Multiple headgasket failures

[stann999]

I have a 6 bolt with a 7 Bolt head. Arp studs and MLS gaskets. Fp black with interior Al waste gates. I've had multiple head gasket leaks now where the cylinder pressure starts pushing coolant after a few hundred miles of hard driving, especially when it's hot outside.

One used cometic failed at 25 psi, now a brand new Mitsubishi MLS failed at 30 psi with a freshly ported and surfaced head.

Will l19 bolts solve this problem?

Could it be minor warpage in my block?

Or is it excessive backpressure from pushing my imbalanced internally gated turbo too far?

Please share your thoughts, opinions and suggestions to help me solve this problem so it doesn't happen again when I install my s200sx-7670 twinscroll t4 turbo and try to hit 35 psi.

 

[MindBlowin03]

I'm not a big fan of mls gaskets personally. I run only Felpro gaskets now with ARPs and never have issues.

 

[donniekak]

First off, check the block for flatness.

How is the car being tuned? Who is tuning it?

Have you done a hydrocarbon test to verify that combustion gas is your issue? I’ve seen lots of cars lose coolant without a headgasket issue.

 

[dustyboner]

Just because i have had so many problems with resurfacing/surface finish and machnie shops in general, im going with
your machine shop didn't do a good enough job or the block needs to be decked.

both the deck and the head should be resurfaced to as smooth as possible. Make sure the machine shop you go to uses torque plates and measures the surface finish with a profilometer so you know its smooth enough.

this quote sums it up:
"“We use a Mitutoya SJ301 profilometer with a tape printout to record Ra finish for each engine build,” Barton says. “If you don’t use this tool you can’t measure how smooth your surface is – you can only guess."

read that whole article HERE

I have found out the hard way, every shop will tell you that its is "good enough".
even when its clearly not

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[chrysler kid]

Are you going over them in 3 passes of 30-60-90 and a final pass after 200 miles. I went the extra step of doing 92 the 4th pass after break in

 

[stann999]

Ya I did the 4th pass as well before and after tuning. The tuner is good - ums in mesa. It may have been the fact that I turned the revised limit to 8k with the housing. But Donnie, you're probably right about the flatness. I just really hope it's not the flatness because I don't want to pull the engine.


This most recent time I managed around 200 miles after tubing and I think around 20 miles with the 8k Rev limit.

 

[stann999]

What is a hydrocarbon test? Like an emissions test or something else? How would I relate it to the problem? Thanks everyone.

 

[1cleangsx]

What is a hydrocarbon test? Like an emissions test or something else? How would I relate it to the problem? Thanks everyone.

A hydrocarbon test checks for combustion gases in your coolant, you could also pressure test your cooling system to see if it holds pressure, if you leak somewhere your system draws air back in as it cools and then has extra pressure in it the next time you drive the car, I had this problem with a weapon r coolant overflow that didn’t come with a tube for the car to draw coolant back from the overflow when it cooled, so it was drawing in air instead of coolant, once I put a little straw in there, burped the system it stopped spitting coolant, I also pressure tested which it passed and torqued my arp headstuds to 110 and never had an issue again

 

[stann999]

Good point. I'll check the coolant overflow bottle. We custom made it with a straw but I think it was pressed in so it may have fallen out.
Then I'll find a place where I can hydrocarbon test the coolant. Then hopefully I won't have to pull the headgasket and check the block.

 

[donniekak]

https://m.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/block-tester/oem-engine-block-tester/391378_0_0

 

[jakk220]

Be sure that you are using a thread chase to clean out the holes in the block where the head studs thread in. Sometimes the all appear even and seated all the way and they are not. I fought 4 head gasket jobs before I figured out my issue.

Ditch the MLS gasket. You must have the block resurfaced for them to seal properly in most cases. I'm running 32psi on my felpro with l19s with no issues. There is also a specific RA spec for the head and block surface to use a MLS.

You should be doing a leakdown test to confirm your head gasket is blown each time. Just take off the coolant cap and check for bubbles when you pressurize the cylinders.

I doubt l19s alone will fix your issue but it wouldn't hurt to have them I suppose.

Make sure you are using ARP uktra torque when torquing the headstuds. The block end goes in dry, and the top threads/nut get the grease. Be sure to torque them down in sequence and make sure you are using a known good torque wrench.

Make sure your block surface is spotless and don't use anything on it other than a razor blade scraper and gasket remover / brake cleaner. Anything else is most of the time unnecessary and can ruin the surface. You need to check the deck for flatness as well with feeler gauges and a straight edge.

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Do not use copper spary on the head gasket

That's all I can think of right now. I fought this same issue before and these are the tips I have learned along the way. Hope it helps.