New 1G products coming soon

Posted by 99gst_racer, Jun 4, 2017

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  1. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    Coloma, Michigan
    Hey guys,

    I've had a chance to prototype a few new 1G products lately, and I wanted to chime in to share and also to gather some opinions. I still need to test this stuff on a few cars before it's available. But once available, I will have ads in the Freelancer section.

    I'm working on a 1G rear upper control arm. These will offer a greater adjustment range and also save around 1.5 lbs weight on the car. These are similar to the Afco DIY kits that some people have been using. The differences are that my arms will have a stronger tube, a much better heim joint, and properly fitting standoffs that won't require modification. The inboard end will feature a chromoly, teflon-lined heim. The outboard end will be a very nice Moog tie rod end (booted and zirked). The tube itself is a large OD extruded aluminum tube. Very strong due to it's hex shape, and reasonably lightweight as well. Pricing will probably be around $200 shipped for the set.

    20170531_204432_zps8uhqjnpz.jpg

    20170604_175140_zps5ho3a78n.jpg



    I'll also be offering a 1G active toe eliminator kit. These will feature a chromoly, teflon-lined heim. I'll also be including 4 small round caps to use to weld over the factory bolt holes. I'm hoping to be around $150 shipped for the kit, so reasonably competitive.

    20170603_152235_zpslbhr47o4.jpg

    20170603_175541_zpsehgruwjp.jpg



    And last but not least, I'll be jigging up a 1G rear subframe in the coming weeks. I'll be designing and building a prototype tubular rear subframe very soon. And there will be options for a 1G rearend or 3000GT rearend. I'm very much looking forward to this project. I hope some of you guys still want something like this.

    Anyway, that's all I have for now. Feel free to post any suggestions or opinions you may have. I welcome any constructive criticism. And if there's another 1G rearend product you want, let me know.

    Thanks!
     

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    My DSM:
    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

    609.8 whp   541.2 lb/ft
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  2. Geeb

    Geeb Proven Member

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    Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
    Sick man

    So glad after all these years still new gear breakin out of the wood work..

    Way to go boss.
     
    My DSM:
    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    Drag Race Build

    GT35   manual
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  3. 19gsx91

    19gsx91 Proven Member

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    Walworth, New York
    I'm definitely interested in the control arms! looks good
     
    My DSM:
    1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

    Street Build

    292 whp   264 lb/ft
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    99gst_racer likes this.
  4. Puller

    Puller Proven Member

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    Rochester, New York
    I'd be interested in a tubular subframe so long as you can retain a rear swaybar.
     
    My DSM:
    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    Street Build

    14b   manual
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  5. Vegas smith

    Vegas smith Proven Member

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    Houston, Texas
    Sweet. Go ahead and sign me up for the tubular subframe. And who do I make that $150 check to?
     
    My DSM:
    1993 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    Street Build

    16g   manual
    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD (sold)

    16g   manual
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    iugrad92turbo and 99gst_racer like this.
  6. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    Retaining the rear sway bar will definitely be an option.
     
    My DSM:
    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

    609.8 whp   541.2 lb/ft
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    dsmspickdad likes this.
  7. Puller

    Puller Proven Member

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    Rochester, New York
    I'd be curious to see how you do it. I've been kicking the idea around for a bit but I always gave up at the lower control arm swaybar mounting situation. Thanks for even putting any effort into the 1g stuff. Even though many moved on to Evo's and GTR's and such, there's still a few bitter 1g graybushes like me that refuse to conform. "Get off my lawn you kids!"
     
    My DSM:
    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    Street Build

    14b   manual
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  8. gsxeclipse102

    gsxeclipse102 Proven Member

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    carmel, New York
    Ill deff take a tubular subframe. By any chance will you ever consider building a front subframe also? Also rear lower control arms with sway bar attachment would be nice :sneaky:
     
    My DSM:
    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    Street Build

    GT35   manual
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  9. yokotabrat

    yokotabrat Proven Member

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    Northglenn, Colorado
    My DSM:
    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    12.705 @ 107.660 MPH
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  10. DetroitStroker

    DetroitStroker Proven Member

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    Joined Dec 22, 2012
    Detroit, Michigan
    X2 on a front subframe!
     
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  11. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    Sorry guys, I have no plans to do a front subframe at this point.
     
    My DSM:
    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

    609.8 whp   541.2 lb/ft
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  12. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    Thanks for the link. Is everyone else having the same problem with a straight upper arm?

    I could definitely offer a bent version. I'd use 4130 tubing, bend it in my bender, and weld in threaded ends. It would have to have a double adjuster for adjustment, and I'd also have it powdercoated. Definitely doable, but it would add around $70 to the final cost.

    As far as options and quality goes, I can offer just about anything - I'm just afraid of going overboard and putting out an overpriced or overly expensive product. I try hard to run that fine line between quality and affordability, but I err on the side of quality in most cases.
     
    My DSM:
    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

    609.8 whp   541.2 lb/ft
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  13. Meech Meimaris

    Meech Meimaris Proven Member

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    Hackensack, New Jersey
    I need everything, can you do the Toe in pieces for me? I can weld but you certainly do the work I am willing to pay for. Would you be interested in doing this for me?

    Thanks
    Meech
     
  14. Puller

    Puller Proven Member

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    Rochester, New York
    I am not 100 percent sure but I think some problems stem from a crappy heim in combination with a full suspension cycle? I have the straight ones currently with no problem, however I haven't gone to Watkins Glen yet so I don't know how they will like track-use. I don't really understand why heim joints are used in the first place other than you can buy them off the shelf with the correct threads for the swag tube used. I rather have an oem style bushing end.
    What if you nix any finishes/powdercoating? Negligible cost difference?
     
    My DSM:
    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    Street Build

    14b   manual
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  15. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    I don't mind offering a welding service for them. But I don't think most people would be interested due to the hassle and costs of shipping the knuckles back and forth.
     
    My DSM:
    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

    609.8 whp   541.2 lb/ft
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  16. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    I assume it has a lot to do with his specific ride height and available suspension travel.

    Heims are great for suspension components. 3-axis movement without bushing deflection. And the threaded connections allow for quick, easy, and infinite incremental arm length adjustment. But you definitely want to avoid the carbon steel, economy heims.

    Nixing powdercoat won't make much difference. It's all in the materials. I spend more money on two tubing ends than I do a threaded suspension tube. Plus the price of 4130 tubing and a 4130 double adjuster. And then a labor cost...
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2017
    My DSM:
    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

    609.8 whp   541.2 lb/ft
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  17. donk

    donk Proven Member

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    Joined Dec 17, 2002
    kalmar, Europe
    How about rear trailing arms like racefab does for the Evo 1-3 ?
     
  18. Meech Meimaris

    Meech Meimaris Proven Member

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    I don't mind shipping back and forth, there is no substitute for competent welding, sent you a PM as well.

    Meech
     
  19. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    I haven't seen it. Got a link?


    On a 1G, the "trailing arm" is built onto the knuckle. For my subframe kits, I planned to cut it off, plate it up, and go tube forward. The downside is that it would require everyone to send me their knuckles for modification.
     
    My DSM:
    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

    609.8 whp   541.2 lb/ft
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  20. gsxeclipse102

    gsxeclipse102 Proven Member

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    Joined Mar 8, 2003
    carmel, New York
    How about the lower rear control arms but with sway bar attachment?
     
    My DSM:
    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    Street Build

    GT35   manual
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  21. 99gst_racer

    99gst_racer Moderator

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    I working on that now. I'll definitely have something for that by the time I have a finished subframe kit. But I'd like to be able to offer those arms prior to getting the subframe done.

    I have materials purchased and I have a 1G in my driveway now. Hopefully I have something to show you guys in the coming weeks.
     
    My DSM:
    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

    609.8 whp   541.2 lb/ft
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    gsxeclipse102 likes this.
  22. donk

    donk Proven Member

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    Bryan 93 likes this.
  23. lasthope05

    lasthope05 Proven Member

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    Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
    Be careful of using adjustable lower control arms if you dyno your car. Most places will place the ratchet straps on the lower arms and I've heard of a few occasions where the the arms snapping in half.

    Also having an option of a bushing would be nice. Heim joints are horrible for street driven/daily drivers. They wear out and get sloppy incredibility fast.
     
    Puller likes this.
  24. pagosa dsm

    pagosa dsm Proven Member

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    pagosa springs, Colorado
    I have rear tubular control arms top and bottom. I also have the heim joint trailing arms. I did it myself years ago. I mounted the sway bar to the trailing arm with out any problems. If you check out my profile and photos you will see my modds.
    Rick
     
    My DSM:
    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    12.084 @ 118.930 MPH
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  25. iugrad92turbo

    iugrad92turbo Proven Member

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    Kalamazoo, Michigan
    Great Paul almost ready for my cross member parts.
     
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