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2G lets talk some transmission, "built" or stock rebuld?

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AlexGsxCummins

Proven Member
395
34
May 31, 2014
Bremerton, Washington
Hey guys, i just got this 95 gsx, the first gear and reverse is grinding also sometimes shifting into 3 it slightly grinds, so its only a matter of time, One day i would love to have a hx40 on it, as it sits now it has a small 16g on it with supporting mods, so with my goal of one day hitting 10 seconds. should i go all out and get a built transmission or find a good local shop that will do it for a few grand cheaper. im not trying to cheap out, more just trying to find out if its really needed or not.. ive read some mixed reviews of people saying the built ones dont hold up and just rebuild stock and vise vera so, what do you guys think now days, i know our options are getting smaller, i would probably run jacks transmission. thanks!
 
"Built" transmission are put together with OEM parts (and now from salvaged parts as the new ones get discontinued). The difference is really in who does the rebuild & how much they pay attention to details otherwise the trannies are the same basically.
 
Iirc, only a few sets of evo3 gears, if any, are still available. Basically it's stock dsm gears, whatever treatments you choose to do (shot peening, cryo, wpc etc) and how tightly you shim things. There are some other things shops do (synchro timing etc), but I dont recall all who do that.

IMHO, i think the manual transmission rebuilding for these cars is more about a warranty. A competent mechanic could go through and rebuild a w5m33 for the cost of parts, barring any exotic stuff (double/carbon synchros etc). If there were good aftermarket or replacement gears then a "built" transwould be just that. But its really just a stock box with some slight tricks inside.
 
Unless you have a transmission with a straight cut gearset in it, you have stock Mitsubishi gears. If you have a 4 spider center diff that has a machined stock cross shaft, it's probably weaker than stock. I have broken a stock cross shaft in a 2 spider diff without breaking the gears.

Another issue is that the strongest gearset (1990) isn't the best shifting. The best shifting 3-4 setup (evo 3) seems to break even easier than Dsm gears for some people.

For what it's worth I'm running 1990 gears in my car and they shift fine at 9200 rpms with my clutch system mods and act 2900.
 
For a drag car welding is the best. For a street car a 4 spider with aftermarket cross shaft or even a stock diff with new shims and a bearing under the cap gear is fine if you aren't going to launch it hard.

The only transmissions that need major upgrades are the 93-99. The large synchro 3-4 setup they use has a weak hub/slider.
 
honestly ive never been a fan of launhing cars, i perfer taking off from a roll, not because its not fun i just dont like picturing all the stress on all my money ive put into it. although i will like to run the strip some times. i could just take it a little easy, i think this really helped me chose my transmission i will go with. Also i think i will fork up the money for a 4 spider, hopfully jack using a aftermarket cross shaft.
 
I think both FWD & AWD Trannies were designed to go behind the same 4g63 so either would be about equal in robustness. They have different gear ratios though. Which is "better" would be dependent on what you are intending to use it for.
 
good info -- curious if the manual tranny out of a 94 awd rebuild kit who has the best bang for the buck?

what's wrong with a welded center as a daily driver as i have read others think it is just fine and i would be inclined to agree as you still have front n rear diffs
 
Take what Donniekak says o heart, it's the truth, unless you get exoic with custom gear sets you're basically buying treated or modified stock parts in any trans build wi some exceptions, what makes tm ld aside from treatments to the gears is how thye are assembled and with how much preload on the gears. see the main thing that causes a lot of failures, is the gear clusters push apart from each other putting the stress on the middle and tips of the teeth instead of keeping it deep down in the root where it should be to hold power better...end play in the shafts/clusters is what allows this to happen for the most part, so preloading them helps keep this deflection from happening, it also helps the gears to slow down on shifts more from the drag taking some work from the synchro and helpg with high RPM shifting. i'veen building my own trannies forgood 6 years or so now and have learned a lot but ther's still a lot more to ithan what I've said here.

don't just go withlocal tranny shop buithey will probably at best rebuildthe unit to factory scs or worse yet just putnew synchros in and slap it together at what ever end play it has with stock shims as they won't order shims after doing a crush test (especllyat around 8 to 13 bucks each plus the waiting time to get them) when they figure they can bolt it together with the shims it had in it to star5t with and get you done and the bill payed

you're only good options to have it put together caringly by some one who knows their stuff and cares about a dsm and doesn't just lump it in the ricer" category is to use one of the main 4 being TRE, TMZ, Jacks or Shep... or pay one of the members here who also do trans work based on who' close to you or will meet your budget, but i'dther pay a fellow DSM'er with no professional training than a regular old trans shop with what ever training they say they have, as at least the DSM guy cares and likes DSM's enough to trand dthe best he can for you and wan'ts to hearpositive feedback when you get it in
 
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