Ignition toggle switch help! (if u can install a remote or push start help!)

[Quaxel]

Ok, so my 95 gs (daily driver/project car) has an ignition problem. the key wont stay in the on position, i have to prop it there with a little metal thing and brace it against my dash. huge pain. I purchased and installed a new ignition cylinder the problem persists, and i don't wanna dig into the ignition anymore. so i was thinking i could just wire a toggle switch, or a pair of toggle switches to control the the ACC position and ON position. from there i can use the key to turn to ignition and start the car. (it starts right up and works as long as i keep the key from sliding too the acc)
so does anyone have a diagram, or description or experiance putting in toggle switches or buttons or something to control the cars on/acc position? i just wanna be able to keep my car running, if installing a push-to-start is a must i'm willing, but using the key in the ignition is just fine. thanks, i know how to wire in switches and mount them and such, just don't know what wires il need, or how to make sure the battery is not being drained 24/7
any help is appreciated!

oh and i treid searching around a bit, couldn't find what i needed, if you'v seen a thread with the answers, link it
thanks!

 

[turbodude]

First, take note of the following wires:

Wire-----------------------Color-------------------Location
12 VOLT CONSTANT -----WHITE (+)------------IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER------------------BLACK/RED (+)-------IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 1---------------BLACK/WHITE (+)----IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY--------------BLUE/BLACK (+)------IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Second, all you have to do is interrupt or bypass each individual circuit or "wire" listed above from the ignition with switches that you can manually toggle on/off with the exception of the starter wire (Black with Red stripe). That wire needs to be controlled by a momentary type switch/button with a high enough amp rating to handle the current (as should the other wires). Thats how i would do it, and have done it in the past when doing push button start systems on customers cars. Or leave the Black/Red wire so that the key in the starter position turns the car over.

Yeah, you could still wire it up to use the key, but why not just bypass everything and have a cool mod like push button start? I recommend putting at least one of the switches (ie: White Constant power) in a hidden/ creative out of sight location to add to your cars anti-theft features as well

 

[Quaxel]

First, take note of the following wires:

Wire-----------------------Color-------------------Location
12 VOLT CONSTANT -----WHITE (+)------------IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER------------------BLACK/RED (+)-------IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 1---------------BLACK/WHITE (+)----IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY--------------BLUE/BLACK (+)------IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Second, all you have to do is interrupt or bypass each individual circuit or "wire" listed above from the ignition with switches that you can manually toggle on/off with the exception of the starter wire (Black with Red stripe). That wire needs to be controlled by a momentary type switch/button with a high enough amp rating to handle the current (as should the other wires). Thats how i would do it, and have done it in the past when doing push button start systems on customers cars. Or leave the Black/Red wire so that the key in the starter position turns the car over.

Yeah, you could still wire it up to use the key, but why not just bypass everything and have a cool mod like push button start? I recommend putting at least one of the switches (ie: White Constant power) in a hidden/ creative out of sight location to add to your cars anti-theft features as well

Wow. this is literally exactly what i needed. your a lifesaver.

i don't have to toucch the 12 volt constant though do i?
thank you turbodude oh and the switches should be rated at 25amps right?

 

[bryanwheat]

Did you replace just the key and tumbler, or did you replace the whole assembly? You could just pull the ignition switch from the lock assembly and turn the switch with your key. That would be a lot better than hacking up the harness. You can also replace the whole lock assembly which will fix your issue.

 

[turbodude]

Wow. this is literally exactly what i needed. your a lifesaver.

i don't have to toucch the 12 volt constant though do i?
thank you turbodude oh and the switches should be rated at 25amps right?

Your welcome, well keep in mind that the 12V constant (White wire) is what supplies the 12 volts power to each subsequent wire within the ignition switch harness. For example, when you turn your key to ACC position the white wire now supplies the blue/black (ACC wire) with power, when you turn your key to the ignition position, it now supplies the black/white wire with 12v power, etc, etc.

So, in short... yes. You will have to tap into the main constant power wire in order to get power to your ACC, ignition and starter circuits. Or, run a direct line from the battery if you prefer, but is unnecessary. The absolute correct way to do this for a professional install would also consist of using SPDT relays in accordance with your switches to route the power from your 12v constant to each individual subsequent circuit. acc, ign, etc... But, i've seen plenty of installs without it, and will work. Just not as "professional"

PS- You should be okay with 25amp, but if i was doing the install i'd use a little higher load such as a 35 or even 40amp to sleep better at night.

 

[Quaxel]

Your welcome, well keep in mind that the 12V constant (White wire) is what supplies the 12 volts power to each subsequent wire within the ignition switch harness. For example, when you turn your key to ACC position the white wire now supplies the blue/black (ACC wire) with power, when you turn your key to the ignition position, it now supplies the black/white wire with 12v power, etc, etc.

So, in short... yes. You will have to tap into the main constant power wire in order to get power to your ACC, ignition and starter circuits. Or, run a direct line from the battery if you prefer, but is unnecessary. The absolute correct way to do this for a professional install would also consist of using SPDT relays in accordance with your switches to route the power from your 12v constant to each individual subsequent circuit. acc, ign, etc... But, i've seen plenty of installs without it, and will work. Just not as "professional"

PS- You should be okay with 25amp, but if i was doing the install i'd use a little higher load such as a 35 or even 40amp to sleep better at night.

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heyy, so late response, but i just got to buying the switches, button, wires, ect... was about to install today, but was kinda curios... i took apart the dash below the wheel, and got too the ignition switch and harness... but then i became a little confused, i assumed that there would be the wires that Turbodude mentioned going into the ignition switch, and then to find their matches coming out... however, i can only find where they go in. now, i can't imagine that adding toggle switches, and a momentary-switch into these wires would change anything...? just toggle the onnections that are already there... someone wanna tell me if im missing something obvious or what? and if this would work what if my ignition switch is already bad? then would this prevent it from working? thanks, and sorry again for the delayed response!

Edit*
Ok so i think it makes sence now...
the 12 volt constant gives power, the other ok just realized how dumb that was... and think i figured it out. 12 volt constant brings power to ignition switch. switch sends power out through other wires depending on the key's position... so i just wire each of the others to a switch, and then to the 12 volt constant? thanks!

 

[luv2rallye]

Just do this for push button start: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=86217&d=1218432730

 

[Quaxel]

Just do this for push button start: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=86217&d=1218432730

thanks rallye, this is a lot different (simple too!) than what i was thinking... i don't know a lot about wiring diagrams, but im gonna guess i just need a 4-way relay? (the black box in the pic?)

 

[luv2rallye]

It's a standard automotive relay (not called a 4-way) you get in any auto store. It has those pins on one end with those pin numbers. You can connect pin 87 to the larger black-yellow wire leaving the starter relay (which goes to starter "S" terminal).

In fact you can use the starter relay as this relay if you want but the pins are not labeled like this (and it is a little complicated to show you as it looks completely different). It's probably easier for you to just buy a new relay.

 

[Quaxel]

Great, thanks again, im gettin this donesoon as i have a day off school and work. thinking this sat, il post an update and when all is said and done il add a pic or two