... Good luck! :D

And just to clarify, you went with the -6 fuel line and NOT the -8... Correct?
 
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