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J pipe to intercooler pipe too low, better routing ideas??

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darknezz7

Proven Member
571
80
Mar 30, 2014
Eugene, Oregon
Hey guys, I am looking for ideas on how to route this better with what I have.

I do not like the 45* coupler so low under the car, pretty sure it will get bumped by stuff and eventually tear a whole in the silicone coupler.

I thought about a 90* coupler right after the J pipe and go above the cross member? But I know your not supposed to make too sharp of turns either.

Do what can I do here using what I have or maybe some local parts.

I have a piece of 2.5 flex exhaust pipe and I leak tested to to 30psi it actually holds, thought about using that and go over the crossmember for now.

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This is just kinda how it was when we got the parts car, the only thing different now is the 20g turbo and j pipe. Before it had like a U shaped pipe off the t25 and went under the crossmember but it was straight and not low like this.

I dont think I can make it work like yours spades, had thought about that, but I dont see how I would get the J pipe to the passenger side or the part with the bov to meet up higher.

Heres another pic you can kinda see how the piece with the BOV is made

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Instead of adding that extra piece to go under the crossmember. Use a 90 elbow right by the wastegate coupler I see and go over it then just use a straight piece and looks like you have the rest. That's what all the kits I have do.
 
idk why u got that 45 pointing down like that. Im running the same route only it goes straight into a 90 up to the j-pipe after the cross member. If u just want an easy fix, buy a new 90, long on both ends so you can cut to size to meet with ur j-pipe and 180 bend out of the drivers side
 
i have a bend before the cross member, no amount of pipes could do it for me i had to go to a place called " Amazon hose" in Tampa Fl. Not related to the Amazon site FYI, but they sell (cup-links/intercooler hose) in any size bend shape angle you want. that is how i did it.

http://www.amazonhose.com/

They me be able to serve you.
ALSO all DSM guys, they make high end quality stuff , some of this stuff i cant find on ebay or else were.

Good luck.
 
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Instead of adding that extra piece to go under the crossmember. Use a 90 elbow right by the wastegate coupler I see and go over it then just use a straight piece and looks like you have the rest. That's what all the kits I have do.

This is what I mentioned I thought about doing, I just didnt think a 90* bend right after the turbo would be a good idea.

I think I have a 90* coupler so will go ahead and do that, thanks.
 
Heres what I came up with. should be good and def better than before.

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Then did a boost leak test and found it leaking really bad at the throttle body shaft seals mostly on the tps side...
 
Turn the 90 alittle more so that one clamp is straight bro. That's going to blow off for sure. Or get a better pipe or just get the clamp on straight. Other than that bro looks really good, way better than before :)
 
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It wont cause its hitting the motor mount. That pipe is going past the clamp and that part is tight plus I've pressurized from the j pipe part to throttle body and it hold 30lbs. Its the Tb thats leaking...
 
You can take the front housing off ya turbo and grind off the locating dowl which allows u to point the outlet down to get rid of the u bend at the top, iv done this on mine and went under the radiator above the xmember and out the passanger side ( your drivers side), it looks good and works well.
 
You can take the front housing off ya turbo and grind off the locating dowl which allows u to point the outlet down to get rid of the u bend at the top, iv done this on mine and went under the radiator above the xmember and out the passanger side ( your drivers side), it looks good and works well.

Yes, but now the bosses for the wastegate bracket is 180° off, you'll either need to fab a custom bracket to be able to mount the wastegate or go external gate.
 
Yes, but now the bosses for the wastegate bracket is 180° off, you'll either need to fab a custom bracket to be able to mount the wastegate or go external gate.

Yes thats correct, i run an external so wasnt a problem for me.
 
At 15lbs boost it keeps blowing off the coupler where I cut the pipe and it doesnt have a rolled edge. I put 4 machine screws on the end of the pipe to make a lip thinking it would hold it from slipping off and it helped but still came off at a point, using the good style clamps. Going to try a better coupler cause the only one having issues is a softer rubber than the others.

Driving good though!
 
Need to use silicone joiners and good quality clamps, iv run 16psi in mine and never popped a joiner
 
They are good quality clamps as far as I know. Yea getting a good reinforced silicone coupler, the main issue is the pipes do not have that rolled lip anymore since had to cut them to make things work.
 
Spray the inside of the coupler and the outside of the pipe with hairspray then assemble and let it sit to dry. I'd say that will help hold it on, its sticky stuff and along with a clamp should do the job with just 15 lbs. Cheap. Give it a try.
 
Why not eliminate that coupler and split in the pipes and use one pipe all the way. That way less chance of leaking

Because it needs a slight bend right they're, one piece has the nipple for boost controller and its going from 2.25" to a slightly larger pipe that mates better to the rest of the 2.5" intercooler piping.

The problem area is the end of the second pipe (one with mbc line) from J pipe,
 
Hmm interesting I see. So is the coupler just a straight 2.5" or is a reducer type? Maybe the new one is? Also you can make a simple pipe beader with vise grips and a 3" U exhaust clamp. I believe it's in a tech artical. That's how I did mine at home before I got a bead roller for the shop. :)
 
Hmm interesting I see. So is the coupler just a straight 2.5" or is a reducer type? Maybe the new one is? Also you can make a simple pipe beader with vise grips and a 3" U exhaust clamp. I believe it's in a tech artical. That's how I did mine at home before I got a bead roller for the shop. :)

Well sheet, I found this...

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I'll be doing this AND get a new coupler.

I think its a 2.25 to 2.5 coupler.
 
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