lightest strongest connecting rod?

Posted by RipperXX, Mar 24, 2006

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  1. RipperXX

    RipperXX Proven Member

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    I am curious as I can't seem to find alot of info on connecting rods for our engines, that partains to there exact spec.

    What I am looking for is the lightest and strongest rod I can get my hands on. Something that can take 500whp but light weight. My goal is only 380-400whp but why not over build?

    At any rate if someone could post up how much the more common rods weigh and what there rated to hold I think this could be very usefull info to more than just myself.
     

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  2. talon1987

    talon1987 Proven Member

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  3. playitlouddsm

    playitlouddsm Proven Member

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    project_tsi likes this.
  4. qtxdevilz

    qtxdevilz Proven Member

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    yes aluminum rods are the strongest and lightest...but they also require you to retorque the rod bolts every 5k miles or so...so if you are awd...that means about every oil change...you have to drop the cross member, drop the transfer case, un bolt the dp, take the pan off and retorque the bolts...not something i would want to do on a daily driver...also the cost of the rods are way to expensive...aluminum rods are made for drag cars...if you goal is 500...and you want to go cheap...eagles should be able to handle that much with a proper tune...get them on ebay for 300 + shipping...i personally do not like eagles...so if you have the extra cash i would go the stronger crower...i personally have pauter rods...they are the strongest non aluminum rods available but they weigh alot...i got them at an incredible deal though...hope this helps...
     
  5. fourreGsixty3

    fourreGsixty3 Proven Member

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    Ok lets see, oliver, pauter, and crower are excelent. Alum rods by groden(sp?) are probably what you are looking for, and its not retorquing them thats the problem, its that the alum flexes due to its chemical make-up, and that puts stress on the rod bolts. But since you are shooting for 500HP this shouldn't be a problem because you will be in your engine atleast once each year or more, and the alum rods aren't too much more expensive>>>http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?cat=37&, crower's rods are 685$ and GRPs alum rods are 699$. or >>>http://www.ffwdconnection.com/rods.shtml, even cheaper...I remember seeing something on SBR about groden alum rods, with apr rod bolts combo, for a pretty good deal, but Im not sure if that deal stopped running.
     
  6. JDNSBR

    JDNSBR Proven Member

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    For a daily driver I do not recommend an aluminum rod. They do not stand up to heat very well for long periods of time. They are made for race only. For your application and what you are shooting for I would narrow it down to three choices; Manley H beams, Eagle, and Scat. Here are the average weights.

    1) Manley H Beams - 550 grams

    2) Eagle - 575 grams

    3) Scat - 639 grams.
     
  7. fourreGsixty3

    fourreGsixty3 Proven Member

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    Oh I didnt realize it was a DD, perhaps carrillo A-Beam rods would be nice, 520grams, not sure how much they with stand but Im inclined to believe that if your not making nasty amounts of power like shep, they will hold up nicely.
    EDIT*** By the way, the Alum rods would hold up fine, its just the rod bolt's that would take the ebating due to the expansion rate of aluminum, but like you said they arnt recommended for street use... they would be fine for a 30/70 street/ track combo.
     
  8. ISUJakey

    ISUJakey Proven Member

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    Have any weights for Oliver rods?
     
  9. JDNSBR

    JDNSBR Proven Member

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    Oliver's average is as follows;

    6 bolt - 605 grams

    7 bolt - 576 grams
     
  10. qtxdevilz

    qtxdevilz Proven Member

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    just for reference...how much do pauters weigh...LOL...
     
  11. qtxdevilz

    qtxdevilz Proven Member

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    like i said in my first post...the rod bolts have to be retorqued every 5k miles or so...so if you plan on using it for more than quarter mile passes...you will be doing alot of oil pan removal...LOL...
     
  12. JDNSBR

    JDNSBR Proven Member

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    Pauter's average weights are as follows;

    6 bolt - 685 grams

    7 bolt - 650grams

    You guys are killing me. :tease: Just kidding.
     
  13. sho_tyme_psi

    sho_tyme_psi Proven Member

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    Damn heavy:) Just mated mine up with my venolia pistons and I thought they felt kinda heavy. If your wanting to make under 500hp, I think any will do.
     
  14. AlmostStock TSi

    AlmostStock TSi Proven Member

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    When I worked for a machine shop we had a problem with Eagle rod eqipped engines knocking after a very short period of time. We decided to measure all the big ends (bearing holes) and out of something like 24 rods only about 2-3 measured out to spec. From then on if anyone wanted or ordered Eagle rods we had to machine them back to spec. Take that for what it's worth, but personally, I would use sock Mitsu rods before Eagle rods again.
     
  15. Goobdog

    Goobdog Proven Member

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    Why has no one mentioned the Manley "I" beam rods ?
     
  16. missouri_dsm

    missouri_dsm Proven Member

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    I heard David Buschur say that Crower rods are stronger than eagle rods but he prefers eagle rods because they are lighter. He also said he has never seen crower rods break and only a handful of eagle rods break that were in extremely high horsepower cars. These 2 rods are what they use in their stage 3 shortblocks.
     
  17. JDNSBR

    JDNSBR Proven Member

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    That is because it is two different types of rods. The Crowers are an I beam where the Eagles are an H beam. In "high horse power" applications of course the Eagles are going to break more often than the Crowers. The Eagles have a HP rating of 600 while the Crowers have a rating of 700 HP. The I beam design has been know to withstand alot more abuse than the H beam design. (In our motors) Different types of rods for two different types of wants and needs.
     
  18. Jon Lane

    Jon Lane Proven Member

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    How are the Manley's vs the Eagles in ~400hp street apps? The Eagle QC is a concern...
     
  19. JDNSBR

    JDNSBR Proven Member

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    The H beam vs H beam is pretty close in compariablity. When you talk the Manley I beams vs Eagle then of course Manley all the way. However H beam vs H beam, I still prefer Manley. Made in USA by a great company and have had no problems yet. :thumb:
     
  20. sho_tyme_psi

    sho_tyme_psi Proven Member

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    Since you are doing so well with the HP ratings, you dont happen to know what the hp rating is for the oliver billitt rods are do you? I just hope they will hold up till I do the alumium rods in the other motor. Thanks in advance.:thumb:
     
  21. GVR4592

    GVR4592 Proven Member

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    The AMS built black Evo uses Oliver rods, 900whp so far.
     
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  22. drivemusicnow

    drivemusicnow Proven Member

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    I do not have knowledge to support either direction, however I thought I'd bring to light what your competitor says about the subject:

     
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  23. missouri_dsm

    missouri_dsm Proven Member

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    What competitor is the quote from? Unless it is a reputable company I would'nt rely on this information. Personally Slowboy and Buschur are 2 of the most reputable companies in the dsm community. I would listen to any advice from either one. But John Doe's dsm shop giving advice means squat to me.
     
  24. AlmostStock TSi

    AlmostStock TSi Proven Member

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    http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...or+me+to+post+a+personal+message+on+the+site"
     
  25. sho_tyme_psi

    sho_tyme_psi Proven Member

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    I know who that quote came from, Ive heard both good and bad about them along with about everyother shop. I throw out alot of stuff i hear do to the fact I feel alot of ppl installing the parts are not capable of doing it properly. ON NOTE, With those alumium rods are they streetable? Probally. Will I have them in my street motor, NO. There is no reason to. I will have them in my race motor though. If any one plans to run them in a street motor I find this great, but please do us a favor and keep us updated on maintence and performance. But this is just my .02
     

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