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2G How do I adjust my master cylinder rod

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rolltidero

Proven Member
319
24
Jan 9, 2014
Madison, Alabama
I know this has been beaten to death but I am experiencing some issues adjusting my master cylinder. I am experiencing the 2G pump up in the clutch. I had my clutch replaced last summer and the master and slave cylinders replaced about 2 weeks ago. I went out of town so I didn't get to drive the car around so I'm just now finding the pump up. The issue I'm running into is I turn the nut on the rod and it just turns and turns but doesn't move. Also the top of my pedal doesn't look like the pictures I've seen. Below is a picture of where the rod connects to the pedal. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I just wanted to let you guys know that a version of the part that connects to the pedal sold by autozone (I know, I know) only works properly with that master cylinder in their kit. I tried to use my more solid built one (oem) with the autozone master and I couldn't get it to properly adjust at all. There was an inch almost difference in how much shorter the hardware was in autozone to the oem one. So if you run into a clutch that even max adjusted is not properly adjusted the pedal mounting hardware might be the issue if Mc has been replaced.
 
The replacement I bought 2 years ago from whatever parts store I went to, can't remember which, also never got properly adjusted no mater how much I tried. I the end, I had to pull it back out and got a refund for their piece of crap part. I turned around and bought a rebuild kit for my oem master and it has been fine ever since. This is what I pulled form my car and rebuilt. Does anyone know for sure if this is an oem part or not?

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There appears to be variations in the clevis and rod over the years.
This. The clevis is different on my OEM one that went bad VS the aftermarket one I ended up buying and using. The difference in length is substantial. Enough so that trying to use the OEM clevis almost bent my clutch fork and probably did bend the pivot point ball. With the OEM clevis it was so far out of spec that you cant adjust it enough. The rod length is also different so it would really mess you up if your using parts from the wrong kit together.

Improperly adjusted driving it for a day the clutch would slip under hard acceleration and would disengage as soon as I pressed on the pedal, where you should have about an inch of slack before it even starts to pull the clutch plate away.
This is what I pulled form my car and rebuilt. Does anyone know for sure if this is an oem part or not?
So the one I thought was OEM that was in my talon Is stamped: AM-53A -nothing else I wonder if that was not an OEM part, it doesn't not say japan anywhere on it.
 
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So the one I thought was OEM that was in my talon Is stamped: AM-53A -nothing else I wonder if that was not an OEM part, it doesn't not say japan anywhere on it.

Honestly, I can only assume mine is oem. I don't have pictures of the other side, so I don't yet know if it has Japan stamped there or not. I do have to do a little bit of adjustment to mine, so once I get around to it, I'll check.
 
I want to clarify that I have no specifics on what is exactly different between the OEM Mitsu clutch masters. But simply going by what has been posted about a couple different Mitsu examples in this thread they have at least revised the clevis and the rod.

This probably has no bearing on what a non Mitsu replacements look like.

As far as it having NABCO JAPAN on the passenger side of the body. I can't confirm that every Mitsu replacement says this. Every single one I have ever seen did, but that means nothing. From what I can tell NABCO is a large Japanese manufacturer of various types of hydraulic and pneumatic devices/systems. They must build them for Mitsu, that's not too say Mitsu hasn't acquired them through any other manufacturers. Or built them themselves for that matter.
 
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