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Harmonic Balancer failure..again NAPA Dorman

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kalitzki

Probationary Member
12
1
Jan 19, 2006
Des Moines, Iowa
About a month ago, i learned that my harmonic balancer had faild after investigating a wierd knock. The rubber had deteriorated and the outer ring of metal had seperated and started slapping the crank case. Took it off and replaced it with one from NAPA, and within a day I could hear that same knocking noise. The replacement failed just like the first one did. Went back to napa and got another thinking that i could have possibly overtightened the belts. Replaced the replacement part and it was good. Now a few weeks later it has happened again. No bent pullys or overtightening. The manufacturer states that "because of my 600 watt amp, the alternator may be pulling too hard causing the balancer to fail." I know alot of people running big amps that have never had a problem like this. Im looking for any information that may help me out. Not interested in fluid balancers, i just want to know why im burning through facotry parts when i shouldnt be. Thanks in advance and sorry about the long story.
:dsm:
 
Just get the oem one, and call it a day.

Where can I buy the oem one online? How much are they? Is the first link the oem? I never went to the dealership for anything but is that where I need to go to get the oem harmonic damper? Are they around $170 from the stealership??
 
and don't have to buy a stock one again. My car went thru three stock harmonic balancers before I switched to Fluidamper and haven't had a problem since.

Im selling the car to my cousin so I will either go with the $58 one on ebay or the dealership one. I have a really nice complete 6 bolt engine that im gonna rebuild when I find a nice gsx shell. Is the ebay one different from the dealership harmonic damper? I knew $58 was to good to be true.
 
and don't have to buy a stock one again. My car went thru three stock harmonic balancers before I switched to Fluidamper and haven't had a problem since.

By stock, do you mean aftermarket replacement, or OEM? I've never killed one, and I've been driving cars with 4G61s and 4G63s for at least ten years. I beat the spit out of my engines too. I'm not saying they don't fail; I've replaced at least a half dozen on customers 4G63s before. I'm knocking on wood now.

To answer the OP: If you can afford the fluidamper, by all means go for it!
 
I was low on funds and needed a new one asap, so I picked up one of the cheap ass ebay ones for 60 shipped. Its been fine so far. Once it starts going I'll be picking up a Fuidamper for sure.
 
Ditto.


If you're just fixing to sell, go with the cheap one though.

Im selling it to my cousin so I dont want the fluidampr because of the price. Im gonna go with the ebay one and if it goes anytime soon I will never buy another part from ebay. Thanks for the help guys :thumb:
 
Ive had 2 dsms never had a problem yet with the oem, and many of my dsm friends have had good luck, they break but for my goals i dont need to spend money on that.
 
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