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1G Need some suggestions from experienced transmission builders.

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SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,433
782
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
So since Ive conquered the engine aspect of the dsm I figured Id take a stab at the transmission. Ive invested several 1000 dollars in tools for the engine build side but I dont think im fully equiped for the transmission. I noticed that the bearings in the transmission are clearanced very tightly to the next gear etc so there is very little room to get a tool or splitter in the get the bearing off the shaft. They make a very very nice tool "posi lock" you can buy on amazon but its like 300 dollars. I picked up a standard bearing splitter from harbor freight that comes in a kit for 50 bucks? What are you guys using to remove bearings from the tranny? Ill spend money to do it correctly.
 
I don't have anything to add other than I'm stoked to creep you next epic thread! :D

My tranny is on my list after I'm done my motor in the next week so mos def sub'd.
 
I use a bearing splitter and press to get the gear stacks apart, along with removing the bearings from the intermediate shaft and diff housing. Very often it damages the bearing cage, but if I remove the bearings from the intermediate shaft and center diff, it's because I'm replacing them.

To get the new bearings on an old deep fryer is great. I heat the bearings up in an oil bath and they drop right on.
 
I use a bearing splitter and press to get the gear stacks apart, along with removing the bearings from the intermediate shaft and diff housing. Very often it damages the bearing cage, but if I remove the bearings from the intermediate shaft and center diff, it's because I'm replacing them.

To get the new bearings on an old deep fryer is great. I heat the bearings up in an oil bath and they drop right on.
thats a good idea....the transmission im messing with is in great condition overall but some of the bearing are showing some wear. I have a sand blaster to get the cases cleaned up. When im ready to go ill be sure to document everything if anyone is interested.
 
I don't blast anything, unless it's with soda. Sand and glass are horrible media to clean complicated shape parts. It always hides in some tight space until you run the part.
I actually use soda or glass beads for aluminum.....I have the kits they sell at harbor frieght
 
I also use a standard bearing splitter and a press. Some of the tighter gears are removed in pairs, such as 3rd gear and the 3/4 hub with the sleeve for 4th. Also, the small bearing on the input shaft is tough to remove. I typically cut two grooves in it with a dremel, then the bearing splitter can get a better grip on the grooves. +1 on the hot plate, set it to 250*F and most parts just slide on. Don't get them too hot or it can begin to weaken the part.
 
For blasting, I use 36 grit aluminum oxide to take the heavy scale off the transmission case, then #8 glass bead to do finish blasting of the case. I also use the glass #8 to do clean-up work on gearsets.

For hand tools, a double-hook seal puller, roll pin punches (3/16" will be your most used), 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 24mm and 36mm sockets, magnetic pen pickup tool, pick tools, prybars, punches or air hammer with punch tool, 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrenches, dial or digital micrometer, digital calipers, 0.062" diameter solder, 3/32" diameter solder, side cutters, trans lube (or vasoline, or thick gear oil), dead blow hammers, 32oz smooth face/ball peen hammer, small sledge hammer (2#-5# range), needle nose pliers, snapring pliers, etc.

You will need a FSM, and access to all the shims for the 5 spots you would be reshimming. Some of the shims are still available from the dealer, and are around $7-$12 each (There are around 130 shims total). I have posted my shim preload specs on this forum as well as numerous others (4Gtuner, galantvr4.org, DSMTuners, etc.) for a general reference.

As for press tools, a simple 12-ton H-frame press (you can swap out the jack for a 20-ton too), OTC 1122 (5th intermediate gear with push puller) and 1123 (input shaft disassembly) splitters and Miller 9647 splitter (quickly disassembles DSM intermediates shaft clusters in 1 push from 2nd gear side) or OTC1130 splitter works too, and OTC 7393 push puller (use with 1122 splitter). These will easily do all the gearset disassembly. I made my own press stands out of steel plate and square tube.

My press stands are made with the following parts:
Short press stand -
upper plate = 5"x5"x0.5" plate
lower plate = 5"x6"x0.5" plate
square tube = 4"x4"x6" tall

Long press stand -
upper plate = 5"x5"x0.5" plate
lower plate = 5"x6"x0.5" plate
square tube = 4"x4"x9" tall

As for bearing race removal, I use a slide hammer with a thread adapter (welded a bolt to a male-to-male union) to a Miller 9664 race remover.

For seal installation, I use Miller MH061400, Miller 8891, Miller MD998321, Miller MB991115 and Miller 8475 installer.

For bearing race installation for the transmission you can use a standard bearing race installer kit.

For removing and installing the shift selector needle bearings, I use Miller 8118 and 8119 tools.

I have numerous installers that are a mixture of Miller, Kent Moore and Rotunda, along with stupid-simple installers like exhaust transitions from the smallest diameter you can find (IIRC 1-5/8") to 3" diameter. I could list numerous ones that make the work alot easier to do.

For gearset assembly I have numerous press tools. These are my most used on DSM stuff - Miller 4401, 4507, 9679, 9666, 9355, 9619, 9625, 9676, 9678, 8481, etc. I have a mixture of Miller, Kent Moore and Rotunda, along with stupid-simple installers like exhaust transitions from the smallest diameter you can find (IIRC 1-5/8") to 3" diameter. I could list numerous ones that make the work alot easier to do.

Tool kits that are helpful and have alot of good tools include parts from Miller 8708 (SRT4 neon kits), Miller G238 tools and NV5600 tool kits, Miller 9675 LX AWD tools, etc. They have gone up in price lately, but just look through on Ebay for any of the Miller numbers I posted above and do some searching.
 
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The input shaft inner tapered roller bearing can sometimes be stubborn, but if you do it very gently you can typically take it off with an OTC 1123 splitter; same goes for the intermediate shaft outer tapered roller bearing.

If they are especially stubborn, I use a modified V-blade air hammer chisel that can fit between the input shaft 1st gear teeth and push the bearing race a bit to get the splitter under the bearing race, or I use my cutoff tool or 4.5" angle grinder cut wheel and I groove the bearing race the whole way around (not too deep to cut it in half) and use the 1123 splitters to remove.

On top of that I otherwise use a Mini-Ductor to heat up the bearing race once the cage and rollers are clipped off and warm it up a little to get it off easily.
 
Going to try this out tmrw....posilock puller 5 ton
 

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Going to try this out tmrw....posilock puller 5 ton

I never liked those. Used them many times, I prefer to use an OTC push puller with jaw attachments, or a simple bearing splitter with a press and press stands.

That Posilock can't get on the lip of the 5th intermediate gear, and it's easier to push the clusters off than pull it off one piece at a time. That tool also will not remove any of the tapered roller bearings easily.
 
I never liked those. Used them many times, I prefer to use an OTC push puller with jaw attachments, or a simple bearing splitter with a press and press stands.

That Posilock can't get on the lip of the 5th intermediate gear, and it's easier to push the clusters off than pull it off one piece at a time. That tool also will not remove any of the tapered roller bearings easily.
I have the otc tool, if it doesn't work to my liking I'll send it back
 
I never liked those. Used them many times, I prefer to use an OTC push puller with jaw attachments, or a simple bearing splitter with a press and press stands.

That Posilock can't get on the lip of the 5th intermediate gear, and it's easier to push the clusters off than pull it off one piece at a time. That tool also will not remove any of the tapered roller bearings easily.
What do You use for a press, I have a 20 ton but the throat isn't wide enough to slide it through when assembled. I'm probably doing it backwards.
 
I have been using my 12-ton H-frame with a 20-ton jack for a decade.

The big thing is using press stands like I mentioned before with the dimensions that I made mine from.
 
I have been using my 12-ton H-frame with a 20-ton jack for a decade.

The big thing is using press stands like I mentioned before with the dimensions that I made mine from.
How the hell does that shaft come off with the hole in it? There is nothing to grab with
 

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How the hell does that shaft come off with the hole in it? There is nothing to grab with
3rd gear and the hub are just sitting there. Press all of it at once going under 3rd gear. I don't have half the stuff Tim has. I just have a collection of plates and I use a couple pieces of I beam as stand offs on the deck of my 20 ton press. I've been doing this for a decade. The only "specialty" tools I have are a set of Lisle lock ring pliers, a 2/3 jaw puller and two cheap bearing splitters. Other than that it's hand tools. I do have a box of old bearing races I use to press or as spacers for stuff while pressing. I've ground off a little of the edge so they don't get stuck in the hole again. Very straightforward stuff.
 
input shaft, you just remove the 5th needle bearing sleeve, then remove the snapring, then press the 3rd/4th gear cluster right off. The intermediate shaft is just remove the snapring by 1st gear, then press the entire cluster off.
 
input shaft, you just remove the 5th needle bearing sleeve, then remove the snapring, then press the 3rd/4th gear cluster right off. The intermediate shaft is just remove the snapring by 1st gear, then press the entire cluster off.
You were right about the puller. All I needed was a bearing splitter and my 20 ton. I fabbed up some block to make it easier to press the gears off. The tapered roller bearing I had to remove the cage then press off.... not as bad as I thought. Lots of parts though
 
More
 

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