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Hot Start issue... CAS?

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n00btalon

15+ Year Contributor
197
0
Aug 13, 2005
lebanon, Pennsylvania
Ive had this unresolved issue for awhile: Ill drive my car on my way home from work (40 minutes) its at operating temperature and ill stop at the store go in come out after 20 minutes and it wont start... it'll fire but struggle and then die... i can sometimes by gas'ing it get it to go if not have to wait til it cools longer... I've tried coolant temp sensors ... now someone suggests the CAS (cam angle sensor) could this be a possible solution?
 
Hmm i kinda have the same problem just opposite. when my car is cold it will fire and idle for about a minute then die but once it warms up it will idle all day long.
 
Well hot start issues could always be caused by the fuel pressure solenoid. Try bypassing it and see if that solves it.
 
I had this problem. It finally went away. Unfortunately, I never really isolated what the solution was. Here's what I did, however:

1) Changed the PCV valve - seemed to help a little

2) Changed CAS and retimed the engine - old CAS checked out as bad, but still had issues after the change out (Don't forget to check you timing when you do this).

3) Made sure that my 20+ year old hoses on the FPR weren't leaking (thereby reseating the hoses and electrical connections on the solenoid.

4) Changed the battery - The car finally got to a point where it would turn over, but wouldn't start. I put in new battery and now everything is fine.

Good luck!
 
i now have a very similar issue to all of you...
i bought my gsx 3 weeks ago and in the last couple days it takes FOREVER to get the car started. it'll catch for a few hundred RPM's then die unless i mash the gas pedal.
now mine doesn't have an IAC, was just tuned the day before this all started happening and during the tune, towards the end of it the car go a little hot and started heavily missfiring under acceleration.
the guy that was tuning it said its definitely something ignition related, oh and in the process he also blew one of the plugs..
so, we replaced the plugs, wires, swapped out the coil pack, swapped out the ignition control module and still a problem.
i was also monitoring dsmlink yesterday and tried to re time my CAS because at around 1100 rpm the timing was jumping between 5 and 11. (dont think its supposed to do that)
and now the car just wont start today, yesterday it was all fine but now nothing.
anyone fix their problems? is my problem most likely the CAS?
 
Ive had this unresolved issue for awhile: Ill drive my car on my way home from work (40 minutes) its at operating temperature and ill stop at the store go in come out after 20 minutes and it wont start... it'll fire but struggle and then die... i can sometimes by gas'ing it get it to go if not have to wait til it cools longer... I've tried coolant temp sensors ... now someone suggests the CAS (cam angle sensor) could this be a possible solution?

Make sure the fuel pressure solenoid has good vac lines on it. If it does, you may have either a broken FPS or a bad fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail.

When the ECU sees a warm engine temp at start-up, it blocks the FPR from seeing intake manifold vacuum, which increases the fuel pressure on the rail. The increase in rail pressure is used to increase the amount of fuel injected per injector pulse. This quickly re-establishes an intake port wall fuel film.

Under normal engine operation there is always a small amount of fuel film puddling on the intake port wall just ahead of the injector, which evaporates and adds to the fuel entering the engine at the same rate as more film is added by the injector.

When the engine is hot and gets shut off, those same 4 fuel puddles completely evaporate from the radiated engine heat. When you hot-start, the injector will still leave an amount of fuel on the port wall, -but there is none already there to evaporate and add to the intake charge. Also, since the engine is already warm, the ECU won't go into a cold-start fuel enrichment routine.

Hot starting with a non-functioning FPS causes the engine to run lean and have trouble keeping idle speed until the port wall fuel film is re-established, or until the engine's coolant temp drops significantly.

Buy a can of starter spray, run the engine up to operating temp, then shut it off for 15 minutes. Pull off the vac line that attaches to the intake manifold from the FPS and have someone crank the starter while you spray starting fluid into the vac line. Does it start right up?
 
I had the exact same issue on my talon and never resolved it so I'm interested in seeing what the cause is.
 
If you don't have a IAC you will always have trouble starting the car when its cold.

yeah without the iac it is a little harder to start... it takes around 5 or so seconds to get it started instead of turning it a couple times and it goes.
but now im saying like it wont start. at all.
it has spark, and has fuel, it was running the day before just fine so im not doubting compression.
and i checked the timing between cams and crank and its dead on.

the only thing left to my knowledge would be the CAS (for ignition timing).
does this sound correct?
 
So about 4 months ago I had a bad hot start problem. Car would run beautifully until I turned it off and attempted to start it again. It would eventually start but even then it would run like it wasn't firing on all cylinders.
I took some carb cleaner... undid the throttle body... let it soak overnight and cleaned it till it shined. I then took a rag and tried to clean out the inside the best I could. Hooked it up and have not had a hot start issue since.
Before this I ran a bottle of SeaFoam through the car, changed spark plugs, and then the wires. I'm sure it helped the car a little, but in the end the throttle body cleaning did the trick!
 
So about 4 months ago I had a bad hot start problem. Car would run beautifully until I turned it off and attempted to start it again. It would eventually start but even then it would run like it wasn't firing on all cylinders.
I took some carb cleaner... undid the throttle body... let it soak overnight and cleaned it till it shined. I then took a rag and tried to clean out the inside the best I could. Hooked it up and have not had a hot start issue since.
Before this I ran a bottle of SeaFoam through the car, changed spark plugs, and then the wires. I'm sure it helped the car a little, but in the end the throttle body cleaning did the trick!

weird..
good input though.
 
Right... I didn't understand it either. But it's a quick fix... if it works it only cost you $3 for carb cleaner... if not at least you have a clean throttle body.
 
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