The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support ExtremePSI

2G Tubular adjustable suspension parts for the entire chassis. Tubular subframes

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

2, i used my bumpsteer gauge kit last weekend and wanted to check the rear toe upon compression (bump toe) and what do you know, it was giving me around 2.5mm or toe each way over a 1.5" motion! Thas crazy lots!!!

So i adjusted what i could with pauls toe arms and i got it down to 0.7***mm i forget the exact number now but its just under 1mm, im in development of a rear toe kit to get me close to where i want and need to be, its going to have the same taper insert as the front and bolt style as its simple and effective to swap around/adjust, im also going to laser cut a washer to fit inside the inner eccentric washer space to central the bolt better, not really needed but if im working on this oart then i will complete it all the way in every detail possible!

I also took a video on my sports cam of the rear suspension but im having issues uploading it so i will do my best to figure out why it wont upload and post it once i get it sorted, no reason for this really but a bit of fun LOL
 
Got all my rear lower arms back from powder coating.

I forgot to order the rear lateral rod ends and some extra dust covers so they will be here early in the week and can get final weights on them,

The rear main lowers are as pictured, i have opted for an aluminum rodend and adjuster as its plentry strong enough for its use and a bit lighter, not by much though, this comes in finished at 2lbs 8.8oz. I believe the difference between the steel parts when checked was only 10oz thats per side so overall it would save just over 1lb more total!

The reason i have chosen the alu rodend is because me and my friend made an aluminum rodend drop link for his CRZ many years ago and it works well and has done since without issues, plus its been done before.

I have made steel versions and have chromoly rodends aswell for weight difference mainly but i most likely could consider them in Stainless due to not needing to zinc plate them, weight should not differ much from steel to stainless.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
Rear lateral arm weight with everything, minus the rubber boot which i put on afterwards! it weighs next to nothing.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
And finally! The front upper arms are progressing forward nicely! 2 sets have been made to my specs and material.

Will be sent off to be zinc/nickel coated (black finish) thought it was a nice finish overall compared to clear or yellow!

Weights are in these pics, not much in it really but over 2 arms its just under 1lb saving of weight but for what it gives you in return is worth it! I could possibly chase weight more by thinning parts down but i would rather not,
The top insert is added weight over stock but i wanted that to spread the inner shaft loads and it also keeps the shaft exactly central top to bottom! Beats a big flat nut hopefully this keeps any stress limited through the whole tube and not on 1 side! Thats the theory anyway.

sorry for the pics, my phone which is kinda new is not as good as my dual camera on my older phone at doing close ups and picking out the light and finish better,

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
Any idea when you plan to put the rear lower control arms into production? I could use a set.
Not yet, i have to get them on sometime this month thdn go from there
 
Dang Bobby, those rear main lower arms are looking good!
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Thanks LOL, love the meme, i said it out in his voice aswell, how sad am I.
 
So a small update, i was emailed this from the company thats zinc/nickel plating the parts for the front upper arm shafts, and boy these things look amazing! I never expected it to finish like this but its simply top notch as far as finishing go!

They are due to be delivered to me tomorrow as I am back to work then so more pics to come once i get them in my hands,

Then can start making the arms to get coated and put on the car for some initial pre testing.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Got them back today as the delivery company forgot to collect the box from them. D'oh.

The finish in person is amazing and i am super happy with these, in future i will see if i can do all my plated part this way if its affordable on the batch and parts being done of course,

Now to try find some time to make the arms and get them coated for testing. Im excited about these and cannot wait to get them on,
Most of it is hidden from the rodends and inside the strut tower area but its very protected which was my main concern and looks really help to finish it off!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
So im getting ready to make 2 sets of front upper arms and i am playing with the mill at work to see what result i can get for this 1 paticular cut!! Because this is so tight and a bit long im not able to get an accurate / close scolop like i wish i could on the belt sander! The others i can as its not as tight of an angle but this is the PITA!

So i jumped on the mill and used a milling cutter and gently notched it and it came out pretty nice i must say! More time involved doing it this way as its a tad slower but it gets me a much better result l! So then thats how its going to be!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
Looks killer!!!!
Thanks, i actually had to borrow the tool because we dont have the size so i may need to buy one if affordable and not over priced or ask to borrow it in the future!

I really like how it came out. All my scolops are always hand done as its the proper fabrication way, yes machines help but this is pure hands on old skool way LOL,

Now i have to do the other set tomorrow and get them welded up and coated, im really looking forward to getting these on the car!
 
Last edited:
i hate you...in the best of ways. i want ALL of it. i never planned on doing half of these upgrades but with the care that goes into all these projects how could i not? free lancers like you make these cars a labor of love.
 
i hate you...in the best of ways. i want ALL of it. i never planned on doing half of these upgrades but with the care that goes into all these projects how could i not? free lancers like you make these cars a labor of love.
Haha many would hate me alot more if i did not sell any of it and only kept it to myself! But i am here to help the community out as well and progress my own car,

I just wish i knew what i did many years ago a develop these items sooner buti guess late is better then at all!

Thanks for liking my items and work i put into every piece, hopfully i have still amaze everyone with projects i have planned and on going
 
what products do currently offer
Well i have so far had my rear upper arms and bump steer kit sold, and im now onto the rewr lowers (both) and front uppers, rear lowers are done but not put them on yet for testing due to no time to currently
 
I welded 1 front upper arm up fully the other day for testing on the car after, this now will become 1 of my arms from the 2 sets i am going to make.

When welding it pulls the metal (alot more so with TIG) so when you take it out of the jig it can spring close/open depending how its welded. So when i welded this 1 up i welded it so that the initial heat was towards the outside to it would essentually pull it open and then when i finish the back it pulled it in so keeps the sping to a minimum if at all any, because these are strong units welded to 1 outer bush they have no give to adjust for install so I have to make sure welding it right so when i remove it stays pretty well put,

I will make a jig for checking it goes in to the oem slots ok once taken out of the welding jig! This way i can keep an eye on everyone and adjust if needs be and here i can spring it with presses or pullers if needs be. Its a slower process but it has to be perfect for it to fit well so it has to be done!

So today i test fitted this one to see how it worked in terms of did my welding technique work and it was a success. It went straight in!! So i will make the other 3 the same way i did this one.

Everything else worked as designed a d the black shafts do look amazing installed, so once its all powder coated black on black fittings its going to be a great set of looking arms!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top