The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

2G High Rev, Missed Gear, No Start

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

theoneandonlyg

Proven Member
33
0
Mar 13, 2013
Ludlow, Massachusetts
Hi guys,

So I have a 97 GSX with a few mods which can be found in my profile. But for the most part besides my 3.5" turbo back exhaust, the car is pretty much stock. So I was doing a pull next to a buddy of mine that just bought a new Lexus RC350 F-Sport.(couldn't resist). I went to shift into 2nd at moderately high rpms(5-6k) and I missed the gear. As soon as this happened my car died. There was no smoke, no jerking, no foul smells, I just lost all power and coasted to a stop. Now the car will crank but won't start at all. I'm going to be checking the timing when I get a chance tomorrow but was wondering what everyone thought.

Is there a possibility something in the ECU may have fried? Also I unplugged the battery and tried to start but it was the same result. I forgot to read the codes before I unplugged the battery so I am unsure whether there is a new code or not. My car currently has a code for the EGR because I deleted it so I don't know if there was an additional CEL or not. Any help or insight is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Paul
 
Same thing happened when I dropped a valve in my car. It hit the piston and then blew out one of my plugs causing the car to instantly die. If you can't find an issue with the electronics pull the plugs and stick a bore scope in there.
 
When I say I missed a gear I mean that I let off the clutch before it was fully in gear and over revved. It's horrible because I just recently pulled my head and rebuilt my whole valvetrain due to exhaust valves detonating less than 3k miles ago

EDIT: tylersevo did this make a loud noise at all? I figured I would hear a valve hitting a piston but don't remember any loud noises.
 
Last edited:
Nope. Motor just died instantly pulling away from a stoplight. I had just done a pull before I came up on the red light and didn't notice anything unusual.
 
Check all your fuses under the hood, maybe just blew the ignition fuse but check them all and cross your fingers its just something simple. Do you have any spark? And are you getting fuel?
 
It's horrible because I just recently pulled my head and rebuilt my whole valvetrain due to exhaust valves detonating less than 3k miles ago

^ I'd be willing to bet you'll be doing this again sooner than you expected.

I'd start by doing the easy check; rolling the motor and verifying the mechanical timing is still on. Then, as donniekak suggested, pull the plugs and do a compression test. It's highly likely you could have floated a valve(s) which caused them to contact the pistons. That would mean you effectively bent one or multiple valves. Low to no compression would back this diagnosis up. You can follow the compression test up with a leakdown test to try and pinpoint which valves were damaged.

I think it's unlikely much else would suddenly go wrong after the events you've described. My money says bent valves.
 
Okay guys so I have an update. Yesterday I went to check for spark since it's the easiest next step and none of my plugs had spark. I think it would be pretty unlikely for both coils to go at the same time, so I'm leaning to the ignition power transistor now. I read that a transistor that is on it's way out causes loss of power and long crank times. My car always took a few cranks to start and would struggle uphill under stress.

I will be pulling the transistor and coils out today and testing with a multimeter. I'm also going to check compression after installing a new transistor. Any other thoughts or input?

Also, where is the ignition fuse located?
 
I "think" it is next to the battery, on the cable on a little box, but can't honestly say since I have a '90 but a quick google search showed that. Boy I sure hope that's what it is. At least that's why I said it in my prior post since it is a easy thing to check. I'm pulling for you that it is something simple!!!
 
For me when I had the car suddenly die it's been something electrical:
1) ptu harness disconnected because the clip had broken and it had just finally worked its way loose (fixed by using zip ties to hold it tight until I replaced the plug)
2) Crank position sensor finally died after being hit enough by the crank trigger plate. The plate had been bent ever so slightly on install (crankshaft end play was fine) and it finally wore down and made the cps fail.
3) Wire pulled loose out of the camshaft position sensor because the wiring had been routed in such a bad way that it was taught, and eventually it just pulled out.

I would check electrical connections to coil pack, ptu, cas, and cps, and if none of those appear disconnected in anyway (ideally you do a continuity check, but at a minimum visually check wires, and disconnect/reconnect the plugs) then I'd start testing those units per service manual tests and/or replacing with verified known good working parts.

I really doubt you did anything mechanical given the symptoms.
 
+2 on the above. :thumb:
 
Timing belt isn't broken but I have another update. I pulled off the ignition coils and ignition power transistor. I put a multimeter to the coils and tested primary resistance. It's supposed to be between .7-.8ohms and the values I got for both coils were around 1.7. Pretty strange that they're both no good.. Does anyone know how to test the power transistor? I was just curious but I'm ordering new coils and a new transistor
 
Okay so another update here. I replaced both ignition coils and the ignition power transistor. After still having no spark I went out and bought a new camshaft position sensor. Still no start. Now what do I do? I'm trying to find someone with a compression tester but in the mean time what are some suggestions?
 
I would rent one from any auto store, or purchase one for 40 bucks nice investment to have when working on cars, not just yours but anyones you may help In the past. It will help you out a lot down the road.
 
Sounds like you're up to crank position sensor, if your balance shaft belt went it could bend you crank position sensor plate which could take out your crank position sensor. You'd have to remove your lower timing belt cover to see if this happened. Also did you verify the cam marks with the crank at TDC, you could have skipped timing without breaking the belt.
 
i think the balance shaft broke and took out the crank sensor . try to scan it for any codes . if the crank sensor went you should have a code.
 
Thank you everyone for your suggestions along the way. I am dreading doing the compression test because I am fearing the worst, but I will be doing the test today and I'll post up results. If results are good I will be looking into the crankshaft position sensor and my ecu. I will also verify that my timing marks line up after this compression test.

God DSM's are difficult sometimes! The worst part is everyone I know says to buy a new car haha. They just don't understand
 
I already replaced the camshaft position sensor. And I'm unsure of when both of these sensors were replaced last so I'm not complaining I guess. I can't scan for codes because I've already disconnected the battery..
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top