Hey Guys, not sure how well this has been covered. I tried to post in the tech articles but I am still a newbie. Anyways, I never found much info on this so here is my experience:
All 1G Turbo's are plagued with the infamous cast iron flaws on it's hot side of the 14B Turbo.. It is actually really funny because the turbo itself will outlast the turbine housing without ever needing a rebuild.
The 16G hotside is actually has a similar bolt pattern with some slight differences, most notably a better design and cast.
The reason you use the housing of a 16G is because of.... AVAILABILITY.. They are everywhere. Ebay, some friends blown 16g or even your blown 16g. Good luck trying to find a 14B hotside in good condition.
I did not take pictures when doing this, so I will do my best to explain the process.
1. You need to remove your turbo. (Steps on how to do this can be found in several places, I will post a tech on how to do this later.
2. With the complete turbo assembly in front of you, grab an 8 or 10mm socket (Can't remember at the moment) and remove the V-Clamp from the turbo.
3. Carefully tap in around the turbo and the housing until they seperate, if this does not work use a flathead in between the assemblies very carefully as to not gouge the metal. This may take a while, do so very gently and in a circular motion.
4. The assemblies will come apart revelaing the turbine. Be careful not to bend the fins.
5. Take the hotside and... Throw it away..
6. Take the 16g Housing and place it on a steady surface or a C-Clamp if you have one with the Turbine housing facing toward you.
7. There is a nipple that alligns the two assemblies together for the proper mouting. You need to grind the nipple on it's sides to about half it's size so that it can slide into the groove of the turbo, do this slowly and carefully as you do not want to grind the nipple completely away.
8. The Turbine housing has the same clearance as the 14B allowing for plenty of spool up with no lag or creep.
9. With your turbo off, now would be the time to port your WG and the O2 Housing if you have not doen so already.
NOTE: One thing that was noticed with this setup was that the 14b Wastegate actuator binds against the housing not allowing the wastegate to open completely. The solution for this was using the 16G Wastegate actuator which is adjustable and opens completely.
Your 14B is now back in business with no more leaks, jumpy boost and crap housing.
If this was covered already, my apologies. I have a bunch more tech articles I have posted on my Local that I will be bringing over here, hell.. Maybe it will help someone out.
All 1G Turbo's are plagued with the infamous cast iron flaws on it's hot side of the 14B Turbo.. It is actually really funny because the turbo itself will outlast the turbine housing without ever needing a rebuild.
The 16G hotside is actually has a similar bolt pattern with some slight differences, most notably a better design and cast.
The reason you use the housing of a 16G is because of.... AVAILABILITY.. They are everywhere. Ebay, some friends blown 16g or even your blown 16g. Good luck trying to find a 14B hotside in good condition.
I did not take pictures when doing this, so I will do my best to explain the process.
1. You need to remove your turbo. (Steps on how to do this can be found in several places, I will post a tech on how to do this later.
2. With the complete turbo assembly in front of you, grab an 8 or 10mm socket (Can't remember at the moment) and remove the V-Clamp from the turbo.
3. Carefully tap in around the turbo and the housing until they seperate, if this does not work use a flathead in between the assemblies very carefully as to not gouge the metal. This may take a while, do so very gently and in a circular motion.
4. The assemblies will come apart revelaing the turbine. Be careful not to bend the fins.
5. Take the hotside and... Throw it away..
6. Take the 16g Housing and place it on a steady surface or a C-Clamp if you have one with the Turbine housing facing toward you.
7. There is a nipple that alligns the two assemblies together for the proper mouting. You need to grind the nipple on it's sides to about half it's size so that it can slide into the groove of the turbo, do this slowly and carefully as you do not want to grind the nipple completely away.
8. The Turbine housing has the same clearance as the 14B allowing for plenty of spool up with no lag or creep.
9. With your turbo off, now would be the time to port your WG and the O2 Housing if you have not doen so already.
NOTE: One thing that was noticed with this setup was that the 14b Wastegate actuator binds against the housing not allowing the wastegate to open completely. The solution for this was using the 16G Wastegate actuator which is adjustable and opens completely.
Your 14B is now back in business with no more leaks, jumpy boost and crap housing.
If this was covered already, my apologies. I have a bunch more tech articles I have posted on my Local that I will be bringing over here, hell.. Maybe it will help someone out.
