2G Hood Shocks struts gas strut

[rEclipserGST]

It shouldnt matter if they are upside down or not. It still will extend its full length. As long as the position on where the rod and bolts are in the same position, it will be the same.

And whoever said something about force & weight of the hood: I think quality of the struts/stocks, oil, and placing of them has everything to do with how fast the hood comes up. Its a combo thing. Plain and simple.

 

[NeMiZiS]

My hood doesn't really fly up that fast.
But mine are mounted differently than the Tein's.
You not supposed to use these with any kind of hood but metal.

 

[DGajre777]

Oh wait do you mean the actual damper is upside down?The compression end is facing down, isn't that how those Teins are mounted?.

Now that I see the pictures on a different computer, yours seem to be mounted like the Teins with the piston part on top and the rod at the bottom. The Teins appear to be longer than yours though which it why I think they are mounted on a different bolt.

 

[pboglio]

It shouldnt matter if they are upside down or not. It still will extend its full length. As long as the position on where the rod and bolts are in the same position, it will be the same.

And whoever said something about force & weight of the hood: I think quality of the struts/stocks, oil, and placing of them has everything to do with how fast the hood comes up. Its a combo thing. Plain and simple.

No, it matters. The gas strut chamber is basically pressurized nitrogen with so many cc's of oil. The ring pack needs oil lubrication and the oil acts as a shock aborber at the end of the stroke as well as dampening during the stroke depending on oil volume. The difference between rod end up or down can be the difference between opening slowly or literally having the gas strut tear itself apart at the end of the stroke. Maximum life occurs when the ring pack is bathed in oil, which means rod end down.

You can run a single gas strut but the loads become very non-symmetrical and highly concentrated in one small area depending on how far away from hood pivot you mount the strut. On a fiberglass or carbon fiber hood this would guarantee a large steel mtg plate required to spread the load. If the door is heavily reinforced like a stocker then you maybe could run a dedicated oil dampening strut on one side, and the dedicated gas strut on the other side. Then you could completely isolate your dampening rate as well as lift force.

 

[Fabian]

I just made my own out of rear hatch struts from an eg civic...cost me $30 and all I had to do was make an "L" shaped bracket to mount it to the fender...they work perfectly, and fit perfectly. The hood lays just as it did without them.

 

[Gamble97]

Pics?

 

[Fabian]

i dont have pics YET but I'll get em up as soon as I can get home. the strut part numbers that I used are 4444 the brackets I made definitely arent strong enough to hold the pressure of the hood on the strut so I have to drill out of the rivets I used and make another L shaped bracket out of a stronger metal.

alright here are the pics.

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[Doubleot]

Humm...
Now I'm getting ideas
All of these kits look pretty useful to me.

 

[Gamble97]

So you just used a piece of metal, bent it up and threw in a rivet?
Where can I buy the shocks from?

 

[talon187]

has any 1g guys done this before ?

 

[Fabian]

So you just used a piece of metal, bent it up and threw in a rivet?
Where can I buy the shocks from?

as I said before in my post above, you can get the struts from any local auto parts store. I actually broke one of the brackets I made that was too weak. So I took that strut off and replaced the other strut's bracket with a thicker metal bracket that I remade and to my suprise the hood actually stays up with just one strut. and it actually closes with less force than using both the struts. So for now, I'm using just the one side.

and to clarify, it takes a little more than bending a piece of metal...you need to measure and set the correct angle for the strut to be mounted. if you angle it too much it wont hold the weight of the hood. if you angle it just about perpendicular to the fender it works perfectly.

 

[Calan]

Damn it... I was planning this and thought I had stumbled onto an original DSM idea...should have known better

We use all sorts of these things at work. The "right" way to do it is to calculate the forces involved at the desired mounting points, and get the properly-sized gas spring.

I'll post up some specs and sources for different springs if/when I get it worked out.

 

[Jeff99GS]

I like this style better. They seem like they are less in the way. Only down side is you have to drill the holes.
95-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse Hood Lift PLUS Gas Strut Shock:eBay Motors (item 280290370806 end time Aug-27-09 09:35:28 PDT)

 

[99gst_racer]

Does anyone know of a set valved for lighter weight hoods?

I'd imagine you wouldn't want the same ones for a CF hood as you would a steel hood.

 

[Fabian]

I like this style better. They seem like they are less in the way. Only down side is you have to drill the holes.

drilling the holes is the easiest part.

Does anyone know of a set valved for lighter weight hoods?

I'd imagine you wouldn't want the same ones for a CF hood as you would a steel hood.

I can honestly say there's no way I'd put a carbon hood on this strut. I definitely think it's too much force for one...But I dunno if I'd trust the ones off ebay or from tein or redline for a carbon hood either seeing as they dont specify which hood to use it on. if you had a carbon hood on these it would take too much force to close the hood again and probably tear through the fiberglass skeleton of the hood.

 

[Jeff99GS]

drilling the holes is the easiest part.
.

Haha I know its easy...but its hard for some of us DSMers to go off drilling HOLES in our car. You know when you drill a hole you are exposing bare metal that has NOT been galvanized or painted. That means the spots you drilled will be the first to rust.

That is why with some of these kits they are utilizing the stock bolts to mount the shocks.

The way they galvanize a car is by fully assembling the unibody structure. The they run it on a cable and dip it right into a big vat of chemicals. This is why the 2g strut towers ALL rot out. There was air pockets trapped in the shock tower when they dipped the cars. They needed to be tipped to let all the air bubbles out.

 

[TSiAWD666]

I picked up the redline tuning struts and installed them yesterday with my carbon fiber hood. Now to be honest my hood isn't the lightest as it sadly has a pretty heavy fiberglass frame on the underside, but these struts are working perfectly so far. They come up slow enough and towards the end slow down a lot so as not to slam open. I'm very happy with these!

If anyone's looking at buying some don't order directly from the company as they charge shipping. If you purchase through other companies (I can't remember where I ordered mine) you can get free shipping and they just drop ship from Redline anyway.

 

[Apeximprt2nr]

Bringing back an old thread. Anyone use the Mynes hood dampers for the EVO 7-9?
They're very popular on EVO's and they look to be a great quality product and they're only $60.

Evo Hood Damper Kit (Nitrogen-filled) for Evo 8-10 - evolutionm.net

 

[tintedglasses12]

I just took the shocks off my hackback of my parts car and put them on

 

[DSM1G90]

With all of this discussion with these hood struts - has there been any re-enforcement done to the side of the hood so you're not actually bending the hood where the struts are attached at-especially where the struts are mounted so far back on the hood? You got plenty of weak spots right there that the hood could actually fold in half there if too much downward pressure is done to close the hood.

..why the prop rod was always the more safest due to a flimsy inner structure with all of the "fold" points in the crossmembers of the hood - which are there incase of a front end collision and the hood just folds back intead of ripping the heads off of the front seat riders when the back of the hood comes crashing thorugh the windshield..

Sorry, not to be a killjoy but the strut idea does look enticing...

Good luck all - DSM

 

[Calan]

One of the best "mods" I've ever done. I found a set at O'Reillys that were the length I needed, although they are just a bit too strong. I'm currently specing in a custom set that I hope to get ordered in the next few weeks.

I cut into the upper rails next to the fender lips, and welded nuts into that and on the hood. The ball studs that come with the springs just screw into the welded nuts.

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[DSM1G90]

Looks good. Wonder, if the pair of struts were too strong, would using just one strut work even though it's only holding up one side? I know about that when I replaced the two struts for the hatchback - it really is a bit to close the rear deck with new struts...

 

[inthecease]

that looks really neat. I kinda want to give it a go.

 

[Calan]

Looks good. Wonder, if the pair of struts were too strong, would using just one strut work even though it's only holding up one side? I know about that when I replaced the two struts for the hatchback - it really is a bit to close the rear deck with new struts...

One of my struts will hold the hood up in a crunch (like when you're working on the other strut ), but it's not optimal. The hood wants to twist due to being supported only on one side.

You really need two struts.

 

[907gs-t]

So, I just bought a hood shock set on E-bay.
It came in today!!
It looks really nice, I got the real carbon fiber shocks.
The kit installs with out drilling holes, it came with instructions.
Plus it came from Japan and it only took about a week to get here!
Here are some pictures of it.
I'll install it tonight and post some installed pictures as well.
The price shipped was 79.99.

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Hey that's the same set i thinking of getting for my ride on love the carbon fiber look no doubt.