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2G Narrow band won't stay on

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lee98talon

10+ Year Contributor
204
4
Sep 16, 2012
Green Bay, Wisconsin
Hi,
I have the basic auto meter narrow band gauge that you could buy at the local parts store (autozone/ o'reilly). This is on a 1997 eclipse gsx.

The issue Im having is when I turn my car on(idling) the narrow band gauge will die. If I just turn my key to the second click the narrow band will stay on forever and show lean.

There are three wires red, purple, black for narrow band gauge. I have the red wire from the gauge tap in to pin 25 on the ecu harrness. Black wire from gauge to pin 92 of the ecu. Purple wire to pin 76 on the ecu.
 
Here's what I got. I have power to the gauge when I turn the key. But gauge turns off after I start up the car. No check engine light for any O2 sensors.
 

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All 3 wires are supposed to be tapped, but in the 1st pic i see a wire nut connecting a black and a yellow wire, where is the rest of that black wire? The 2nd pic, im not even sure what that is showing
 
Yeah it works when I turn to acc and before start. The gauge shows lean.


I used two different splice connectors to connect my wires. One is the red "Butt connector" which I use to extend my wires from the harrness side. Then I used those blue "closed end connector(twist on)" for the "tap" job. I have three wire in the blue closed end connector(twist on). One wire coming from the gauge and the other two are ends of the ecu wires; one on the ecu side and the other is going to harness.

This is an electric autometer gauge with three wires; purple, red, black. Btw.
 
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Yeah it works when I turn to acc and before start. The gauge shows lean.


I used two different splice connectors to
connect my wires. One is the red "Butt connector" which I use to extend my wires from the harrness side. Then I used those blue "closed end connector(twist on)" for the "tap" job. I have three wire in the blue closed end connector(twist on). One wire coming from the gauge and the other two are ends of the ecu wires; one on the ecu side and the other is going to harness.

This is an electric autometer gauge with three wires; purple, red, black. Btw.
Well you may have.figured.it.out, those t taps suck alot they dont always stay connected you should always solder but acually wait does it always work no matter what b4 you start like always? Does it seem like somethings loose? Like flickers n stuff? Put your car to on and shake the hell out of the three wires n see once we rule out bad connections then try grounding differnt places and did the gauge have a schematic ?
 
I tried shaking the three wires but it the gauge didn't bug as much. I'll re-check the wires when I have time. Is it possible to say the gauge it self is bad ?!?
 
Throw it away, and save up for a wideband. Seriously, narrowbands are worthless.
 
Yeah it works when I turn to acc and before start. The gauge shows lean.


I used two different splice connectors to connect my wires. One is the red "Butt connector" which I use to extend my wires from the harrness side. Then I used those blue "closed end connector(twist on)" for the "tap" job. I have three wire in the blue closed end connector(twist on). One wire coming from the gauge and the other two are ends of the ecu wires; one on the ecu side and the other is going to harness.

Wire nuts belong in a house, not on a car. using them to splice into your O2 harness can affect the readings to your ECU. Those and vampire taps are both very bad to use in an automotive environment. They are bad just using them to get power, because they aren't reliable. But they are worse on a sensor line, where they can inject stray capacitances that affect the sensor readings. I would suggest undoing what you have done. If you have to make the cheap meter work, then at least install it correctly soldering and heatshrinking. Give the wirenuts to an electrician.

But really, you should sell the meter, or return it as defective to get your money back, that'd be a start towards having the money to have a proper tuning tool for the car. Something that can read the o2 sensor voltage from the ECU, will not potentially mess up the ECU like those external NBO2 gauges would. It still isn't THAT useful because the o2 sensors aren't accurate, but it is less dangerous. Get a system like DSMLink, and you can actually tune and read your gauges. Just a suggestion.
 
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So it has to be the way you wired it , do you have the diagram that came with it?

Well there are three wires from the gauge. One is for power when you the turn the key. The second wire is for the ground. The third wire is for the sensor reading which in this case is the oxygen sensor. Therefore you go to ecu pin out and read which is which and plug and play. I also went off RRE's write-up ( I think it was RRE)

And yes I will try to rewire my wires the "right way". Otherwise I might just toss the idea away. It was just for smiles and giggles on the winter beater and to fill the gauge pod.
 
Well there are three wires from the gauge. One is for power when you the turn the key. The second wire is for the ground. The third wire is for the sensor reading which in this case is the oxygen sensor. Therefore you go to ecu pin out and read which is which and plug and play. I also went off RRE's write-up ( I think it was RRE)

And yes I will try to rewire my wires the "right way". Otherwise I might just toss the idea away. It was just for smiles and giggles on the winter beater and to fill the gauge pod.
So now where did you wire your power wire ? Did you do it to the ignition? Its not hard just Turn battery off when you do this im sure you know this I hope LOL and use a volt meter to see if its even getting power on the current power wire your useing (put ground cable back on the battery) use a SOLID gound for the volt meter and just test away turn your car on and off see what happens just take the insulation off abit on the wire your testing and dont short anything let me know what happends your gauge could be bad but rule out things one by one


Check fuses also just incase
 
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I'm using pin number 25 on the ecu for my power. The last time i check i got ~5 volts to the wire with i turned my key. I originally grounded the wire to the cig light wireis but then i change it to the ecu sensor ground because i was having this problem. I haven't had any time to mess around with it. I usually will mess around with it during the weekends. And I'll check back. Still have to re-do the wiring and check for voltage at the wire like you said.

I think i have my power wire wrong.
 
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I'm using pin number 25 on the ecu for my power. The last time i check i got ~5 volts to the wire with i turned my key. I originally grounded the wire to the cig light wireis but then i change it to the ecu sensor ground because i was having this problem. I haven't had any time to mess around with it. I usually will mess around with it during the weekends. And I'll check back. Still have to re-do the wiring and check for voltage at the wire like you said.

I think i have my power wire wrong.
There ya go man! Just tap into the ignition test first! / verify a solid.12v connection whats the gauges model number
 
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Your pin out is wrong. Red on the guage goes to 12v power. Not the ecm. Black grounds to the body. Pin 76 is the front o2 sensor wire. It is a medium white wire pin 75 is also white. It is the signal wire for the rear o2
 
I used the "yellow wire" to extending the other end of the white wire on harness wire. Then the "blue wire" is my gauge wire. Then the "white wire" closes to the ecu is the end of the original white wire. All three wire connect to the those twist on connector. Do i have it right ? Im pretty sure that is pin 76. And i have the power wire going to the radio wires and a working ground. My ecu is a stock 1997 eclipse gsx ecu. Maybe it's bad gauge. The gauge has power all the time until i start up my car then it dies out after a minute.
 

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