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just dont get it.

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redfield102j

Proven Member
170
7
May 12, 2015
Spring Creek, Pennsylvania
I recently bought this car it sat in a guys garage for over 10 years taken apart to have clutch put in. I bought it taken apart never hearing it run. Came with a spare motor with everything on it. I got the car home put clutch in and started the car took lil time to get going cause how long it sat. Got it started and it sounded great. Then a horrible rattle started and the engine moved like a broke motor mount. I shut it off and decided to put other motor in. I completley stripped new motor down to block and head. I took all old parts off other motor meaning intake,fuel rail,plugs,wires,knock sensor,turbo, everything. Got it all together and in the car. So started the problems. Went to start the car and had no spark. Couldnt figure out why. The spare motor came with a ecu also so figured screw it ill try it. Hooked it up hit the key and it fired right up. It ran threw the rpms without a problem seemed to be building boost and everything took it for a ride and it seemed like clutch was slipping. Brought it home and started the attempt to fix. Come to find out the clutch is working fine and it seems to be a power issue. Now ive done a boost leak test.. passed.. replaced all vaccum lines.. for nothing.. and the car isnt any better. It revs to 4k and goes all retarded them tries to die when ya let off gas. I dont understand it. First thing why did the old ecu not work on new motor and why cant i get the motor to run right with the ecu that works. I did have to swap the cam angle sensor from old motor to the new one.. so frustrating
 
It is a 91 eagle talon tsi awd. There is another post of mine has more info and pics of both computer boards and all ive tried to fix the issue. It is.. "motor swap confusion..smh" name of post
 
It could be a number of things thats almost impossible to diagnose over the internet.

Have you checked the easy stuff? New plugs (nkg br6es) and wires.

Test the coil pack.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/back-firing-at-wot-maybe-fuel-cut.130662/

Rent a fuel pressure tester. May be a clogged filter or bad fuel pump. If the car has sat for 10 years the tank is probably full of junk.
 
I drained tank and flushed it out with new gas. Put new filter and plugs in when tried first motor. Havent put new wires or tested coil pack. It doesnseem to be getting worse the more i run it. Guess it is possible gunk in fuel lines and what may have been in tank could be clogging it up. Any recommendations on cleaning fuel sistem out or should i just get new filter and a bottle of fuel system cleaner and a gallon or 2 of 93?
 
my car ran like sh/t when I put a nt fpr that must of been bad had a miss hesitated Im not sure if its due to haveing the stock fuel pump for a turbo and a nt fpr it was interesting alright something fuel related to check and nock stuff off that list of what ifs does it idle Decent?
 
Cleaned fuel system was still pretty nasty. It made it idle alot better. Still will only rev to like 4k and goes all retarded. When you let off throttle it tries to die. Im waiting on a timing light to check ignition timing. This i have never done. Hoping i dont mess it up. I took entire valve cover off and double checked machanical timing just to be sure.. it all checked out.. got new plugs coming tomorrow morning and have to order some plug wires but with all ive done and bought so far im about broke..LOL havent been working because i have no car to get back n forth.. this car is killing me
 
What is a crc filter? And what is its purpose? Going to check timing and the haines manual says to put a paper clip in it. Not sure this piece is on the coil from original motor. However do think it may be in old coil pack. Will this cause issues?
 
Ok so ignition timing was stupid easy to set. After setting it shut car off for bout 15 min went back out and started it back up. The jumpy idle is still there and goes to stupid mode at 4 to 5k rpm. I removed all spark plugs to check the color as this is my first dsm im not 100 percent what they should look like. The ceremic in center and tip where black and the spark arm was golden brown. Nothing looked bad to me. Tomorrow im gonna change inner cooler piping and clamps and add an adjustable fuel regulator. Hoping to eliminate any boost leak im missing or a fuel lack problem. If anyone has any other ideas that would keep the car running this way and not building more than a pound or 2 of boost and trying to die when you let off gas please feel free to post.. thank you all so much for the help
 
Not sure how to tell.. i have a set from each motor and ive had each set in it. Each set has the same result no diffrence. I even tried spraying carb n choke cleaner around all y injectors and entire seal of intake to check for leaks there weren't any
 
Check the fuel pressure regulator vacuum lines. If the lines are put on backward to the fuel pressure solenoid on the firewall it will cause some fuel issues. I'm talking about the line that goes from the fuel pressure reg to the solenoid, and then from the solenoid to the manifold.
 
That is what both sets of injectors look like. I redid vac lines with new hose im pretty sure i got them right atleast according to the diagram on the hood. There are 2 sensors right next to each other that are almost identical only diff is one has a blocked port on the back by fire wall
 
Well im back at it this morning.. double checked for boost leak and it pressures and holds over 25lbs.. obviously not the problem. Gonna hook up a fuel regulator to check fuel pressure although i dont believe this is the issue do to plugs looking like its running rich. This is cylinder1 plug. All four plugs look the same as far as burn.
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This may be a dumb question but is it possible that the exhaust manifold gasket or manifold its self are bad? I do have spare manifold but no gasket handy. Could one of these leaking cause jumpy idle and no boost build? I am new to turbo applications i built a 91 grand am and turbo charged it had an issue with my home made exhaust manifold sealing due to power stearing line. Is it possible the exhaust isnt sealed on this dsm? Is there anyway to test this before taking it all apart?
 
Well i called and checked on a manifold gasket.. 15 bucks will be here at 230. For that cost think ill just remove this manifold and gasket and replace it with new gasket and original manifold from original motor as to eliminate the possibility. Thank you for your coments and help. If there is anything you know of i may be missing please comment and educate me..
 
so you bought the car in pieces correct?
there is a reason it is in pieces. you can expect there is something major wrong with it it can be difficult to figure out your problem without a set of known good components.
i am a hoarder as are many of us, and if need be say , swap maf with known good one, etc. i would definately want to watch fuel pressure while it goes "retarded".
 
btw the gasket wont make it run shitty. ive had MANY a leaky exhaust manifold gasket, all it does is make an annoying tick sound
and hurt spool but not enough to be noticable
 
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