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2G Tubular adjustable suspension parts for the entire chassis. Tubular subframes

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When do you think that your Rear Toe arms will be available?
Toe arms? I'm not even at that stage yet,unless you mean the rear lower arms?
 
Toe arms? I'm not even at that stage yet,unless you mean the rear lower arms?

Yes I was asking because Paul V has posted more for sale. If you were planning to make some then I would just wait.

Paul Volk's already put up another ad for those if you need them.

Thanks Man.

I saw that also that's why i was asking.
 
Yes I was asking because Paul V has posted more for sale. If you were planning to make some then I would just wait.



Thanks Man.

I saw that also that's why i was asking.
It's something I will do but it's not critical ATM, I used to run Paul's toe arms then I built my own similer with my rod ends in, I've actually still got Paul's arms in the garage still.

when I redo it I will redo it all for alot more adjustments for lowered cars and see if I can fit another bracket in the subframe for 2 inner holes aswell, but as I said above I have not got that far yet as in reality it's low down on priority for me, LOL
 
Haha, I did consider selling them but I'm going to keep the rod and bumpsteer shaft as a spare Incase, I'm starting to collect spares for everything now, and trying g to build 2 of everything aswell, don't always work out but I'm trying
 
Hello everyone, I'm getting close to making my jig for the front upper arms, I wanted some thoughts from everyone on what you all expect to adjust as in ranges,

They will be camber, caster and roll center adjustable and if it works out small amount of rake adjustable,

The main concern is camber and caster!

Stock is around 3 - 5.4 degrees of caster and would like to know if this range is still ideal for everyone and if not what's the thoughts on everyone's ideal setup of it or would like to get it to!

Camber is another thing, so many people wanting different ranges because not everyone lowers as much as the next person,
So for camber what is the overall thoughts of everyone's ideal range for camber,

When I make the jig I can adjust to include more camber as that was always the plan, at least untill I know what exactly I can gain with my design, then i can also pre make the arms to they gain some caster so less than mess around with so where stock could be say 4* I could make them come with say 6* of caster and it can still be adjusted to gain or take away caster still,


If you could all just give me a wide range of all your thoughts as to what YOU want to personally run then I can see what range is best for all of as close to best for all as I can get it,

Thanks
 
I don't really have an specifics or major knowledge regarding this.. So i am interested in seeing others post.

All I know is i want something that can give me the adjustability I need while running 265-275 size tire on 18"x 9.0-10.0" wheel.

Also I will be apart of this GB as well.. keep me informed!
 
Well, since I raised my car to fit the wider wheels/tires, I need more negative camber than I had before. I gained back 0.6 degrees. Keep in mind, I have Paul Volk's lower control arms which have helped me get more negative camber. If I had stock lower control arms, I'd need wayyy more adjustment to get me where I want to be. (Which is about to -3 degrees.) People who only drive their cars on the road will not need that much.

As for caster, I'll take as much as you can give. The more the merrier, but its not as important as max adjustable camber. 5 to 6 degrees will be good, but whats more important is getting the driver side to match the passenger side.
 
I don't really have an specifics or major knowledge regarding this.. So i am interested in seeing others post.

All I know is i want something that can give me the adjustability I need while running 265-275 size tire on 18"x 9.0-10.0" wheel.

Also I will be apart of this GB as well.. keep me informed!
Tires and wheels won't have anything to do with the arms, that's more of the knuckle and what can fit inside it's radius
 
He's probably thinking about getting enough camber to just tuck into the fenders upon compression.
 
Well, since I raised my car to fit the wider wheels/tires, I need more negative camber than I had before. I gained back 0.6 degrees. Keep in mind, I have Paul Volk's lower control arms which have helped me get more negative camber. If I had stock lower control arms, I'd need wayyy more adjustment to get me where I want to be. (Which is about to -3 degrees.) People who only drive their cars on the road will not need that much.

As for caster, I'll take as much as you can give. The more the merrier, but its not as important as max adjustable camber. 5 to 6 degrees will be good, but whats more important is getting the driver side to match the passenger side.
So what's your current ride height after you raised your car up? I measure from the seam seal under the car by the side skirts,

I cannot fix the left to ride caster as that's down to the bushes in the compression arms but once that's done both sides would be pretty much equal and good.

I can add around 2* of caster prebuilt in with the ability to still add more or less from using the threads in the rod ends, there is an amount I have left in to come out a bit and length of room to go in and swing it around too.so in theory it could be close to 7.4* of caster, but this is still based of initial drawings and calculations at he moment untill I can build a sample and then get accurate digital readings as to what it can do exactly!
 
He's probably thinking about getting enough camber to just tuck into the fenders upon compression.
That's possibly correct yes, I believe he was going to run fender flares aswell if my memory is on point
 
Wider than 9 inches will not fit with a simple tuck from camber.


As long as there is some adjustability in caster, i'll just give the driverside a bit more to match.

There will for sure, because of how it's going to be adjusting on both ends I'm not entirely sure at this time of how much it will alter by so I cannot give any guestimates atm. But once I have an arm on the car I can take all measurements and then post up what it can do safely, I normally try to take all measurements reference points from a stock height so I know from there what to expect after height adjusting the car.
 
So I know I said I cannot get the specs of how much camber and caster I can gain with these arms but as always I am always thinking of parts and things to do with the car so I managed to have a quick working out session and as a close approximation I should be able to get around 3.5* of camber and possibly even go to 4.5* I think if I make the arms a tad shorter.

And caster can have 1.5* added if I moved it 1/2" back, so it would be built into the arms rather then adjusting for it!

But I really won't know how much caster can be adjusted from the rod ends until I get the arm made first, I'm not that smart and I've not had a great deal of time on my suspension software otherwise I would have all this info straight away!

And I've looked into it more and I believe I can only gain about 7mm of roll center adjustment! I'm going to try push for 10mm but it's tight where these mount to in the towers so I will get as much as I can safely without fouling the metal surrounds, in principle the stiffer the car the less the motion of the arm so the higher I can go but not everyone has stiff springs or has a small motion range!
 
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My 800lb springs and RM swaybar don't seem to limit my travel much up front. I use all my compression and droop. Lol

But, I autocross. I can see where road racing might not need full travel as suspension tends to move slower.
 
My 800lb springs and RM swaybar don't seem to limit my travel much up front. I use all my compression and droop. Lol

But, I autocross. I can see where road racing might not need full travel as suspension tends to move slower.
I've noted mine has a motion of around 1.5" , I wish I knew how to get an exact range, just baseing that from my gap between my fenders and I've had not fender rubbing LOL, great way of testing I know haha
 
I've noted mine has a motion of around 1.5" , I wish I knew how to get an exact range, just baseing that from my gap between my fenders and I've had not fender rubbing LOL, great way of testing I know haha


You can put a ziptie around the shaft of the shock, put the suspension through some work, and see where the ziptie ends up.
 
You can put a ziptie around the shaft of the shock, put the suspension through some work, and see where the ziptie ends up.
I cannot quite picture how to do this, can you walk me through it a bit more please,
 
I cannot quite picture how to do this, can you walk me through it a bit more please,
You can wrap a ziptie on the shaft of the shock. In fact a ziptie is in case you have nothing else. We used to use rubber o-rings. When the suspension is at static height, the ziptie or O-ring is against the shock body. As the suspension goes through it's motions, the shock body pushes the O-ring or ziptie and when the shock rebounds, it leaves the O-ring at it's compressed height.
I realize the bump stop could create an issue, and to be honest, I can't for the life of me remember what we did about that.
 
You can wrap a ziptie on the shaft of the shock. In fact a ziptie is in case you have nothing else. We used to use rubber o-rings. When the suspension is at static height, the ziptie or O-ring is against the shock body. As the suspension goes through it's motions, the shock body pushes the O-ring or ziptie and when the shock rebounds, it leaves the O-ring at it's compressed height.
I realize the bump stop could create an issue, and to be honest, I can't for the life of me remember what we did about that.
That makes sense now, thats a great idea, i shall try this out thanks
 
Today has been a great day,

I got my rear lowers made fully and ready for powder coating, i also made some inner tabs to go onto the stock subframe which allows me to move the inner point up 1" if i wish, this is the way forward at the moment till i can find time to finish designing and makeing the jig for the rear subframe so its easier and its got plenty of room for this to work so i took the easy way for now.
These weigh a good amount less them oem units, they will be a tad bit more then what i have shown for powder coating and ive not got the spherical adjuster machined yet, these weights are for all steel and chromoly rod end weight, i can also have the droplink rodend and spherical adjuster in aluminum aswel so it could make it a bit lighter aswell, im making both versions so once i do i will have the weight differences to post up.

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And big news!!! I finally redid my front upper jig and managed to tack weld an Arm together! Yay.

Dont worry about the gaps LOL i cannot get my tool to bend as tight as i need so i made do for now for this test arm, i am sending some metal away to be bend tighter and see how well it works out over my bend, because its CDS tube its super stiff and not very easy to bend so tightly.

The way i have this arm mocked up means its only going to be useable with coilovers, i will look into putting a curve into it to allow stock shocks to fit but i will see how it fits on the mock up chassis first as it may be ok as it is now though.

It will use 3 rod ends and have an adjustment range of pretty much 24mm which should give a good 3.35* of neg camber and it can also add around 1.15* of positive camber.

The outer mount is already moved over in the jig to automatically add caster, this should depending on car setup get you close to 7* of caster off the bat, with the benefit of also adjusting it +/- aswell from there with the rodends as I have left enough on the threads for adjustment.

The inner and outer mountings are still in development phase but i do have samples but have since changd design and specs so i will be getting a ee set made to the final design a d from my choice of material that will be run on the car soon.

Roll center adjustment has also been effected since development started as after several tests showed that 1" of rollcenter adjustment was never going to happen! EVER!!! So I was testing alot and found a safe amount of adjustment was 6mm which i will happily take over nothing! It may not have a huge effect but time will tell, its also a way of adding 6mm of more antidive aswell which could be very useful!

I hope you all like the arm. As its the first of its kind i really want to get this thing pretty good and be at a good weight but also super strong and cost effective for all, not weighed anything yet on this arm

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Are you going to be doing any group buys on these arms Bobby? all I need now really, and trailing arns
 
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