How do you tell if the CLUTCH FORK is bent?

[Demon33]

I have a 1G GSX and I'm trying to rule out some causes of the clutch not disengaging. I just rebuilt the master cylinder and flushed and bled the line. The slave was rebuilt about 10 months ago and it's not leaking. I replaced the rubber hose with a braided hose. The clutch and flywheel were replaced about 8 months about and I used a new OEM throwout bearing and pivot ball. I still have to check the clutch pedal assembly for wear, but I currently have the master cylinder rod almost fully out, while still allowing the slave to return to its compressed position when the clutch pedal is released and I still can't get the clutch to fully disengage.

Can someone tell me what to look for externally (without having to drop the transmission) to diagnose a bent clutch fork? My logic says that if the fork is bent, the end of the fork at the slave cylinder should sit closer to the passenger side, as that is the direction of the force applied by the slave cylinder. Currently, mine sits closer to the driver's side, so I'm thinking my fork is still good.

If it's still good, I'm going to pull the clutch pedal assembly and have a look at it for wear.

Thanks for any and all help.

 

[standard235]

My Clutchmaster FX300 just went out on me recently. Wore down to bare metal on both sides. The flywheel and pressure plate were seized to the clutch disc.

 

[cabbageman97]

You would definitely be able to tell if it was bent. Also, typically under most circumstances, aluminum will bend and cast iron will tend to break. However because the pivot and fork work together as a socket joint, they are both wear components. If the fulcrum fits loosely in the fork then that may cause a problem. But probably not as severe as what your problem sounds.

 

[Demon33]

Thanks for the reply. I don't think it's bent or broken, as I don't hear any strange noises or feel any odd vibrations through the clutch pedal at idle or otherwise. But I've never seen a bent or broken fork and just wanted opinions on what to look for. Pushing in the clutch pedal with the engine running doesn't produce any abnormalities except that the transmission won't go into gear.

I'm leaning more towards the clutch pedal assembly as the culprit to my disengagement woes. It's the original assembly and I'm fairly confident that it could have some wear to it.

Any additional feedback is appreciated.

 

[cabbageman97]

The 1g's did have a problem with the pedal assembly bushings. I'm sorry I would have mentioned that but just now noticed you had a '90.

 

[1997_GSX]

I recently had this problem, It turned out the Pressure Plate bolts loosened up to be finger tight!

Is it an aluminum flywheel?

 

[cabbageman97]

I recently had this problem, It turned out the Pressure Plate bolts loosened up to be finger tight!

Is it an aluminum flywheel?

THATS A PROBLEM haha. Could have been disastrous. But the problem with these symptoms is it could be a million different things causing it. With mine it was a bent shift fork, then bad pressure plate, then bad m.c, then bad input shaft bearing, then t.o. bearing, and all with relatively the same symptoms . Start simple and work your way to the more intensive possibilities.

 

[Calan]

Did you check the step height on the flywheel before installing it? Should be .608"-.612".

You said you installed the clutch and flywheel 8 months ago...has it always had this problem, or did it just start?

 

[Demon33]

I recently had this problem, It turned out the Pressure Plate bolts loosened up to be finger tight!
I was sure to use blue loctite on all the pressure plate bolts and red loctite on the flywheel bolts. Each bolt was tightened to spec using a torque wrench.

Is it an aluminum flywheel?

Yes, it is a Fidanza aluminum flywheel and 3.2 clutch.

Did you check the step height on the flywheel before installing it? Should be .608"-.612".

You said you installed the clutch and flywheel 8 months ago...has it always had this problem, or did it just start?

I verified the step height before I installed the clutch and flywheel. It was right at 0.612" all the way around. The steel flywheel friction surface was brand new, as was the 3.2 disk and pressure plate.

It's been working great up until yesterday when all of a sudden I couldn't put the car in gear at a stoplight. Because I had my 4 year old son with me driving in the rain, I forced it in to make the left turn. It didn't grind, but it was difficult. I was able to shift into 2nd and drove it that way for about 1/2 mile on residential streets. The car finally died on my driveway, as I couldn't hold in the clutch without the car stalling.

The 1g's did have a problem with the pedal assembly bushings. I'm sorry I would have mentioned that but just now noticed you had a '90.

After I installed my clutch and flywheel, there was a clicking sound to my clutch pedal whenever I stepped on it just before it reached the floor. For a few months now, I no longer hear that click which makes me think something changed in my pedal assembly. Possibly bushings, clevis pin, the hole in the lever arm rounding off, etc.

 

[cl1ckclack]

It's been working great up until yesterday when all of a sudden I couldn't put the car in gear at a stoplight. Because I had my 4 year old son with me driving in the rain, I forced it in to make the left turn. It didn't grind, but it was difficult. I was able to shift into 2nd and drove it that way for about 1/2 mile on residential streets. The car finally died on my driveway, as I couldn't hold in the clutch without the car stalling.

Did this ever get solved? I had the EXACT same thing happen to me last week... trying to narrow it down before dropping the transmission and ordering parts. I have a brand new slave, clutch line, and master cylinder, completely bled, and my car still will not go into gear. happened all the sudden just as yours did.

Mods, i realize this is an old thread

 

[sidewaystsi]

When you replaced the clutch 8 months ago do remember there being alignment dowels in the transmission or block?If not pull the transmission, i bet you find the springs from the clutch disk let go and jammed in the clutch assembly.On a not so destructive note though you say you replaced pretty much everything except the fork.That may also be the issue as as the pivot point of the fork will wear the same amount as the pivot ball meaning there is still a worn part in the system.I guess either way the transmission will still have to be pulled.good luck,let us know what you find.