1G I want full Line Pressure on a switch! (AUTO)

[breaksdaily]

I have seen many threads about the full line pressure mod (blue wire) but none of them actually explain or show a diagram on how to do it, the ones ive seen show using TPS sensors with resistors ETC wired in so its full line pressure above a certain throttle %... I do NOT want this I want to throw a switch and have full line pressure all the time and then be able to turn it off back to normal TCU control. Ive also seen the Kiggly mod but his diagram only shows on using a manual ratcheting style shifter wiring!

My preference for cleanliness and sleeperness would be to wire it up to the POWER/ ECO switch, can anyone help?

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[Dstarperformance01]

smart shift box. Forcedfour has them with
With tcu switch or whatever they call it. Almost exactly what you are talking about feature wise

• User configurable line pressure control (soft shift feature)

http://www.forcedfour.com/smart100.htm

 

[breaksdaily]

Im aware of the shift boxes ($199), but I know there is a cheaper alternative, the guys at English Racing had it just using a switch years ago before the boxes even came out... Thats what im Looking for!

 

[Dstarperformance01]

Okay, what about a programmed tcu with the switch to switch between "full line pressure" and stock tcu. I believe there's an ad for it in the freelancer section. $200 it's priceless when it comes to all the programmable features and protection in my eyes. I can understand not wanting to spend the $

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

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i acually just bought a tcu (off dsmtuners) that was socketed and came with 3 chips from dave at efi specialty.
One chip has the power/eco full line pressure option
Eco is pretty much what power was
And Power is full line pressure and redline shifts

Or buy an acual shift box with full line pressure ,digital gear indictactor,down shift protection,paddles ect..

Thats your best option tbh
Or make a shift box and have a switch that turns off the tcu and activates your shift box (from a stop).

If you have a basic knowledge in electrical circuits than desolder your eprom chip in your tcu (youll most likly have one) and add a socket .
Then email dave at EFI for a chip 100$ ea

 

[Kapok6]

I did the blue wire mod on a toggle switch. It's not hard to do.

 

[breaksdaily]

I did the blue wire mod on a toggle switch. It's not hard to do.

Ok, so how do you do it? Everyone talks about it but no one can show you how to do it.

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

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Ok, so how do you do it? Like I said everyone talks about it but no one can show you how to do it.

This is how you do it

 

[breaksdaily]

What is the function of the resistor wired in with a relay? And is the TPS signal required? Seems useless if you want the pressure all the time with the switch thrown.

 

[Kapok6]

That diagram is way too complicated to just do a simple blue wire mod.

I'll post tomorrow how I did mine.

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/diy-1g-at-clutchless-manual-mod.286205/

This thread explains that diagram.
Its really not to complicated

What is the function of the resistor wired in with a relay? And is the TPS signal required? Seems useless if you want the pressure all the time with the switch thrown.

If you want full pressure all the time than build a shift box .

Theres not really a point in doing the blue wire mod without the the tps signal because shifting at full line pressure all the time sucks .

With that tps signal it will give you full line pressure at 100% throttle .

The resisters supposedly tricks the pressure solenoid signal into doing full pressure.
Its not the proper way because its a pulsed signal but it works .

The legit way to do it is with a chip

Heres a schematic for a shift box can post details if your interested

 

[breaksdaily]

Appreciate it but i personally think opposite about the TPS signal, If you have the ability just to flip one switch only on or off and not have to worry about oh im at this throttle or this throttle and hopefully this sensor or that sensor works... Why would you only cruise around on full line pressure anyway? Its for making pulls or use at the track, one switch throw and there you go full pressure, the whole TPS thing is a waste of time IMO

Like I said thought this was supposed to be a stupid cake easy "mod" Not, Hey lets make the most complicated circuit with the most variables we can just to accomplish the same end result? Looks like everybody has their own way to skin the cat with this one.

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

If your doing track runs your better off with a shift box because your tcu will still want to shift when ever it sees do,
it will affect your times at the track.
The stock shift map is deffinitaly missing some potential

A bi product of a shift box is full line pressure and you can shift when ever you want to at the track, Its very easy to make one .

I completely understand what your saying that its a more problematic way of doing it, its just a cool option that if needed can be done .

 

[Bud92gsx]

Get the shift box. You could use my DIY shift box. It worked awesome, don't get me wrong. If I were to do it again I'd just buy the shift box and be done with it.

 

[Kapok6]

The way I did it was:

On/On switch which will have 3 terminals. Top, middle, bottom.

You cut the blue wire.

The TCU side of the wire gets connected (soldered to the middle terminal on the switch. This means the TCU sends the signal into the switch.

Now the top and bottom terminals on the switch both send the incoming signal back out. So you take the top or bottom terminal, (doesn't matter which one, and connect it to the trans side of the blue wire. So when the switch is connecting this terminal with the middle terminal, it allows the TCU to send the signal to the trans so it drives like stock.

Now take the other terminal, (top of bottom, whichever is left), and run it to a good chassis ground with a resistor in line. (I don't think the amount of resistance really matters). When the switch has this engaged, it takes the incoming tcu signal and sends it to ground and the resistor keeps it from throwing a code. Since the trans will not be receiving a signal, it allows for full pressure shifts.

Doing it this way allows you to put around town with the car basically stock, then when that d-bag in a C6 pulls up next to you and tries to give you a go, you flip the switch, you now have full line pressure shifts, and proceed to make him rethink his life choices.

 

[Dstarperformance01]

The way I did it was:

On/On switch which will have 3 terminals. Top, middle, bottom.

You cut the blue wire.

The TCU side of the wire gets connected (soldered to the middle terminal on the switch. This means the TCU sends the signal into the switch.

Now the top and bottom terminals on the switch both send the incoming signal back out. So you take the top or bottom terminal, (doesn't matter which one, and connect it to the trans side of the blue wire. So when the switch is connecting this terminal with the middle terminal, it allows the TCU to send the signal to the trans so it drives like stock.

Now take the other terminal, (top of bottom, whichever is left), and run it to a good chassis ground with a resistor in line. (I don't think the amount of resistance really matters). When the switch has this engaged, it takes the incoming tcu signal and sends it to ground and the resistor keeps it from throwing a code. Since the trans will not be receiving a signal, it allows for full pressure shifts.

Doing it this way allows you to put around town with the car basically stock, then when that d-bag in a C6 pulls up next to you and tries to give you a go, you flip the switch, you now have full line pressure shifts, and proceed to make him rethink his life choices.

Last paragraph is PRICELESS
Well put @Kapok6

 

[enriquez2000]

The tcu in this post looks familiar...

I like the programability. You can run dual shift maps with a chipped tcu and tune iy anyway you like. Can even make power mode a manumatic and shift when you want at full pressure.

 

[Kapok6]

I would like to add that I have used both Dave's custom chips and the forced four box and both are awesome products.

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

Thats a cool way of doing the blue wire mod and fairly simple right on!

No issues sending that signal to ground eh like does it affect the radio or anything?

And

The way I did it was:

On/On switch which will have 3 terminals. Top, middle, bottom.

You cut the blue wire.

The TCU side of the wire gets connected (soldered to the middle terminal on the switch. This means the TCU sends the signal into the switch.

Now the top and bottom terminals on the switch both send the incoming signal back out. So you take the top or bottom terminal, (doesn't matter which one, and connect it to the trans side of the blue wire. So when the switch is connecting this terminal with the middle terminal, it allows the TCU to send the signal to the trans so it drives like stock.

Now take the other terminal, (top of bottom, whichever is left), and run it to a good chassis ground with a resistor in line. (I don't think the amount of resistance really matters). When the switch has this engaged, it takes the incoming tcu signal and sends it to ground and the resistor keeps it from throwing a code. Since the trans will not be receiving a signal, it allows for full pressure shifts.

Doing it this way allows you to put around town with the car basically stock, then when that d-bag in a C6 pulls up next to you and tries to give you a go, you flip the switch, you now have full line pressure shifts, and proceed to make him rethink his life choices.

The tcu in this post looks familiar...

I like the programability. You can run dual shift maps with a chipped tcu and tune iy anyway you like. Can even make power mode a manumatic and shift when you want at full pressure.

Shes got a good home now man really liking the flexibility of this tcu

I acually just got my hands on a non eprom n/a tcu she needs some work though but it will make a good slow shiftin spare if shes not fried

 

[breaksdaily]

The way I did it was:

On/On switch which will have 3 terminals. Top, middle, bottom.

You cut the blue wire.

The TCU side of the wire gets connected (soldered to the middle terminal on the switch. This means the TCU sends the signal into the switch.

Now the top and bottom terminals on the switch both send the incoming signal back out. So you take the top or bottom terminal, (doesn't matter which one, and connect it to the trans side of the blue wire. So when the switch is connecting this terminal with the middle terminal, it allows the TCU to send the signal to the trans so it drives like stock.

Now take the other terminal, (top of bottom, whichever is left), and run it to a good chassis ground with a resistor in line. (I don't think the amount of resistance really matters). When the switch has this engaged, it takes the incoming tcu signal and sends it to ground and the resistor keeps it from throwing a code. Since the trans will not be receiving a signal, it allows for full pressure shifts.

Doing it this way allows you to put around town with the car basically stock, then when that d-bag in a C6 pulls up next to you and tries to give you a go, you flip the switch, you now have full line pressure shifts, and proceed to make him rethink his life choices.

Thanks man, Easy as that! Will be doing it tomorrow

 

[enriquez2000]

The way I did it was:

On/On switch which will have 3 terminals. Top, middle, bottom.

You cut the blue wire.

The TCU side of the wire gets connected (soldered to the middle terminal on the switch. This means the TCU sends the signal into the switch.

Now the top and bottom terminals on the switch both send the incoming signal back out. So you take the top or bottom terminal, (doesn't matter which one, and connect it to the trans side of the blue wire. So when the switch is connecting this terminal with the middle terminal, it allows the TCU to send the signal to the trans so it drives like stock.

Now take the other terminal, (top of bottom, whichever is left), and run it to a good chassis ground with a resistor in line. (I don't think the amount of resistance really matters). When the switch has this engaged, it takes the incoming tcu signal and sends it to ground and the resistor keeps it from throwing a code. Since the trans will not be receiving a signal, it allows for full pressure shifts.

Doing it this way allows you to put around town with the car basically stock, then when that d-bag in a C6 pulls up next to you and tries to give you a go, you flip the switch, you now have full line pressure shifts, and proceed to make him rethink his life choices.

That would make it manumatic shifting and do the trick as long as you remember to shift.

 

[Kapok6]

This mod does NOT make it manumatic. It only affects line pressure. The tcu still controls everything else.

 

[breaksdaily]

Yea hes thinking of the Kiggly Mod

 

[Kapok6]

Yea hes thinking of the Kiggly Mod

For some reason, a lot of people confuse the kiggly mod with the blue wire mod, not understanding that they are NOT the same.

 

[enriquez2000]

For some reason, a lot of people confuse the kiggly mod with the blue wire mod, not understanding that they are NOT the same.

I dont think ive ever seen just the blue wire mod and since i got the dsm people have used them synonymously... if you can have full pressure on a switch thatd be pretty slick