The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support STM Tuned

Holset Turbos, PART 8

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Status
Not open for further replies.
My housing came today! It only took two days. Here's a pic of it bolted up. I still want to figure out what fittings are needed to check the oil pressure. I have b-shafts and os. Also it seems like everyone is going with -12an fittings, are these big enough for the drain?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
I'll be selling my 11,000 mile HX35 7 blade with ceramic coated BEP DSM housing and -12 oil drain setup pretty soon.

So watch out for that in the Classifieds. :D
 
My housing came today! It only took two days. Here's a pic of it bolted up. I still want to figure out what fittings are needed to check the oil pressure. I have b-shafts and os. Also it seems like everyone is going with -12an fittings, are these big enough for the drain?

Yeah i told you mine got to me in less than three days :thumb:

I too, need to get a oil pressue/fuel presure guage to measure the oil pressure at the turbo. My big question is how are you going to measure it? All you can do is check pressure at idle and then free rev it unless you had access to a dyno??? I'm guessing it would be a trip to home depot checking fittings in the plumbing section for a while.

As for the oil drain line, Holset spec if I recall was a hair under -12AN, so that's why a lot of people go that route. You would have to weld on a 12AN fitting on your oil pan to run that large though. I believe the biggest you can run an adapter to your un-modified oil pan is -10AN.
 
Yes, the minimum required drain size is 19mm per the Holset Repair Manual. This is just about -12an. And, yes the oil pan hole is 14.88mm wide.

Why are you selling, jjrock5?
 
Long story short, I'm random as hell and my buddy and I made bet saying that I couldnt get 400 WHP out of the FP Green that I have. Well I think I can, so I bolted up the Green, no more need for the Holset so maybe somebody can get some use out of it. It'd just collect dust with me and money wouldnt collect as much dust. :D

I'll try to get my classidieds post tonight with a bunch of pics. Keep boostin guys!
 
Long story short, I'm random as hell and my buddy and I made bet saying that I couldnt get 400 WHP out of the FP Green that I have. Well I think I can, so I bolted up the Green, no more need for the Holset so maybe somebody can get some use out of it. It'd just collect dust with me and money wouldnt collect as much dust. :D

I'll try to get my classidieds post tonight with a bunch of pics. Keep boostin guys!

I don't see why you wouldn't be able to make over 400whp on the Green.
 
Yea, either would do that easily with the stock manifolds. Either HAVE done that with the stock manifolds several times. You should do a comparison of the two infact :)
 
Proud owner of a 160k mile 7 blade hx35 :D Amazed that the thrust bearing had NO wear whatsoever and only a small amount of up and down. Same condition thrust bearing in another 180k mile one, too.

Gathering up some materials to make a twin scroll mani to utilize the stock housing. Really itching to get started... Many track runs and dyno pulls are promised once it's on. Still saving up yet for a 38mm tial, head flange, twin scroll t3 flange and some weld els then I can get to mocking everything.

Nearly double the flow potential of a 14b :hellyeah:
 
Amazed that the thrust bearing had NO wear whatsoever and only a small amount of up and down. Same condition thrust bearing in another 180k mile one, too.
This never ceases to amaze me. I could literally count on one hand how many Holsets I've rebuilt because they had in/out play....most of the time it's always up/down play, which is understandable. These turbos have AMAZING thrust systems!

So much better than Garrett it's not even funny! LOL

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/344931-whats-deal-garrett-t3-thrust-plates.html
 
Proud owner of a 160k mile 7 blade hx35 :D Amazed that the thrust bearing had NO wear whatsoever and only a small amount of up and down. Same condition thrust bearing in another 180k mile one, too.

Gathering up some materials to make a twin scroll mani to utilize the stock housing. Really itching to get started... Many track runs and dyno pulls are promised once it's on. Still saving up yet for a 38mm tial, head flange, twin scroll t3 flange and some weld els then I can get to mocking everything.

Nearly double the flow potential of a 14b :hellyeah:

I am looking forward to seeing your hx35 build get started and to see the results! I am sure you will meet or most likely exceed your goals. I will most likely eventually get a 44m wastegate so you can get my 38mm from me.
 
Matt, don't forget to fab a divider all the way to the gate flange and seal it against the gate valve. I'm just running two gates for the ease of construction.
 
Matt, don't forget to fab a divider all the way to the gate flange and seal it against the gate valve. I'm just running two gates for the ease of construction.

A la evo9 wastegate passage :) It's definitely in the plan



You know how impatient I am Kenny :p I would be more than happy to make the 44mm work on the setup you have now but can't wait till the BW is on.
 
guys, any feedback on this ebay sold holset
HOLSET HX35/40 KILLER HIGH PERFORMANCE TURBOCHARGER: eBay Motors (item 220610716222 end time May-30-10 16:43:46 PDT)
Compressor Housing: "Fully Ported" Holset HX Series with 4" (102.6mm) Inlet and 2.5" (63.5mm) Regular Hose Outlet.

Compressor Wheel: "High Efficiency" 7- Bladed Wheel with 2.365" (60mm) Inducer "Small side" and 3.387" (86mm) Exducer "Large side".

Turbine Housing: Holset 12cm^ Housing with standard T3 "Divided" Inlet and 2.5" V-Band Outlet.

Turbine Wheel: "High Flow" Wheel with 2.360" (59.9mm) Exducer "Small side" and 2.755" (70mm) Inducer "Large side".

is it a hx40 fully or is it coupled with a hx35 turbine wheel ?

thanks
 
I have had both. I'm currently on a HX35 now. Going to swap back to the hybrid here in the next few weeks. I can tell the difference on the spool up on the HX35 vs hybrid HX40/35 the HX35 is more linear to me. As to where the hybrid just smacks u back in the seat. The hybrid hits harder in my opinion. Waiting for new clutch disk to come in and will post some logs with both turbos. When I make the swap back to the hybrid. Which should be soon. Sent the turbo to Justin should have it back soon.. By the way if anyone needs a turbo rebuild.. Justin is the man to call. Great Customer Service and fair prices..:thumb:
 
I have had both. I'm currently on a HX35 now. Going to swap back to the hybrid here in the next few weeks. I can tell the difference on the spool up on the HX35 vs hybrid HX40/35 the HX35 is more linear to me. As to where the hybrid just smacks u back in the seat. The hybrid hits harder in my opinion. Waiting for new clutch disk to come in and will post some logs with both turbos. When I make the swap back to the hybrid. Which should be soon. Sent the turbo to Justin should have it back soon.. By the way if anyone needs a turbo rebuild.. Justin is the man to call. Great Customer Service and fair prices..:thumb:

haha i wish i could find a hx40 6or7 blade for justin to work on
but seems like its pretty hard to find
 
I have had both. I'm currently on a HX35 now. Going to swap back to the hybrid here in the next few weeks. I can tell the difference on the spool up on the HX35 vs hybrid HX40/35 the HX35 is more linear to me. As to where the hybrid just smacks u back in the seat. The hybrid hits harder in my opinion. Waiting for new clutch disk to come in and will post some logs with both turbos. When I make the swap back to the hybrid. Which should be soon. Sent the turbo to Justin should have it back soon.. By the way if anyone needs a turbo rebuild.. Justin is the man to call. Great Customer Service and fair prices..:thumb:

I agree! +1
 
I too, need to get a oil pressue/fuel presure guage to measure the oil pressure at the turbo. My big question is how are you going to measure it? All you can do is check pressure at idle and then free rev it unless you had access to a dyno??? I'm guessing it would be a trip to home depot checking fittings in the plumbing section for a while.

I'm going to go ahead and order the -12 flange adapter for the return and have a -12 welded to the pan. Not sure on the fitting yet though.

As far as the oil pressure I haven't been able to find a -4 tee that has a spot for the gauge. I did find a -6 but no -4...
 
I just got done bolting up my hx35 and turned it on no smoke or anything. I also just have an elbow pointing down for exhaust right now sounds mean. I love how it keeps spinning for at least ten seconds after shutting off the motor. Hopefully its not too laggy.
 
Well. I'm in the process of installing my holset. Been running into some problems. This is on a 92 tsi awd.

First. The water lines. I know you have to dent the water pipe. My problem is the fitting nut thing that conneted to the stock turbo water line. Well this fitting thing gets on the way and won't allow me to fit the turbo correctly. I already grinded this thing and its still on the way. Are you guys completely removing this fitting water line connetor? If so, then how are you plugging the hole that the fitting left.

Second question. For those that still have the stock water based oil cooler. How are you routing the water line that goes along the block behind the turbo?

My third question is: For those that have the FP race manifold. How are you guys torquing down the nuts? (Manifold to head studs/nuts)??. It seems that there is no way on using a torque wrench for those nuts. Maybe the bottom ones but not the top 4 nuts. It seems like you can only use an open box wrench for these. Or am I wrong? If so, then how are you guys going about in torquing the manifold nuts??

Thanks.
 
I just got done bolting up my hx35 and turned it on no smoke or anything. I also just have an elbow pointing down for exhaust right now sounds mean. I love how it keeps spinning for at least ten seconds after shutting off the motor. Hopefully its not too laggy.

Don't worry, i upgraded to the 7 blade HX35 from a 14b and I'm happy. Full boost before 4,000 rpm. :thumb:

Well. I'm in the process of installing my holset. Been running into some problems. This is on a 92 tsi awd.

First. The water lines. I know you have to dent the water pipe. My problem is the fitting nut thing that conneted to the stock turbo water line. Well this fitting thing gets on the way and won't allow me to fit the turbo correctly. I already grinded this thing and its still on the way. Are you guys completely removing this fitting water line connetor? If so, then how are you plugging the hole that the fitting left.

Second question. For those that still have the stock water based oil cooler. How are you routing the water line that goes along the block behind the turbo?

My third question is: For those that have the FP race manifold. How are you guys torquing down the nuts? (Manifold to head studs/nuts)??. It seems that there is no way on using a torque wrench for those nuts. Maybe the bottom ones but not the top 4 nuts. It seems like you can only use an open box wrench for these. Or am I wrong? If so, then how are you guys going about in torquing the manifold nuts??

Thanks.
1) Is the "fitting nut thing connected to the water pipe" that you're referring to the one that sits directly behind the compressor housing of the HX35 when you mount it? If so, i had to remove the stock 14b water line from it, plug it with the large bolt i bought from extremepsi.com: EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Water Pipe Bolt Plug : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 Turbo and then remove the bolt that holds the water pipe bracket to the block, hog/egg out the bolt hole on the bracket so that i could lower or raise the water pipe a bit, and then angle the bottom of the water pipe towards the block more as the area where the bolt is installed hits the compressor.

If your referring to the other stock coolant line over by the thermostat housing, i had to bend that line a bit to fit and then looped a rubber hose i believe.

2) I still run a stock '91-94 water cooled oil cooler at the oil filter housing. This means that we have a second water line which prevents us from being able to swap in a N/T water pipe unless you upgrade to a aftermarket or '90 air cooled oil cooler. This is why i had to buy that large bolt from extreme and plug the water pipe.

3)As for the manifold, i think that question is about the same for most cast dsm manifolds. Just tighten them down evenly like you would and intake/exhaust manifold or lug nuts on a wheel, making sure not to tighten one side too much and doing it evenly. Use what ever works for you, but yes you're right, a torque wrench isn't really possible so use your best judgment.

4) Did you already hack the living hell out of the front engine mount? I know i had to on my '92. Also, if you don't get a slim fan, you will have to mod/hack your stock cooling fan to the point where it looks like it went through a giant paper shredder, but mine works and still keeps temps down. Super ghetto though LOL

Maybe these pics will help, if not, they sure do look cool.
 

Attachments

  • HX35 on car 2.jpg
    HX35 on car 2.jpg
    34 KB · Views: 1,616
  • HX35 on car 4.jpg
    HX35 on car 4.jpg
    32.2 KB · Views: 1,638
Last edited:
Well. I'm in the process of installing my holset. Been running into some problems. This is on a 92 tsi awd.

First. The water lines. I know you have to dent the water pipe. My problem is the fitting nut thing that conneted to the stock turbo water line. Well this fitting thing gets on the way and won't allow me to fit the turbo correctly. I already grinded this thing and its still on the way. Are you guys completely removing this fitting water line connetor? If so, then how are you plugging the hole that the fitting left.

Second question. For those that still have the stock water based oil cooler. How are you routing the water line that goes along the block behind the turbo?

My third question is: For those that have the FP race manifold. How are you guys torquing down the nuts? (Manifold to head studs/nuts)??. It seems that there is no way on using a torque wrench for those nuts. Maybe the bottom ones but not the top 4 nuts. It seems like you can only use an open box wrench for these. Or am I wrong? If so, then how are you guys going about in torquing the manifold nuts??

Thanks.
Save yourself the big headache and get rid of it all go to the junkyard and get a nonturbo water pipe and thermostat housing no plugging up anything and looks a lot cleaner.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top