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2G I have a ticking and my rpm won't exceed 4 rpm

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Brad0029

Probationary Member
12
0
Aug 16, 2014
Yorkville, Ohio
I just bought a 98 gst the other day the guy said he was having issues with the alternator after I seen it was not hooked up go figure.but now I hear ticking (I figure it is the lifters)but I went to rev it up some it won't go past 4,000 rpms and also smoke started coming from inside of the engine.if you grave any answers let me know before I take it to the shop.
 

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Compression test. Leak down test. Boost leak test wouldn't hurt either. Also, check the PCV system to make sure the valve isn't blocked/missing. If there's an E-Bizzle catch can in there, get rid of it and slap the PO until your hand hurts, then slap him for making it hurt. I have seen so many of those stupid things at best be useless, and at worst ruin engines. Positive Crankcase Ventilation flow is REQUIRED for our engines to live a healthy life. There's a few different ways to design a better system depending on mods, but the stock system is borderline for a stock motor. This means that it is imperative to keep it maintained properly. Not saying that's what it is, but I would make that one of my first stops. I would also tee into the oil pressure sending unit mounting spot with an oil pressure gauge to verify correct oil pressure (or the cylinder head if it's a six bolt). Lifter tick isn't uncommon for these, but if it won't rev past 4,000 RPM and there's smoke, then its definitely not just lifters. Is the smoke coming from the engine or head itself or from the turbo? Any temperature spikes?
 
I can't get my video to upload if you can send me your email at [email protected] either hook me up with your email or # and I can send it thanks[DOUBLEPOST=1408243819][/DOUBLEPOST]
Compression test. Leak down test. Boost leak test wouldn't hurt either. Also, check the PCV system to make sure the valve isn't blocked/missing. If there's an E-Bizzle catch can in there, get rid of it and slap the PO until your hand hurts, then slap him for making it hurt. I have seen so many of those stupid things at best be useless, and at worst ruin engines. Positive Crankcase Ventilation flow is REQUIRED for our engines to live a healthy life. There's a few different ways to design a better system depending on mods, but the stock system is borderline for a stock motor. This means that it is imperative to keep it maintained properly. Not saying that's what it is, but I would make that one of my first stops. I would also tee into the oil pressure sending unit mounting spot with an oil pressure gauge to verify correct oil pressure (or the cylinder head if it's a six bolt). Lifter tick isn't uncommon for these, but if it won't rev past 4,000 RPM and there's smoke, then its definitely not just lifters. Is the smoke coming from the engine or head itself or from the turbo? Any temperature spikes?
I have not got any tests done on it yet.but what I can tell you is the smoke came from the inside of the motor I opened up my oil cap and there was smoke coming out it was not pouring out but some.and I may think mybov is bad my boost was building and the bov was not doing anything.i just talked to one of my buddies he builds muscle cars I know they are two different machines but he said it sounds like either my fuel filter,fuel pump or injectors are bad.
 
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Is it running a 1G or 2G (metal or plastic) BOV? If it is a 1G, is it crushed (vacuum nipple will be touching the lower step on the cap)? If it's a crushed valve that wasn't done right, then you will have either no boost or boost creep potentially. Also, what turbo is this running? If it's the stock T25 or a 16G then you may have a boost creep issue. You can check the diaphragm on the waste gate actuator to see if it's perforated. If so then that would definitely be a contributing factor. Is there a manual or electronic boost control device installed? If so, what's it set at?
 
You said you open oil cap and smoke coming out of motor. Did you check the oil level via dipstick not gauge. Turbo could be shot at the seals. Boost leak.
 
It's a metal aftermarket bov.i just discovered my dump valve is fu**ed so I decided to just get a Godspeed big 16g turbo with a Godspeed j pipe( i just ordered)I have a fmic and a 2.5 exhaust from the headers back already. Gonna pick up some evo 510 injectors and get a walbro fuel pump not sure if it's necessary to go with a 255 at this point may just go with a 255 but then if so I should go with 550 injectors.if anyone has a better setup let me know.i am hoping it's all a fuel problem.
 
The wastegate on the turbo not sealing would qualify as a boost leak...... I would do a boost leak test on the car once you get the new turbo in place to make sure there is nothing else weeping anywhere. I would also still do a compression and leakdown test for sure. Especially if its a cheap ebay BOV. Those are known to leak worse than a stock plastic 2G depending on the brand and where it came from. If you're going to be running a big 16G, you're not only going to need a bigger pump and injectors, but you're also going to need a logger and tuner. This is where it gets expensive, but if you don't do it the right way, you're asking for MAJOR issues down the road. The hardware you want to run is fine, but you need a way to not only see what is going on in real time inside your engine (logging software), but you'll need the ability to make changes to it as well moving forward. If you're new at tuning, I would spend the $600 and get ECM Link. That's your basic user friendly tuning suite in a nutshell. I would also get a wide band A/F Ratio sensor such as the Innovate LC1 or the AEM. You can tie into ECM Link with it, do your logs and tune it all in the same program. As far as the pump, I would go with a 255. You can use the tuning software to make it work with your setup and it gives you room for future mods. The same with the injectors. I would be running 550's or 650's. Again, you can tune them to work. You're also going to need an intake setup and 3" exhaust if you don't have it already. One of the overlooked things everyone finds out about after is that you WILL need to upgrade your clutch. The stock clutch WILL NOT handle a 16G for long at all. I would go with a nice basic ACT, Centerforce, Clutch Master, etc. clutch kit and either resurface and lighten the stock flywheel or look into an aluminum one since you're in there. BIG DIFFERENCE. Also, DO NOT GO SOLID HUB ON THE FRICTION DISC!!! Make sure you get a sprung hub or you will be weeping in the fetal position in the shower from the aggravation it will cause you on the street.
 
Hey thanks for the response it was pretty helpful.i already have a a/f wideband.maybe before I put the new turbo in I may replace the dump valve.the kid I got it from he didn't have it very long and I am suspecting he did not care to get a list of the parts and upgrades done prior.all he did was body work on it.so if it was already tuned with a Dsm link ect.. I may not want to mess with installing the other turbo until I can get a ECM link as well as the clutch.i am not completely new to this but never did my own work and this is my 1st Dsm also first with turbo.my previous car was a cobalt ss s/c stage 2.but I have always loved 1g and 2g for the looks and the redicolus hp you can get:D[DOUBLEPOST=1408483557][/DOUBLEPOST]
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While discovering my waste gate was shot I believe I have a 14b turbo which is not a large upgrade but it's better then stock.(well I believe it's a 14 correct me if I am wrong I am gonna try and post some pics[DOUBLEPOST=1408483740][/DOUBLEPOST]
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There was none that I noticed but I will check again when I make it home.in the mean time I need to keep reading up on Dsm I have a lot to learn but I can say this site is a big help.
 
Its what we're all here for man. Anytime we can help, just hit up the community. DSMers are some of the best groups of guys and girls I've met in my time on this mudball. Can't say enough good stuff. And we're always willing to help any way we can. Keep us in the loop and good luck!
 
I've read all your posts on here and it looks like your in good hands.... Good luck.... P.S. I ran a big16G for some time on low boost 10-12 psi into I was able to buy bigger ijns and dsmlink. The car ran good and it wasnt hurting for fuel.
 
Ok sounds good I will keep the updates posted and hopefully this is the issue I am itching to get this thing on the road:thumb:.i think I may just keep the b14 on for the next few months before I put it up for the winter since I have seen a lot of good posts about the b14 an over the winter I can accumulate the things I need to do it right.
 
Since we are on this. Dont want to take any focus away from this guys issue. is there a diffrence between the inflow (turbo manifold) and exflow (Behind the cat) O2 sensors and if there is can anyone give me a good website to purchase them. Got the dreaded P0170 Code when i checked my CEL. 98 GST.
 
There is an internal difference between them. Not sure what exactly, but I know if you put them in the wrong spot you'll get a code. As far as links go, you may do better just heading to the parts store locally. Wherever you go just make sure you get the exact fits not the universal. I've heard the Bosch and Denso sensors are the best to go with...
 
Well I replaced my waste gate I am having they same issue very little smoke coming from the motor I hate to say it I think I might wanna take it to a shop before I end up making my problem 100x worse I just don't really know of any reputable shops where I live just moved here a few months ago.
 
No it's just coming from the motor it is a decent amount but not pouring out but still enough to make me not want to start it again.i am just confused from that issue and it not wanting to rev past 4k rpms.is it possible that it could just be a lifter issue
 
well not wanting to rev could be another issue or it could all be related heres some basic things to inspect or replace.

1: make sure that the firing order on the spark plug wires is correct.

2:[if it has one]make sure the cas is not installed 180* off... it could also be just a plain bad cas.

3: check that the timing belt, and the balance shaft belt [if equipped] are installed correctly and the marks are lining up right [lets all hope you did not skip the timing].

4: could be a clogged fuel filter or fuel lines.

5: also could be the mas is on it's way out check it out.

6: dirty clogged egr inspect it/clean it[if equipped], the same goes for the IAC [if Equipped]

7: boost leaks could also cause this too, so do a boost leak test.
 
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Well guys thanks for the responses I am just taking it to slow motion out in sunbury ohio I have read some good things about them and I may just ad a few mods since it's there:hellyeah:.i will keep you posted and let you know what the issue was so if this happens to anyone else we will know what to look for
 
Well it's been quite awhile since I responded to my thread.I ended up bringing my car to Slowmotion and got my eyes F$$KED out and got it back in September of last year.Anyways it was the bottom end.I had them put another engine in with 82k on it and got a lot more done to it and wasn't happy with there work so myself and a buddy got it to where I want it.I will get my profile right with all my parts.Once again thanks for all the input.
 
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