2G Installing (Bobbys) bump-steer kit / outer tie rod ends

Posted by ec17pse, Jul 7, 2017

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  1. ec17pse

    ec17pse Freelancer

    2,296
    482
    Joined Nov 1, 2008
    London, Europe
    Hello everyone,

    Here is a write up on how to install my kit. please read it fully and any questions please do ask me

    Disclaimer!!!
    Firstly I have to mention that when i designed this kit it was not with dust boots in mind! if you do keep them please take extra care to get it located right! I'm mentioning this as everyone wants them on the rod ends to stay protected but it does make it a little more tricky and i shall explain! you can remove them if you wish.

    the taper spacers are very tight of an angle and the rubber from the boot sit inside this taper and stops its angle, HOWEVER!!! this wont be much of an issue as 1. it rarely See's the steep angles anyway and 2. if it does reach them angles it will squash the rubber anyway so wont be that bad and over time get thinner anyway.
    my kit allows the angles to reach almost the OEM's angle so I doubt it will ever crush the rubber.

    This kit is best to be setup by a shop who has the ability to perform a bump-steer test with a bump-steer gauge! Failure to setup correctly with out the kit will result in dangerous steering / bump steer, this is why it must be setup correctly by a trained persons with the correct kit!!!
    a link to a bump-steer tech article is here and is a very good read to learn what it means and does more http://www.longacreracing.com/technical-articles.aspx?item=8162

    IMG_20170416_175513.jpg


    in these pics below it shows the boot sitting below the taper (wrong way) and the next pic is how it has to be over the taper (right way), this is done by pulling the rubber surround while you tighten the nut up to allow the spacers surface to sit flush with the rod end! the spacers must sit flush with the rod end to eliminate any slack or movement! critical to check if you keep the dust boots!

    19944202_10156216293571337_1476596836337671307_o.jpg 19702667_10156216318891337_5394211762726523675_o.jpg

    so now that's out the way on to installing them!

    firstly remove your old tie rod ends but KEEP the OEM locking/jam nut! this kit is made to go above like the OEM tie rod end, it can go underneath but only if your really low and the bump-steer gauge shows its working well under there and not creating bad bump-steer readings!

    19780400_10156216275141337_958053365725743273_o.jpg

    Clean the hole out first to make sure its free from dirt or anything that can jam the insert,
    take the taper insert and place it into the hole, this locates it nicely and makes way for a 12mm bolt and means no drilling your knuckle out! give this a little tap but don't deform the head or the bolt wont go through!

    19800977_10156216286746337_3627725694925982362_o.jpg 19944290_10156216284186337_1701559397191779177_o.jpg

    Then you have a choice of spacers! 1 thick and 1 thin plus the use of 2 washers as well if you need them! there honestly is not an ideal setup because every ride height means and needs it set completely differently!

    18280622_10155514691376337_315166105_n.jpg

    my kit allows the center line pivot from the knuckles surface to be dropped close to 4.5mm vs OEM which is a good amount, OEM is 24.5mm and mine is 20mm this 4.5mm of adjustment height range can mean you have more precise adjustment to get it as close to zero or what ever your setting is and height dependant of your car!

    place the 2 taper spacers in your chosen order and sandwich the rod end and place the bolt through them and place on top of the already installed insert in the knuckle! the use of the washers is used here (if needed) in between the knuckle insert and the rod end spacers,

    now you have 2 nuts! 1 locking and 1 non locking!

    the NON locking nut is for initial setup and also for ease of doing the bump steer gauge test as its better to remove and do up again multiple times,
    once its been set you no longer use the NON locking nut (remove it) and install the flanged LOCKING nut! its flanged so no washer is needed. do it up nice and tight remembering to pull the rubber out from the taper spacers and it will pull the insert down more as well at this point, do it up till it stops

    19679061_10156216281291337_3183524273998145551_o.jpg 19679422_10156216278176337_9105614573478645146_o.jpg 19780459_10156216230846337_7484765893926421796_o.jpg

    the kit has 19mm wrench flats and these are used to keep the rod end as straight as possible when adjusting! Adjusting is still done via the INNER tie rod as normal! DO NOT try to remove the rod end from its shaft or try to adjust the rod end from its shaft for adjustment!




    Key info for replacement parts.

    taper parts and spacers are not available as its made per batch quantity so please do not loose them!
    same as the shaft

    rod ends have been trimmed down to my spec for the fitment into the shaft and to give internal clearance for the inner tie rod threads and its also installed with vibration proof blue loctite!

    the rod end used is an m12x1.25 RH metric fine! and can email QA1 and get them ordered in.


    Thanks for reading and please feel free to PM me with any questions

    Bobby
     

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    Last edited: Aug 8, 2017
    My DSM:
    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

    Road Race Build

    175 whp   180.1 lb/ft
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  2. ec17pse

    ec17pse Freelancer

    2,296
    482
    Joined Nov 1, 2008
    London, Europe
    Just an update!

    More of a precaution as I have just done this as we speak i thought i would note it here for anyone else!

    When you or the shop loosen the jam nut on the inner rack end make sure you support the bumpsteer shaft with the 19mm wrench! I just did it without this and i loosened the rodend in the shaft! While it is tight and has loctite its not impossible to break the loctites seal as its designed to be removed when/if a replacement is needed, you can go use a red if you so wish but the blue thats used is very high vibration proof

    I dont want anyone to have this and they say its come loose on them, so please please make sure you always support the shaft with a 19mm wrench when you undo the jam jut!!!
     
    My DSM:
    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

    Road Race Build

    175 whp   180.1 lb/ft
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