My first custom turbo. S16->20g

Posted by 93xsg, Oct 12, 2017

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  1. 93xsg

    93xsg Proven Member

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    Note: Always balance your full rotating assembly when modifying a turbo, even if each part is individually balanced. See Justin's post below for a video.

    Just thought I'd share with everyone my latest project.
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    Had an old small 16g sitting around from my old car, so I thought I'd learn how to rebuild them, mess around and make a good steet turbo.
    20170919_163947.jpg

    A small 16g requires machine of the bearing housing to accept the 20g wheel.

    If you have a big/evo 16g this mod is bolt on!
    20170929_163231.jpg

    There's a small recess that the wheel sits into. The s16g has a smaller diameter wheel, hence the machining. Cost $50 locAL machine shop.
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    I used all turbo lab parts. Including mhi rebuild kit, the 7cm evo 3 turbine housing, and a 3" tdo6 cover with 20g wheel.

    The wastegate is a Kinugawa adjustable. It came with like 7 springs too! I wanted to keep this turbo internally gated. I had to drill and tap another hole for the wastegate, and make spacer brackets. So I'd recommend if using this wastegate, to also use Kinugawas cover.
     

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    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 15, 2017
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  2. Spideydsm99

    Spideydsm99 Proven Member

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    Seems really cool man. Keep up the awesome thread!!:hellyeah::applause:
     
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  3. 93xsg

    93xsg Proven Member

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    Thanks Spidey! That's about it for this thread. I still have to finish making spacer brackets for the wastegate. (Have 5 washers on each right now LOL). But Ill post results of how she performs when I finish the car! Hopefully only a few more weeks. I've had it 5 years now, never driven it haha :p
     
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  4. JusMX141

    JusMX141 Moderator

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    Was the bearing housing recess actually cut in the one pic you posted? Bearing housing groove should be 69.2mm on any wheel with a 68mm exducer...if it's cut in that photo it's way too close to the wheel.

    If you use an angled T04B/TA49 actuator bracket it gives a lot more clearance between the turbo and radiator...although I'm not sure how it would work with that bulky billet actuator. The Garrett actuator is a bit more compact and an be mounted "higher" on the cover so it's not hanging off the front and interfering with things like cooling fans.

    FPGreen-1.JPG

    Also, always get the assembly balanced when replacing one or both of the wheels if you want it to last- especially on something as small as a TD05H turbo that reaches shaft speeds of 150k. I've balance-checked assemblies that needed no additional correction at all and I've balanced checked some that were out so bad the vibration would've caused the shaft to break...and these were with all new parts. This video explains stackup unbalance a little better and can often mean the difference between a turbo that works properly and one that fails before the first oil change:

     
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  5. 93xsg

    93xsg Proven Member

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    Hey Justin,
    Thanks for all the info!

    I had asked the machine shop (not a turbo specific) to match the tolerance gap on the old wheel.
    Just broke out the micrometer, got 67.95 for the wheel and 68.45 for the bearing housing -.-

    As far as the wastegate goes, she clears everything just fine! Have about 4 fingers between the wastegate and smack dab in the middle of the radiator. Should work perfect with the slim fans I'll get.

    I was trying to find info on a stock wastegate that would work, but gave up after not finding much info, and locating this one. And I didn't want to do a bunch of fabbing. After all was finished, I had to drill and tap one hole, and grind about 1/16th off the cover to make this one work.

    And the balancing, all the research I did, led me to believe it was a pretty good shot to not have the entire assembly balanced. (As each piece has been individually balanced). I see now exactly why this is important! And I'll add a not to my first post just incase anyone else attempts. Thanks man. Pmd you as well about balance/machining :)
     
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  6. ec17pse

    ec17pse Freelancer

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    nice work, I modified my e3 16G and make a bracket for my forge motorsport actuator to give me more room and to clock the comp housing down, so i know the work involved and its a great idea for more space and to get rid of that J pipe IMAG0583_1.jpg
     
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  7. 93xsg

    93xsg Proven Member

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    Dude, that's the sickest 16g I've ever seen! Love how you clocked it and added the outlet. Nice fab work on the wastegate as well. I really want to learn how to weld soon. Too many other things going on at the moment to invest :p
     
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  8. ec17pse

    ec17pse Freelancer

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    Thanks, it is a oretty unique setup compared to most, while i would have got a 20g comp housing i did not want to use a 20g wheel at the time, so this was what i came up with, makes it tighter and less piping and as i said gets rid of that crappy J pipe which uses alot of space! The bracket for the actuator was kinda cool to do as i had zero refference to follow and i just used a 16g aftermarket actuator and went from there, i had to make sure it did not bind though upon opening. The turbo is completely custom from start to finish,

    I like seeing custom ideas on turbos if its for a reason like ours, great to see what peoples minds come up with
     
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  9. lasthope05

    lasthope05 Proven Member

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    Nice! Im stealing that WG mount idea since I need to clock the compressor cover also. ;)
     
  10. 93xsg

    93xsg Proven Member

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    Years ago, seeing other peoples builds and custom fab on this site, is really what inspired me to get where I am today. Still have a lot to learn but it's a great journey.

    I've always hated the j-pipe anyways. bolting to the turbo outlet has always caused me trouble -.- And youre totally right about how much space it takes up. I was unable to run 2 fans when I had the white car in my profile pic.

    Howd you test the travel of the arm, to check for binding? Mines so damn stiff its hard to move at all haha. Reckon I could take out the spring or something. But mine's a pretty straight shot.
     
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  11. ec17pse

    ec17pse Freelancer

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    To test it i simply put an air line on the nipple and tested it to 30psi to see how far back it sent and i tweeked it from there, all though my first attempet was damn close i only had to do a small twist for it to be perfect.

    Ever since i wanted to run a 16g i was always aginst the J pipe! No way was i ever going to run one so i had no choice to modify it or pay alot more for a turbo i wont be ready for in years LOL
     
    My DSM:
    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

    Road Race Build

    175 whp   180.1 lb/ft
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  12. ec17pse

    ec17pse Freelancer

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    Mine of the OP's? Either way we need patent fee's please haha
     
    My DSM:
    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

    Road Race Build

    175 whp   180.1 lb/ft
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  13. lasthope05

    lasthope05 Proven Member

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    Yours, haha. I was just going to weld a stand off on the cover but your way is much cleaner/reversible with the stock waste gate.
     
  14. ec17pse

    ec17pse Freelancer

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    yeah i considered that aswel but wanted it smooth as so i used the factory M6 bolt holes which does make it alot nicer
     
    My DSM:
    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

    Road Race Build

    175 whp   180.1 lb/ft
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