Mobil 1 syn 10w-30 good for temps under 20f? Oil pressure gauge question

[talontsiboy24]

My motor is a rebuilt 6bolt with around 32k miles on it..Do u think mobil 1 syn 10w-30 should be fine yr round i was thinkin to go thicker in summer time I wanted to bump it up to 15w-50 mobil 1 syn in summer time at least since i do get on it.

Im running a big 16g with moderate mods for now and the motor is pretty much stock but boost is 22-24psi and the car does see wot here and there and lookin at mobil 1 syn 10w-30 material data safety sheet i dont see anything about zinc or even the word zinc in it isnt that bad? what do u guys think?

As for now though its winter time so i wanna put the best in it for good startups but really good protection as i do like to boost in winter to.

 

[talontsiboy24]

Sorry but this is BS, theirs alot more to it than that, besides It's not the Brand... Mobile One

it's ALL GF-4 oils EPA mandated ZDDP (the main anti-ware additive) to less then 800ppm years ago

We all just when over this in another thread when someone posted the PDF above help-save-your-journal-bearing-turbos

To the OP Don't run a 5w-30 oil like said above unless it Never gets above freazing...
Also Mobile One 15w-50 would be the best when it's not extremely cold out...

So mobile 1 syn is no good for cars seeing high rpms and high heat? Not enough zinc? What about Valvoline vr1 racing synthetic would it be better to use then mobil 1? It says: Valvoline racing synthetic is formulated with 25% more zinc for protection passenger car synthetics dont have. Valvolines sapphire blue formula is designed to deliver maximum horsepower and extreme anti-wear protection, including push-rod and flat tappet style engines.

* High zinc/phosphorus for anti-wear protection, including push-rod and flat tappet applications
* Formulated to maximize horsepower
* Track-proven to maintain pressure and protect from foaming
* Recommended for engines burning gasoline and full or partial alcohol fuels
My car is outside 24/7 threw all seasons but it does see high rpms and wot here and there also boost is 22-24psi.

Here is a link to all the info for mobil 1 oils tell me what u guys think=http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

Now i looked at the valvoline vr1 racing synthetic 10w-30 and it shows on the sheet=
HYDROTREATED HEAVY PARAFFINIC BASE OIL >=80-<90%
ALKYLATED PHENOL >=1-<1.5%
ZINC ALKYLDITHIOPHOSPHATE >=1-<1.5%

Now Mobile 1 syn 15w-50 is showing ZINC DITHIOPHOSPHATE < 2.5% but thats thick to run in winter so i think im gonna try the vr1.

 

[DSM1G90]

(wow...should have a race here - 25 more posts on this one topic to make a hundred ....too funny)

 

[gorilla5321]

Forced performance did a great job testing oils its all on there site now great info

 

[talontsiboy24]

I still get a little noise from the valvetrain, but I think the revised lifters helped more than the oil.

I also don't have any burn off issues either. My engine is actually healthy.

I was burning some oil before, but my compression numbers were good. So instead of just pouring in some snake oil or heavier oil, I actually FIXED the problem. New valve stem seals and I was good. If I get an oil leak, I REPLACE the leaking gasket.

I run the correct oil for the lubrication my car needs. I don't try to use my oil to stop leaks, or quite noisy lifters, or do other stuff it really isn't supposed to do. My engine has over 100,000 miles on it in my car. It was a used engine before it went in my car. The tolerances have probably grown a little looser in the bottom end. Plus I'm pushing a small16g pretty hard in my car. I need a slightly heavier weight oil.

The reason I chose to run the Rotella stuff is because of the higher zinc content. I plan to do an oil analysis on it after my next oil change just to see how it's holding up in my car.

Seems like im gonna have to try this Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic!

When i ran mobil 1 syn 10w-30 it turned dark as hell on me i even had a k&n gold performance oil filter and i only had 2k miles on it street car but i did do alot of wot pulls but still it sucks the facts are there and research and its def not stronger then rotella t6! I just got rid of that mobil junk and changed my oil to rotella t6 synthetic 5w-40 cause i heard nothing but good stuff about it so i wanted to give it a try but im only using it since its winter out here cause 5w is low but it has that 40 and tests shown its protects better then 15w-40!

Here is the full information about this oil= http://www-static.shell.com/static/c...rotella_t6.pdf

i got about 5 quarts of it for $27 at walmart tax included!!!

the flashpoints in the oils celcius converted to fahrenheit=

Shell Rotella t6 syn= 435.2f

Amsoil Dominator
5w-20 = 437f
10w-30= 453f
20w-50= 453f

Amsoil 20w-50= 451f

BradPenn=
ow-30= 385f
10w-30 10w-40 10w-50= 400f
20w-50= 420f

Royal Purple flashpoint 400f Royal Purple Racing Oil flashpoint 420f

Castrol Syntec ow20 threw 10w-40= 392f

Mobil 1 syn
15-50= 449.6f
10w-30= 446f
5w-30= 437f
5w-20= 442.4f
0w-40= 446f


Valvoline Fully Synthetic=
ow-20= 428f
5w-20= 429.8f
5w-30 and 10w-30= 433.4f

Valvoline Not Street Legal Synthetic=
5w-30= 460.4f
10w-30= 478.4f
20w-50= 500f

Valvoline vr-1 racing motor oil
10w-30= 429.8f
20w-50= 478.4f

So i see mobil 1 is better in flashpoint then the shell im using but i only plan on using it for winter time and the shell does contain more zinc then the mobil also has a better flashpoint then most oils i stated here and i would still choose bradpenn over mobil 1 even though mobil has a higher flashpoint because it has more zinc in it and forccedperformance even said its really good to use. Amsoil 100% synthetic and racing oils are expensive and 20w-50 oils are too thick for winter time. My car is not heavily modified or built motor so no reason to run racing oil either.




Rotella t6 5w40 it's API certified SM so it's fine to use , they just market this oil more for the truck industry being they have this market tied up pretty good. they don't call it million mile oil for nothing, this oil withstands 35+ psi of boost and 18:1 compression ratio just imagine the stress thats put on the bearings.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Wasn't this thread marked as "Resolved" over a week ago? I see it's not anymore

 

[MY1GDSM]

Holly edit on the first post... .

 

[MY1GDSM]

When i ran mobil 1 syn 10w-30 it turned dark as hell on me i even had a k&n gold performance oil filter and i only had 2k miles on it street car but i did do alot of wot pulls

Contrary to what a lot of people think when a oil starts to turn dark it not going bad but it's the containments & particulates being suspended in the oil so they don't build up...

I'm not sure what's up with you editing all your posts but just make another post Man... It's confusing to try to answer questions that are constantly changing.

No offense but I really don't think your understanding all what your posting (in this or the 5 other oil threads you started (or posted in) in the last two weeks) Also theirs a lot more to oils then flash-points. Besides your going to be having bigger problems then the oil vaporizing or the vapor burning off if you oil temps are that high to begin with...

 

[Rockyp]

Contrary to what alot of people think when a oil starts to turn dark it not going bad but it's the particulates being suspended in the oil so they don't build up...

That's true. I use nothing but royal purple products for fluids and it's not like it stays purple. It goes black in about a week. You can't look at oil and see it's bad. The best you can do is see if any carbon is at the bottom of your dipstick and that's only if you have very dirty engine.

 

[1990AWD]

and yet it all depends on the engine. on my farm, we have two tractors with diesels. When changing oil, the one tractor the oil comes out as clean as it went in and the other, the oil is black within an hour of running. go figure.

 

[DSM1G90]

I like this comparison between AMSOIL and Royal Purple .... choices anybody?

Royal Purple vs AMSOIL

When changing oil, the one tractor the oil comes out as clean as it went in and the other, the oil is black within an hour of running. go figure.

Not really for it's really quite simple: There are definitely no two items alike-each will be a bit different even though they are the same.

I can see the difference if the one tractor has more hours on the motor than the other one, or different age, usage, working harder, et.al.

..just too many variables to do a fair comparison.. But still, oil goes black due not to wear just suspending the carbon particles ....

 

[crazyboy81]

If it's rebuilt you don't need thick oil. 5w30 or 40 would be preferred.

 

[JusMX141]

If it's rebuilt you don't need thick oil. 5w30 or 40 would be preferred.

...if you never drive where temperatures are above 60*f.

Even when our cars were new, Mitsubishi never recommended 5W30. If you're using 5W30 in a climate where temperatures are consistently above 60*f, you're using the wrong oil.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[talontsiboy24]

...if you never drive where temperatures are above 60*f.

Even when our cars were new, Mitsubishi never recommended 5W30. If you're using 5W30 in a climate where temperatures are consistently above 60*f, you're using the wrong oil.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Im in chicago and its winter time we see negative temps so im using 5w-40.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Im in chicago and its winter time we see negative temps so im using 5w-40.

Your comment isn't really relivent. It's kind of like saying it -20 so I'm gonna put a coat on. I don't beleave that was directed at you anyway? But, to someone that lives in Florida, Also this isn't the first person that's been saying to run 5w-* from someone that lives some where it rarely gets below 60* out... .Some of the other Oil threads people have been saying to run 5w-* without saying anything about the temp outside...Guess they'll figure it out someway.

 

[Rockyp]

I use 5w-30 year around and my temp ranges from -60 to 90. Never seen a change in oil pressure or any problems in any weather after the car warms up

 

[DSM1G90]

...sign of a good, tight motor then ...

 

[talontsiboy24]

what would u guys suggest using for a dsm that has moderate mods with a stock bottom end running 22-24psi 10w-30 or 10w-40? i hear people running 15w-50 the max in stock bottom ends in summer time but i think thats too thick even in summer but i dunno?

 

[Rockyp]

...sign of a good, tight motor then ...

Or a bad gauge.

 

[JusMX141]

what would u guys suggest using for a dsm that has moderate mods with a stock bottom end running 22-24psi 10w-30 or 10w-40? i hear people running 15w-50 the max in stock bottom ends in summer time but i think thats too thick even in summer but i dunno?

10W30 from October/November to March/April, 15W50 the rest of the year.

 

[talontsiboy24]

10W30 from October/November to March/April, 15W50 the rest of the year.

im running 5w-40 since im in chicago and its still winter out here but i will switch to 10w-40 in spring/summer.

 

[Robert Young]

Please dont put a GF-4 oil in your peformance 4G63 motor.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf

BOOSTON!

Robert Young