The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

New 2g DSM

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

RenleyX

Proven Member
97
1
Jun 3, 2014
Denver, Colorado
I am looking to buy a 2g GSX . I have always loved the way they look and I want a fun DD.

Most of them around here have 160k miles and are in rough shape but driveable.

So my question is = if i get a 160k 2g that is mostly stock...

- are there any big problems i need to look out for?
- are there any parts that always fail or go bad that i might need to replace?


Then on to the mod questions =
- does anyone know of good sport seat replacements for these cars? (ones that slide and fold / lay back)
- i have a set of front and rear Brembo calipers + rotors from a Evo X = could i put them in a 2g?
- I also have a set of 18" evo X Enkei wheels. Will they fit a 2g gsx?


Thanks guys!
 
Wheels will fit without issue, not sure about the evo X rotors/brembos. As for maintenance I'd just plan on going through the motor if it's in rough shape like you say. At the very least I'd do all the timing components. Not to sound like Negative Nancy but it is going to be really hard to find any DSM with 160k that you can count on to DD right after you buy it.
 
Ok cool. Thats good news about the wheels. :)

As for the engine - what do you mean by 'go through the engine' ? Do you mean a full rebuild, or do you mean i would just need to replace lots of odd parts?

The particular car i am looking at is actually a talon tsi awd - and it seems to run really smooth. shifts and steering feel perfect... engine runs without odd noises...
 
I think, and correct me if I'm wrong, he means go through change the timing belt if needed or if you don't know when it was last changed, make sure the timing is correct, also I'd change all the fluids and other belts but that's just me.
 
As to the wheels and brakes they will work fine. Evo x brakes need a 18" rim so evo x is perfect. However the front brakes need an adaptor and not the normal adaptor as the evo 789 guys need an adaptor to run the evo x brakes up front. Rears are still a bolt on.

Cyoher auto do seats and brackets for most cars and harnesses so check them out for seats.

Normally when you buy a new car nl(new used car) ;-) you shouod do a full service and if no receipts do the timing and water pump change to know its done.

Issues really are rust on front strut towers and underneath depending on location. Other then that its pretty reliable. Check to see if anything has been hacked about
 
Thanks! I will do the timing and water pump stuff

Those seats I am assuming are the Cipher seats right? If so, they will do perfectly :)

The struts make a squishy squeaking noise when going over bumps and the ABS light is stuck on...

As for the evo x rotor/caliper deal - is there an adapter kit someplace or is it a custom part i need to fabricate?
 
Yes cipher do lots of seats so pick your budget and style and enjoy.

The caliper brackets i am not sure about as i dont know anyone in here thats used evo x brakes. There might be someone on the evo forums but that will require the galant knuckles still and thats getting expensive so maybe go see a fabricator or machinest and get them ti make a bigger bracket for your oem knuckles. Will save a few hundread dollars and time.
 
The struts making a squeek could be a bushing or similer so you will have to play around ti find that im afraid.
 
Ok, cool. Very helpful stuff !

I will update everyone if the sale goes through tomorrow. Otherwise i will still be looking. :p
 
Hey there everyone, I just bought a 1995 Eagle Talon Tsi with AWD.

And I am in need of LOTs of education.

So links and comments and suggestions are very welcome :)

Here is my list of needs and I would be VERY thankful for any help you guys can send my way

The car runs good but has some issues. Can anyone talk to any of these issues?

- SRS light stays on. Ideas why?

- The boost falls off at max RPM, power is lost when holding gas pedal down. Whats going on? Boost leak? Turbo going dead? other?

- the sunroof does not work. Well, the button does not do anything, so i dunno if its the sunroof motor or the switch or what. What goes bad on those most often?

- AC blows but never gets really cold... is this car a 're-charge AC' kinda car, or does it need a new compressor or what?

- the back hatch rattles, especially going over bumps. Is this just a need for new weather stripping? It seems to open and close fine...

- brakes wobble a bit when braking. They have great stopping ability but if you are coming to a gentile stop it feels like the rotors are 'wobbly'

- the speedo does not work. Is this a simple fix of the speed sensor?



Again, I am not expecting 100% perfect answers that instantly fix my issues.

But if you guys can at very least point me in the right direction that would be really helpful, thanks!
 
As far as the AC goes does the car have a front mount intercooler? If so that might be one reason it's not cooling like it should. And when you step on the gas do the rpm's dip before it revs up?
 
You can check to see if the speed sensor is connected. It's at the back of the engine bay near the bottom between the rear motor mount/roll stop.
 
Ok, the car has a side intercooler

and i am still looking for the speed sensor

i also think i might have an idea about the brakes. The rotors are oddly rusted on only one have the circle of the rotor. so that makes sense it would grip then slip on slow deacceleration. the pads look good, i think the car must have been sitting for a while...

still tearing it apart. :)

got all the panels out, the seats out and the hood and fenders and bumper off.

once all the parts are out, its off to paint for the panels and new carpet and headliner for the car.

woot!

these cars are (so far) fun to work on :)
 
These cars are awesome to work on, just make sure you arm yourself with proper knowledge before attempting a task. Can't tell you how many times I just dive into a repair without researching it and then find myself stumped flipping through my service manual for hours :p
Oh yeah, get a service manual! I have a Haynes one and it's fantastic, they're available pretty cheap and the factory service manuals are available here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/download-a-2g-service-manual.324090/
And here's the maintenance guide(s): http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-maintenance-guide.476550/
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/maintenance-schedule.239375/
Does the car still have the stock turbo? My stock T25 always ran out of steam at the top end.
Also, it's great to see someone buy a car and instantly want to learn more about it. Best of luck to you!
 
*grimace*.... I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but first and foremost when getting into 2G DSM's with the 4G63T you have to understand one terrible fact about them: They have crap thrust bearings in them. This is the primary cause of the dreaded Crank Walk. Its when your thrust bearing (the one in the center of your crank that keeps the crank from moving forward and back in it's cradle) craps out and your crank throws itself out of the cradle and through your engine block. This is most prevalent in the 1995 model and gets less frequent through the years until it is practically gone in the 1999 thanks to an improved thrust bearing. Crank walk can happen at 10k miles or 300k miles. So now that you are the proud owner of the worst model year for this affliction you should start watching your clutch. If your clutch ever sticks to the floor on heavy acceleration then you know you are close (your crank shifts forward and pulls the clutch with it).

So now the good news. There are multiple ways to combat this. Revised thrust bearings can be put in for one. Or you can do what I did and scrap the 4G63 for the 4G64 (same block, different crank, taller deck). No matter what you do, just remember that you have a ticking time bomb and when it goes, it will take your block with it. Mine started at 140k shortly after i bought it. I bought it knowing that i was doing a full rebuild.

As for your other problems:

SRS Light: check all your connections. If that fails find a computer that can check SRS codes.

Throttle Cut: Sounds like your computer is cutting throttle. This can be any number of things and requires some diagnostics. If its only at wide open throttle (WOT) then it may be fuel cut.

Sunroof: Pull your headliner off and get a 12v battery and put it on the motor. If it moves its good and you probably have a bad connection. If not, junk.

A/C: It's a 20 year old car. check the pressure first. if its low then leak test with dye. It may be as simple as a recharge. 20 yrs old.

Hatch: check your bump stops, they may need adjusted. Cheap fix, throw in a rubber spacer.

Brakes: sounds like warped rotors (assuming thats what you mean by wobble). if its the rust, then just get them turned, or just scrap them and get new ones.

Speedo: check the connection, replace if necessary. The sensor is on the transmission, behind the trans mount bracket with the number 087 printed on it.
 
Ok, here is were I am at ..

- I downloaded the manuals (thanks for the link!)

- the car has its stock turbo

- the turbo falls off while WOT in a single gear. If i shift up to the next gear then the boost increases again, and again until i hit the top of 5th gear. It seems to work fine, I think it might just be a crappy turbo...

- the clutch pedal does not stick, it seems to work fine.

- the speedo connection is ok, so i am guessing its the gear in the transmission that is worn or broken..

- I am going to check the AC, but i bet the compressor is dead...

- i will try the 12v battery + sunroof motor tonight, thanks!

- I realize now that asking about the rattling was silly. I have stripped the car totally. The panels, doors and interior and hatch are all off and being stripped and prepped for paint.

- brakes, i am now certain the rust is part of the problem. but likely new rotors will be needed at some point.

- the SRS will likely need to be checked by someone who can run the code.

Thanks guys!

We are making great progress on the car. But the most likely outcome is that the motor needs to be rebuilt and possibly the speedo gear in the transmission needs to be replaced too.

Maybe late this year if someone is selling a fully built engine I can buy it from them ;)

I will update you after I check all the stuff you guys mentioned
 
I wonder... do you think my old stock evo X front intercooler could be made to fit this car?
 
Anything can be made to fit anything with the right parts and expertise. As for direct bolt up, I doubt it. The two cars have a different chassis. It would likely take some custom made brackets to get it to mount up. There may be someone on this forum though who as done it.
 
Anything can be made to fit anything with the right parts and expertise. As for direct bolt up, I doubt it. The two cars have a different chassis. It would likely take some custom made brackets to get it to mount up. There may be someone on this forum though who as done it.

That is kinda what I was thinking.

Does anyone know of any build threads that talked about using a Evo intercooler for a front mount?
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top