2G Tubular adjustable suspension parts for the entire chassis. Tubular subframes

[EC17PSE]

Great work!

Now if we only had a viable swaybar option

Yeah that would be nice,

I'm planning my subframe and was going to use a blade type sway bar as it's adjustment is within the blade itself,

We make rollbars at work but I think they would be too heavy .

The best we got is to just use the adjustable droplinks and give it more preload! That's best we have or will have,same as the fronts, I'm making some adjustable droplinks for the front so it's somewhat adjustable to an extent! Not the best way but it's better then nothing.

 

[EC17PSE]

Today was a good day, I got my bump steer kit in and tested them compared with the OEM tie rods, at OEM levels when lowering your looking at close to 1.27mm (50thou) n compression only!! So double that for unloading the suspension aswell, that's with a motion of just 1" and more aswell if you go more then 1" movement so say soft springs will vary. Massively

With my ride height and OEM tie rod I measured 0.8128m (32thou) on compression. Again it's not alot but I felt this as it's more then enough to be an issue especially if your again on soft springs,

The next test was my bumpsteer kit on the underside of the knuckle! This was how I designed it and thought since I'm low enough it would work but it did not so well, reasons are. I'm not low enough and it produced 0.889mm (35thou) on compression so a little more then OEM so I ditched the underside idea since I'm clearly not low enough to use the underside and opted to go back to the TOP side, this got me great results!!! I'm now closer to the knuckle arm and I got it down to 0.2286mm (9thou) and I think I can get it closer then that if I machine 1mm off the face of the taper insert on its head area!

So to me it's worked well, not quite as I wanted or designed but heck I'm taking something over nothing or worse haha.

I've not had a good chance to feel it or test it yet as it's icy and very foggy so not going crazy.

initial thoughts are.
No slack, very sensitive and even a slight movement is felt in the wheels move, I feel the steering in the wheel more and because I have solid engine mounts it now seems to vibrate more then it did this morning aswell but not alot more, so overall at the moment I think it feels great and very connected! But I will see what becomes of it very the next few months,

No dust cover can be used as it stops the motion of the rod end moving freely but other kits I've seen for other cars also don't use covers either so it seems like a normal thing.

I was ment to have a video but my mount broke and I barely got any pics as it was a long day but I grabbed a few, so enjoy

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[mountain_man]

Thanks, I'm going to flip the bearing housing I think and machine for a thicker snap ring and wider aswell, I'm just worried of it breaking it but my research has told me the snap ring I'm using is good for 10/12,000 lbs pressure! So I may be OK but I'm still going to flip it that way it's got more meat in the housing up top then below but to be honest I think both ways are fine as both make pretty equal forces up/down but I just feel happier this other way

When are you planning on selling these rear lower control arms with sway bar mounts?

 

[mountain_man]

The next test was my bumpsteer kit on the underside of the knuckle! This was how I designed it and thought since I'm low enough it would work but it did not so well, reasons are. I'm not low enough and it produced 0.889mm (35thou) on compression so a little more then OEM so I ditched the underside idea since I'm clearly not low enough to use the underside and opted to go back to the TOP side, this got me great results!!! I'm now closer to the knuckle arm and I got it down to 0.2286mm (9thou) and I think I can get it closer then that if I machine 1mm off the face of the taper insert on its head area!

So to me it's worked well, not quite as I wanted or designed but heck I'm taking something over nothing or worse haha.

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Al

Also, combination of washer/spacers and stacking order did you end up using? Great work bubba!

 

[EC17PSE]

When are you planning on selling these rear lower control arms with sway bar mounts?

Not sure yet, I'm currently looking at this time see if I can make 1 arm fit both galant and OEM easily, but if that fails then I can have a mock set welded up an on testing in the next few weeks hopefully and if all seems OK with no sway bar issues then a few months time as a guess

 

[EC17PSE]

Al

Also, combination of washer/spacers and stacking order did you end up using? Great work bubba!

I used the tapered insert first because you have to, then I used the smaller washer then the rod end then the bigger spacer, flanged nut underneath with nothing as the flange is a giant washer in itself.

I got it damn close to being perfect and much better then OEM is

 

[mountain_man]

Not sure yet, I'm currently looking at this time see if I can make 1 arm fit both galant and OEM easily, but if that fails then I can have a mock set welded up an on testing in the next few weeks hopefully and if all seems OK with no sway bar issues then a few months time as a guess

Maybe it's my reading skills but I'm still a little confused .... Are the rear lower control arms going to fit a 1G(AWD/FWD), 2G (AWD/FWD), and Galant VR4?

 

[EC17PSE]

Maybe it's my reading skills but I'm still a little confused .... Are the rear lower control arms going to fit a 1G(AWD/FWD), 2G (AWD/FWD), and Galant VR4?

It's OK 2G no 1g stuff here buddy,

Because the galant and DSM arms are different you use different ARB's and that means the rear lower arms are different. I'm trying to see if I can make 1 arm work with both so if someone wanted to switch to a thicker 3g or galant AFB then they can and it's the same arm so it means less cost to do that (upgrade)

Just trying to think logic for everyone and make it simple for everyone aswell and it also keeps them low cost interns of they buy arms once and not twice because they swapped setups etc etc.

I hope I've cleared it up buddy, everything I'm making is 2G specific and so far all these parts work on both AWD and fwd

 

[mountain_man]

It's now clearer then my mind....

 

[EC17PSE]

It's now clearer then my mind....

Haha no worries buddy, I'm here to help you unfog your brain if needs be hehe

 

[EC17PSE]

Completely made 1 OEM version rear lower arm! Fully welded, I had to redesign the outer bracket as when the laser cutter make them and fold them the supporting tabs uptop had to be a certain length for them to fold! Making 1 was a pain as It quite hard to get the holes inline with a folder or flypress haha but I'm skilled and managed it with alot of checking 3 times.

I've upped the tube size wall to 4mm on this one from 3mm but I may keep the 3mm as when I tested it 3mm deflected nicer plus it's a bit lighter,

The OEM arm is 3.5lbs.
Mine with 4mm wall is 2.6lbs.
Mine with 3mm wall is 2.2lbs.

What I'm going to do now is get the brackets laser cut as a sample set and make a pair of arms for testing with 3mm walled tube as I'm happy to go with 3mm on these rear arms since we have no shocks on them and the ARB does not put down as much weight/force as I tested it at!

So keep an eye on this for when I get a set fully complete and ready for testing.

Also another note, these arms are not just adjustable in the droplink or camber either! I'm making a tab that can get welded or just bolted to your subframe which allows you to adjust the roll center again! It's not as much as the upper arms but the lower arms will have all 3 points of adjustment.

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[mountain_man]

WANT! Looking good my friend

 

[EC17PSE]

WANT! Looking good my friend

Thank you buddy

 

[Black95TSIawd]

That looks great. Will you be supplying the necessary items to bolt the sway bar on?

 

[EC17PSE]

That looks great. Will you be supplying the necessary items to bolt the sway bar on?

Of course, i would not half ass make an item to sell , it's an adjustable rod end with special made inserts and it's adjustable from below and locking up top, this is version 1 and as OEM.
My other design is where it's 1 complete bar like the galants and the droplink is a double rodend and that's going to be for anyone who wants it slightly different, like me or has the galant sway bar, people are concerned about the twist in the tube but it's nothing to worry about though,

Also the inner mount will come with a tab with 2 holes to weld or just bolt up to the subframe meaning you can adjust roll centers again to recoupe any loss in arm motion when lowering, it don't have to be used but it's there incase

 

[95eclipser]

Take my money! Count me in for this next group buy!

 

[Phudu2004]

Can you just go ahead and build the whole suspension all at once? That would be really nice. I'll keep an eye out for this.

 

[EC17PSE]

Haha kind words guys, thank you,

I wish I could just build it all at once. It's not that easy for me since I have a full time job and this is a hobby on the side, I am trying to make it all goes faster though.

 

[gsxitement]

Wow. This is awesome stuff. I was just curious about the front bump steer* correctors. At what height would this be beneficial to go on the bottom? When my cars on the drive on lift, the angle of the tie rod is pretty steep. I'm not slammed by any means, but doing more track time with the car means I wanna get this car sorted proper. Great work!! Just gotta come up with an awesome compression arm next . Great job.

 

[EC17PSE]

Wow. This is awesome stuff. I was just curious about the front bump steer* correctors. At what height would this be beneficial to go on the bottom? When my cars on the drive on lift, the angle of the tie rod is pretty steep. I'm not slammed by any means, but doing more track time with the car means I wanna get this car sorted proper. Great work!! Just gotta come up with an awesome compression arm next . Great job.

Compression arm is something I'm going to leave till last as I've not got a way I'm happy with for the adjustment and to not droop. I'm also considering redoing the whole front end and having 1 arm instead of 2 arms which does mean alot of work on the lower knuckle mounting to make 1 central mounting point rather then 2!

As for the bump steer kit it's hard to say exactly, when I tested it underneath I had recently raised the car 1/4", I used to be at 4.5" front and 5 rear and now I'm 4 3/4" front and 5 1/4" rear so that may of made a huge difference, I'm keeping to the 1/2" take as it find it works well for balance for me,

Even though I have them on the stock upper location they still work well and have got them closer to zero then the OEM rod ends plus there is no slack or anything and it's 1 solid connection so far me it already feels tighter then OEM.

My guess would be if if someone was around my 4.5" or even lower they would 100℅ need the kit for correction, while any higher is not really needed unless you want to get what bump steer you do have lowered to closer to zero and the better feedback from steering!

I hope I have not talked on too much and explained it OK, if not just let me know.

Thanks for liking my items

 

[gsxitement]

Compression arm is something I'm going to leave till last as I've not got a way I'm happy with for the adjustment and to not droop. I'm also considering redoing the whole front end and having 1 arm instead of 2 arms which does mean alot of work on the lower knuckle mounting to make 1 central mounting point rather then 2!

As for the bump steer kit it's hard to say exactly, when I tested it underneath I had recently raised the car 1/4", I used to be at 4.5" front and 5 rear and now I'm 4 3/4" front and 5 1/4" rear so that may of made a huge difference, I'm keeping to the 1/2" take as it find it works well for balance for me,

Even though I have them on the stock upper location they still work well and have got them closer to zero then the OEM rod ends plus there is no slack or anything and it's 1 solid connection so far me it already feels tighter then OEM.

My guess would be if if someone was around my 4.5" or even lower they would 100℅ need the kit for correction, while any higher is not really needed unless you want to get what bump steer you do have lowered to closer to zero and the better feedback from steering!

I hope I have not talked on too much and explained it OK, if not just let me know.

Thanks for liking my items

OK. I wish I had a pic of the underside of the car. I definitely need some kind of correction. I'd definitely be interested in this kit if you have or plan to release it. Oh, and never too much info brother. Keep it up!!!

 

[gsxitement]

Also. This is the car at static height. I might wanna lower it a bit more and this

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kit would definitely help

 

[EC17PSE]

OK. I wish I had a pic of the underside of the car. I definitely need some kind of correction. I'd definitely be interested in this kit if you have or plan to release it. Oh, and never too much info brother. Keep it up!!!

I will be selling them sometime soon, possibly in March. I'm just making sure I'm happy with them and all the parts that don't need any adjusting or tweeking etc.

While I can build for my specific car it's hard to always get an all in 1 but I've got a good amount of motion in the rod ends to play with so even with a dramatic drop or even raised initial testing has shown they can move quite alot which is good for the stock shock lowering springs guys as they tent to have the widest motion range compared to coilovers.

From your picture you are a bit more lower then myself, I think yours is how I (used) to have mine or close enough by oicture reference, so underneath or above like the stock tie rod end the bumpsteer kit will work but it needs to be tuned in to your car and motion of your given shocks! I did mine 1" either way as that's about how far mine moves.

Unfortunately as this is adjustable in terms of height and location I cannot tell where is best for any other cars but because it is so adjustable the choices are wider and can mess around with it alot more to dial out as much bumpsteer as possible.

 

[gsxitement]

I will be selling them sometime soon, possibly in March. I'm just making sure I'm happy with them and all the parts that don't need any adjusting or tweeking etc.

While I can build for my specific car it's hard to always get an all in 1 but I've got a good amount of motion in the rod ends to play with so even with a dramatic drop or even raised initial testing has shown they can move quite alot which is good for the stock shock lowering springs guys as they tent to have the widest motion range compared to coilovers.

From your picture you are a bit more lower then myself, I think yours is how I (used) to have mine or close enough by oicture reference, so underneath or above like the stock tie rod end the bumpsteer kit will work but it needs to be tuned in to your car and motion of your given shocks! I did mine 1" either way as that's about how far mine moves.

Unfortunately as this is adjustable in terms of height and location I cannot tell where is best for any other cars but because it is so adjustable the choices are wider and can mess around with it alot more to dial out as much bumpsteer as possible.

OK great. I forgot what the fender heights were from when we scaled the car last year. And yeah, definitely not a one size fits all and I totally understand that some tinkering has to be down to get it right with my setup. Definitely gonna buy a set when they become available. My first race isn't till the end of April, so it'd be nice to have them for that race. Again, great work. It's nice that someone is putting real effort into these chassis for something other than drag racing. I love drag racing, don't get me wrong. But these cars are so capable as road race cars.

 

[EC17PSE]

OK great. I forgot what the fender heights were from when we scaled the car last year. And yeah, definitely not a one size fits all and I totally understand that some tinkering has to be down to get it right with my setup. Definitely gonna buy a set when they become available. My first race isn't till the end of April, so it'd be nice to have them for that race. Again, great work. It's nice that someone is putting real effort into these chassis for something other than drag racing. I love drag racing, don't get me wrong. But these cars are so capable as road race cars.

This will be the First ever bumpsteer kit for our cars! I know why no one else has done it as it's a right PITA to do it how it should be done but this way works well and I'm happy with the ease of adjusting them.

Thanks for liking all my items, I am trying my best to modernize the chassis system and get it to perform better on the roads and track, as I say to everyone, I wish I had started this sooner then I have done .