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1G Need some suggestions from experienced transmission builders.

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Stripped
 

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Calling it a day/night..... pulled an all nighter, I don't have many opportunities to mess around in the garage so I put my days to good use. Tranny is completely stripped and cleaned. I even took a stab at the transfer case but I ran into the 100mm stake nut. How the hell do you get that bi*** off? Anyways .... back to Danbury
 

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When you finally get to the point of putting the cases back together (all gear clusters, everything inside), make sure you use the solder method (described in the FSM) to figure what spacers (shim) you need to get proper preload/endplay. Don't do this and your entire rebuild can be for nothing (popping out of gear is typical end result after a few months). Most local tranny shops won't do this due to the extra time it takes and proper spacer unavailability (or they put in the wrong spacer because they don't have the correct one so it works only for the warranty period - I have personal experience on this). {Don't use solder that expands: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/f5m33-rebuild-dsm-fwd-transmission.317077/#post-151770831.} And make sure you replace all the main tapered and ball bearings even if they look ok (they get worn). And any worn syncros/hubs/sliders/keys. And reverse idler gear if teeth are rounded (won't go into reverse without letting clutch out slightly). And worn forks (won't go in gear or can pop out immediately while shifting). And check for worn interlock plate bolt. Also on shift levers the Select Lever Shoe gets worn (won't easily go into selecting gear pair 1-2, or 3-4, or 5-R from another gear pair). Here's a great rebuild guide even though it's for a 2g: http://web.archive.org/web/20100627174759/http://www.twingles.com/ideck/rebuild3/dretranny.htm.
 
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When you finally get to the point of putting the cases back together (all gear clusters, everything inside), make sure you use the solder method (described in the FSM) to figure what spacers (shim) you need to get proper preload/endplay. Don't do this and your entire rebuild can be for nothing (popping out of gear is typical end result after a few months). Most local tranny shops won't do this due to the extra time it takes and proper spacer unavailability (or they put in the wrong spacer because they don't have the correct one so it works only for the warranty period - I have personal experience on this). {Don't use solder that expands: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/f5m33-rebuild-dsm-fwd-transmission.317077/#post-151770831.} And make sure you replace all the main tapered and ball bearings even if they look ok (they get worn). And any worn syncros/hubs/sliders/keys. And reverse idler gear if teeth are rounded (won't go into reverse without letting clutch out slightly). And worn forks (won't go in gear or can pop out immediately while shifting). And check for worn interlock plate bolt. Also on shift levers the Select Lever Shoe gets worn (won't easily go into selecting gear pair 1-2, or 3-4, or 5-R from another gear pair). Here's a great rebuild guide even though it's for a 2g: http://web.archive.org/web/20100627174759/http://www.twingles.com/ideck/rebuild3/dretranny.htm.
Now I see why people don't bother rebuilding the transmission themselves. Finding parts is becoming a problem
 
I'm still waiting to hear back from jacks for an estimate on the ppg box. This manual transmission itself isn't very complex, it's just a very tedious assembly/disassembly. I removed everything and reassembled everything with the clusters assembled to get a feel for the assemble. Technically I can just buy the clusters assembled and just throw them in the case. In my opinion though what your paying extra for someone to do it is money well spent imo. Building an engine is easy in comparison.
 
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