how to get a turbo to spool faster

[Kyromoto]

Ive been looking on the search and cant find anything on there. so im just wondering. besides getting bigger more free flow exhaust or a cold air intake. what else can you do to get your turbo to spool faster. Im fine with the PSI i get just want less lag . o btw I have an evo 3 big 16g turbo on my 92 talon with greddy BOV, apexi exhaust system 3 inch. cut the air box and Maf mod. thank you for any info...

 

[toofast82]

Install a functioning JDM Cyclone intake, . I absoulutely loved mine!
But as said, the E316g spools pretty good any way you put it as long as its tuned well and there are no boost leaks or pre-turbo exhaust leaks.

 

[Kyromoto]

well ill know more after doing a full boost leak test tomorrow. and how much is the cyclone intake? and is it worth it as cost to perfomance wise?

 

[wowzers]

Umm...If you want quick spool yea its worth it....I wouldnt think it would require a deep pocket....

 

[toofast82]

well ill know more after doing a full boost leak test tomorrow. and how much is the cyclone intake? and is it worth it as cost to perfomance wise?

Uh, I paid $35shipped for my Cyclone, . I fabbed up my old 13g wastegate actuator for free to operate it.
I noticed a huge increase in low/mid power and equal topend to a 1g intake.
So in my case, it was very worth it.

 

[Kyromoto]

hmmm that sounds like a good investman. do you have a link to the site you got it from???

 

[lucuc0212]

Before anything I would suggest a real boost gauge. The stock one is garbage and if not the first mod on any dsm definitely would need it before doing any turbo upgrade. As far as spooling goes if it spools by 3500rpm I wouldn't be hugely concerned at the moment, but a boost leak test is always a good idea. Look in to getting a boost gauge is what I would do right away you can get one quit cheap if you look around.

 

[toofast82]

hmmm that sounds like a good investman. do you have a link to the site you got it from???

I had just bought it from a member on here.

 

[1gDSM4g63]

hmmm that sounds like a good investman. do you have a link to the site you got it from???

You got to find it yourself in classifieds, DSM Graveyard, DSMTrader, etc... It's not a new piece of equipment you can find anywhere.

 

[DIRQUIN]

Definitely do a boost leak check. I just did one and found my intake manifold has a crack on the corner, and the gasket is leaking. Also found someone drilled 2 more holes in the bov flang and the bov gasket was not sealing. Fixed the bov flange and noticed a drop in full boost rpm's and felt a good bit more pull. Still sluggish due to the intake mani crack and gasket.

 

[gringo72884]

Is your K&N Airfilter brand new? If not and its been awhile since you cleaned it, giving it a good cleaning with an airfilter recharger kit and it will definitely help spool up time. Also, I would upgrade to some NGK brp7es sparkplugs...they may help slightly....they will definitely help once your boosting hard. If you havent already, I would upgrade to a set of magnecor 8.5mm or 10mm sparkplug wires. What intercooler are you running? If you're running the stock sidemount I would give it a good cleaning with gasoline and upgrade the elbow coming off the compressor housing to a better flowing elbow or j pipe.

 

[Tanro]

if your Evo III 16g spool is too low you should really look at supercharging. I had never driven a 2g eclipse until I recently purchased mine and I was test driving it and I was like is thing really turbo? Then I finally felt it spool at like 3 grand I was like oh there we go.

Just so used to the EVO III 16 g on the talon. If your running a real mitsu big 16g or evo III 16g and your not happy with spool your not going to be in my opinion. My evo III was spooling at 2200 and hit full boost by 3000.

I cant wait to rebuild my six bolt and swap it into my GST.

 

[Kyromoto]

Is your K&N Airfilter brand new? If not and its been awhile since you cleaned it, giving it a good cleaning with an airfilter recharger kit and it will definitely help spool up time. Also, I would upgrade to some NGK brp7es sparkplugs...they may help slightly....they will definitely help once your boosting hard. If you havent already, I would upgrade to a set of magnecor 8.5mm or 10mm sparkplug wires. What intercooler are you running? If you're running the stock sidemount I would give it a good cleaning with gasoline and upgrade the elbow coming off the compressor housing to a better flowing elbow or j pipe.

actually im not sure bout the filter. i just bought this car off a guy who ABSOLUTLY destroyed the car. i fully rebuilt everything u can possibly think of in the drivetrain and suspension . and actually yeah i do need to clean the IC wich ill do today. still havnt had chance for boost leak (found 2 yesterday though so im sure theres a hell of alot more (sigh) and the NGKs i got are some real good ones. dont know part number off hand tho. but case in point the guy who owned the car before me did nothing but neglect this car and ive slowly been restoring it.

if your Evo III 16g spool is too low you should really look at supercharging. I had never driven a 2g eclipse until I recently purchased mine and I was test driving it and I was like is thing really turbo? Then I finally felt it spool at like 3 grand I was like oh there we go.

Just so used to the EVO III 16 g on the talon. If your running a real mitsu big 16g or evo III 16g and your not happy with spool your not going to be in my opinion. My evo III was spooling at 2200 and hit full boost by 3000.

I cant wait to rebuild my six bolt and swap it into my GST.

and its the genuine evo 3 turbo. not the regular mitsu one. o and i meant my car aint full boost at 3500. i meant its kinda just starting around there. sorry for the TYPO. but yeah at 2200 i feel absolutly nothing 3000 is barly i think just starting then by 3500 is when it starts its real spooling. but i think it maxes at like 4500. but when its up there its REALLY pushing psi so i know im not having ANY fuel problems (im still gunna do pump rewire though) and the injectors as is are handling it just fine.

 

[BlackMount]

It's rumored 30hp increase w\ cyclone intake on stock 4G63T. I wouldn't mind having one even if you dont see that much of a gain from it just because it's a uncommon thing to see on DSM's and I'm all about unique Permformance mods (the ones that work that is)

 

[cra]

in case the problem persists or that you are still not happy after you've looked into all that were recommended - timing, adjustments, maintenance, etc...

i am curious if you are running a stock or modded cylinder head? the unexpected lag/bogging that most experience when running a stage 3 or higher, 1g head on a 7.8:1 or even 8.5:1 block can be disappointing, especially if the car is not ideally tuned. the problem gets worse when you use performance cams on such a set up?

maintenance issues aside, the most responsive gvr4 or 1/2G cars with a stock bottom end have used stock (unported) 2G heads. the higher flow velocities associated with this head increases response (and turbo spool). [note I did not say flow volume.]

someone mentioned the cyclone intake mani. this is not a bad idea provided you can get one in good shape and complete. otherwise use one with:
1) very short runners
2) outlets that are directly compatible with the inlet dimensions of the 2g head (again, do not port the 2g head if response is your goal), and
3) a TB side that matches a 1G TB

a couple of local club members have gvr4s with a stock 7.8:1 block, stock 2g head, JDM intake and 1g TB, and their cars were impressively responsive - one used a big16g and the other an 18g, both of which are slightly more laggy than an e3 16g. and this is using crap 91 octane gas!

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

It's rumored 30hp increase w\ cyclone intake on stock 4G63T. I wouldn't mind having one even if you dont see that much of a gain from it just because it's a uncommon thing to see on DSM's and I'm all about unique Permformance mods (the ones that work that is)

No power increase, just a wider powerband.

 

[BIRDCLAWTSi]

I have seen dyno sheets with proven torque gains in the low end with the cyclone. If you search on this site you will find them too.
I have one on my car now, But it is not actuating yet. I have a check valve hooked up to keep it closed, I feel a difference down low but can't comment on the switching over part yet. It definately increases spool time a bit. I am currently doing some building and once i am done, Off to the dyno. I will do some pulls with the butterflies open and closed, And where the lines cross i will actuate it.

 

[viprez586]

and its the genuine evo 3 turbo. not the regular mitsu one.

This doesn't really make sense but I assume you mean you have the MHI(Mitsubishi) Evo 3 16G.

BLT, Seafoam to find exhaust leaks, Check the wastegate for proper operation and seating of the flapper, lastly compression test.

and the injectors as is are handling it just fine.

Unless your looking at a datalogger and reading the injector duty cycle, how do you know their "fine".

and the NGKs i got are some real good ones. dont know part number off hand tho.

Run the standard copper plugs, they're the cheapest NGKs and they run the absolute best hands down.

 

[Kyromoto]

This doesn't really make sense but I assume you mean you have the MHI(Mitsubishi) Evo 3 16G.

BLT, Seafoam to find exhaust leaks, Check the wastegate for proper operation and seating of the flapper, lastly compression test.



Unless your looking at a datalogger and reading the injector duty cycle, how do you know their "fine".



Run the standard copper plugs, they're the cheapest NGKs and they run the absolute best hands down.

yes i meant MHI(Mitsubishi) Evo 3 16G.

and found sum more important problems today. my ball joint is going out. so at the moment boost means nothing to me im just trying to find a new control arm to replace mine.

and i know the injectors are fine becus i get NO fuel cut or any fuel related problems whatsoever

in case the problem persists or that you are still not happy after you've looked into all that were recommended - timing, adjustments, maintenance, etc...

i am curious if you are running a stock or modded cylinder head? the unexpected lag/bogging that most experience when running a stage 3 or higher, 1g head on a 7.8:1 or even 8.5:1 block can be disappointing, especially if the car is not ideally tuned. the problem gets worse when you use performance cams on such a set up?

maintenance issues aside, the most responsive gvr4 or 1/2G cars with a stock bottom end have used stock (unported) 2G heads. the higher flow velocities associated with this head increases response (and turbo spool). [note I did not say flow volume.]

someone mentioned the cyclone intake mani. this is not a bad idea provided you can get one in good shape and complete. otherwise use one with:
1) very short runners
2) outlets that are directly compatible with the inlet dimensions of the 2g head (again, do not port the 2g head if response is your goal), and
3) a TB side that matches a 1G TB

a couple of local club members have gvr4s with a stock 7.8:1 block, stock 2g head, JDM intake and 1g TB, and their cars were impressively responsive - one used a big16g and the other an 18g, both of which are slightly more laggy than an e3 16g. and this is using crap 91 octane gas!

my 90 gsx actually has that setup. i love the 2g head on 1g block. it really has much more velocity and its VERY noticable. Some people try to say its not worth it but as I HAVE this setup on one of my cars i LOVE it

 

[BlackMount]

How "slow" does your turbo spool exactly?

My 14B starts to spool at 2000rpm, and spools a full healthy 16psi by 3000rpm's and that's with a Bad ECU, fat crack in the exhaust side of my turbo, and Stock Exhaust w\ a muffler. Pump Gas, 89 Oct or 93 Oct depending how fat my wallet is that week. I really see no difference when running 89 instead of 93 oct except the car is a tad slower but not alot. Never noticed a difference in spool time either.

maybe somethings wrong with yo car G.

????

EDIT: I do have a Ebay Aftermarket Manifold maybe try yourself one of those. dunno if it helps spool time or not but common sense says so if it flows better.

 

[toofast82]

No power increase, just a wider powerband.

There is a noticeable power increase as well as wider/more usable powerband in the low/mid range. Never had a dyno to compare the before/after personally, but the gain felt like quite a bit to me.

 

[ccwhisenhunt89]

you went into looking for a bigger turbo and didnt get anything to tune it with no mbc not even a wide band or an after market boost guage 3500rpm full boost isnt all that bad i hit at 3k but still i wouldnt complain.
get an evo or gm maf and adapter
get a wideband o2
get a mbc
get something to control your fuel
get a turbo timer so you dont kill your turbo so fast
and if you havent get a 3 inch exhaust and down pipe aftermarket j pipe and a better manifold if your running stock
all of that will help alot im not all that smart about turbo cars but ive owned one for 3 months and already picked all that up for it before i threw my t28 disco potato on it

How "slow" does your turbo spool exactly?


EDIT: I do have a Ebay Aftermarket Manifold maybe try yourself one of those. dunno if it helps spool time or not but common sense says so if it flows better.

i would definatly stay away from cheap ebay manifolds some of them are ok but some of them are worse then stock dont be a tight with your cash just buy a decent priced manifold or just get a used one in the classifieds here

 

[viprez586]

and i know the injectors are fine becus i get NO fuel cut or any fuel related problems whatsoever

It's your car do what you want, operate those injectors at +80-90%IDC.
Just because you don't get fuel cut doesn't mean your setup is reliable or going to last.

 

[BlackMount]

i would definatly stay away from cheap ebay manifolds some of them are ok but some of them are worse then stock dont be a tight with your cash just buy a decent priced manifold or just get a used one in the classifieds here

idk if mine REALLY is a Ebay manifold. It's just a tubular non stainless steel manifold. and I only think its a ebay manifold because the fact that it isn't stainless steel (its all rusty and shit) and I saw one just like it on ebay not long ago.

 

[4g63t]

You got more going on than you thhink if you can't spool a 16g. Do a compression test and a cylendar leak down test to find what's wrong

 

[Kyromoto]

yes i do have a few things wrong with the car. ive been doing nothing but fixing every single thing u can possibly imagine since i bought this car off an idiot who neglected and and destroyed the motor along with the suspension and a whole list more.

i still need to do boost leak tests and compression tests. but spool is just somthing i want to be faster. but a ball joint (wich i found out last night one is broken pretty bad) needs to be fixed so i spent all day taking the ball joint off my GSX and put it on my talon since my gsx aint street leagle she wont mind if I borrow it . but hopfully tomorrow ill have time to check the leaks. cus im 90% sure i got boost leaks due to the fact ive already found 3 just by checking hoses for cracks/loose/ etc etc. so ill let ya know what i find out tomorrow man. and thanks again for telling these people not to bother replying if they just wanna be stupid i appreciate it

and to the guy about the injectors im not running stock injectors and so if you really dont care then stop replying to this thread as well as all the other people who keep replying when they got no need to.

You got more going on than you thhink if you can't spool a 16g. Do a compression test and a cylendar leak down test to find what's wrong

yeah i know. im going to do 1 as soon as i find out all other essential things that need to get fixed so that my car is atleast drivable