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GSTwithPSI Galant VR4 1837 of 2000

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@GST with PSI
Brett, you have I think the best photo I've ever seen of the timing belt end of the engine, when it was clean and out of the car. But the photo I get by copying it from the page is only 385 x 685 pixels and 79 KB. Is there a way you could send me that jpeg file full size, just the way it came out of your camera? I could PM my email address to you if that is the best way. The photo is in your post #102 in this thread.

Or you could post it to your google+ page. They have recently upgraded their picture handling. Used to be they would automatically dumb-down your photo a little if it was bigger than about 1.5 MB. Now the limit is so high I haven't even found it. You could post a 10 MB pic there and I could get it back out just the way you put it in. You could even post a photo onto my g+ page as a reply in any one of my "Public" posts (not in a community), and it will show as a thumbnail but it will open up full-blast and download full size.
 
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I've been slacking updating this, So...




Added a Dynatek ARC-2 CDI box
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Installed a Aeromotive 14105 fuel rail.
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Also replaced the Muteki lugs with some project Kics Leggdura 2 piece lug nuts so nobody gets a free set of wheels.
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Better updates coming soon :sneaky:
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Nice looking stuff!
When you use the ARC-2, do you still need the stock power transistor - or is that eliminated?

The PTU is still retained.

I installed the unit using Dynatek's PnP 2G install kit. It's worth mentioning for others who do the same thing, the tach adapter I received with the 2G install kit was DOA right out of the box. My tach would not read correctly with the ARC-2 hooked up. The car ran fine, but the tach was reading about half what it should have been for a given RPM. I contacted Dynatek about the issue, and with some prodding, got them to send me a new tach adapter. What's strange is the techs at Dynatek who tested were saying it was good. After some back and forth with tech support, they finally sent me another new adapter. I installed the new adapter and the problem was immediately fixed.




Very nice. I think I may get an ARC-2 soon.

FWIW, the ARC-2 box is one of the few mods where I could immediately see an obvious difference in not only performance, but driveability as well. The car pulls noticeably harder and cleaner, especially toward redline. My idle has also significantly improved. Results may very, but I'm very impressed with the unit.
 
Awesome. That's what I've heard. Do you feel it's worth it to move up to COP in addition?

I don't think you'd gain either way, whether on a stock coil or COP setup with the CDI box. It's nice to eliminate plug wires, though. It's more just personal preference which way to go with the CDI box. The CDI box isn't really needed at my power level, it's just nice to have. There are quite a few guys making big power with big boost on stock coils. The COP isn't as stout, though, so a CDI box should be paired up with one at lower power levels compared to what the stock coil will support.




You show a .018" spark plug gap in your profile. Would you use a wider gap than that now, with the ARC-2 and the COPs?
The better running you are noticing now with the ARC-2, is that still with a .018" plug gap?

I'm still gapped at .018", but the next time I pull the plugs I'm going to open them up some. I just haven't got around to doing it yet. Also, I don't like to mess with the electrode once the plug has been ran, so I need to order new plugs...And Iridium plugs aren't cheap.
 
Well, finally decided to man up and install the new trans and turbo setup. These parts have been sitting in the garage for almost a year now, so I figured it was about time they get put to use.

I started off by pulling the old trans, and installing a new to me Shep "stage 2" box. Specs according to the build sheet I have are:

• Shep stage II transmission:
--- New input shaft
--- New 3-4 hub/sleeve
--- New 3-4 fork
--- New DSM 3-4 gears
--- Double 2-3 synchros
--- Welded center diff
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So, I got to work pulling the old trans. The my clutch has been good, so I didn't have any reason to touch it. I did install a new ACT release bearing, as well as a Competition Clutch forged steel release fork & pivot ball, though.
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A little tidbit... The @Turbo Performance manifold blankets are awesome. Mine is going on a few years old now, and it's still holding up pretty good! I did lose a grommet, but after eleventy million heat cycles and pulling this on and off the car nearly a dozen times, this thing has held up really damn good. You can see in the last few pictures in this post how it looks like new with a fresh coat of VHT Flameproof.
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Well, onto the turbo stuff... A Forced Performance 3052 ball bearing turbo has replaced the 68HTA V2. I decided to pair this up with a Forced Performance 3" cast recirculated V-band O2 housing and Tial 44mm wastegate.
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Here's the FP3052 compared to the 68HTA V2:
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Once I got the turbo all bolted up, it was time to reconfigure the exhaust and hot side intercooler piping.
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At this stage in my life, I'm tired of f***ing with 2 bolt flanges and gaskets. Since the car is apart and I'm having to reconfigure everything, I wanted to take the opportunity to go to V-band flanges where possible. So, I converted the downpipe and hot side intercooler piping.
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Once everything was welded up, it was time to install and check for fitment.
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While the car was down, I also did some work to the front brakes. I gave the calipers a fresh coat of paint, and cleaned up the front hubs. I also installed new StopTech Sport drilled & slotted brake rotors and Hawk HP Plus pads.
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After all that, I primed the new turbo, and took it out for a drive. The car runs awesome, and the top end has drastically improved. As with any new setup, I'm still working out some small bugs, but hopefully in the coming weeks I have some hard performance data to share. Hopefully, trips to the dyno and track are in the near future.

As always, thanks for following the build!
 
No, I didn't have any issues. Everything seems to be sealed up nice and tight.
 
That's a handsome offer, but I think I'll pass. I will say, the 68HTA V2 is a capable turbo all things considered. I liked it a lot. It's perfect for bridging that gap between the E316G and some of the other more involved bolt-on turbo setups.

The 68HTA will stay on the shelf for a bit. Maybe 820 will get some upgrades in the future :sneaky:

The new pads are awesome. I'm moving back to SoCal here soon, and I wanted something that would hold up decent at a road course outing (hopefully I get to do some). They are a bit squeaky when cold, but they grab nice when they are good and hot. I wouldn't recommend them for a street car, but for something you drive and take to an occasional track/autox/whatever day, they should work well.
 
That is some great looking stuff.
The 3" recirculated O2 housing looks real nice and it seems to me those are not available any more? How long ago did you buy that?
There are times I wish I had a nice clean recirc setup like that, because the noise from an open dump is sort of cop bait I think.

You have the sideways 1990 OEM oil filter setup just like me don't you? I kind of thought that the FP30 turbine housing with that 3 inch O2 housing would not clear that oil filter setup.
 
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I bought the O2 housing a probably 6 months ago from a guy in one of the Facebook groups. I have enough issues with heat, I wouldn't want an open dump anywhere on the car to be honest.

The turbo setup clears my 90 OFH just fine. I didn't have any clearance issues. I did have to ditch one of my fans, however. I should have an update on how I'm addressing that hopefully soon.
 
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I did have to ditch one of my fans, however. I should have an update on how I'm addressing that hopefully soon.

Would it help any if the pipe from compressor outlet to intercooler was a low route instead of a high route?

Fans, wow. That was the last issue that Lucas worked on with my car. He is very much into keeping coolant and engine bay temps way down. He wanted 3 fans on the car, all fans running all the time. The only fan he could fit in on the driver's side behind the radiator was a little 9" thin fan. He said I would laugh when I saw it. But I didn't laugh. And now I really value that fan because it is blowing air directly at the alternator and PS pump and they need all the help they can get, there in the stock position.
 
Would it help any if the pipe from compressor outlet to intercooler was a low route instead of a high route?

Fans, wow. That was the last issue that Lucas worked on with my car. He is very much into keeping coolant and engine bay temps way down. He wanted 3 fans on the car, all fans running all the time. The only fan he could fit in on the driver's side behind the radiator was a little 9" thin fan. He said I would laugh when I saw it. But I didn't laugh. And now I really value that fan because it is blowing air directly at the alternator and PS pump and they need all the help they can get, there in the stock position.

The intercooler piping isn't the issue. The Galant VR-4 just has significantly less clearance between the motor and core support compared to the 1g or 2g DSMs. So, the turbine housing and wastegate are positioned too close to the radiator to fit a fan on the front side.

Regarding fans, I agree with the sentiment. I'm not sure 3 fans is the solution to my problem, but adequate airflow provided by quality fans is a must for any build. I have 2 Spal fans, one 12" puller, and I just reconfigured my 13" Spal fan to sit in front of the A/C condenser as a pusher. I haven't tested out the new configuration yet, but I'm hoping for good results.

While trying to keep my own under-hood temps down, I picked up a @Turbo Performance manifold blanket a few years ago, and it made me a believer. Now, I'm running a DEI Titanium wrapped downpipe, a Turbo Performance exhaust manifold blanket, and also just ordered a PTP FP30 turbine housing blanket. Once I have everything installed, I'll report back with some real world results. It's hot as hell here now, so the test environment is about as good as it gets.
 
While trying to keep my own under-hood temps down, I picked up a @Turbo Performance manifold blanket a few years ago, and it made me a believer. Now, I'm running a DEI Titanium wrapped downpipe, a Turbo Performance exhaust manifold blanket, and also just ordered a PTP FP30 turbine housing blanket. Once I have everything installed, I'll report back with some real world results. It's hot as hell here now, so the test environment is about as good as it gets.

I'm glad to know about those wraps, they look pretty interesting.
I see the manifold blanket has 1/2" thick silica insulation, and the "Titanium" wrap is made out of "pulverized lava rock, stranded into fiber material then woven into a tight weave."
I also see that Turbo Performance makes a blanket for T3 turbine housings, should work on mine.
I hope to not be flame-testing my engine bay ever again.

Yes I see mid 80's around your place.
High 80's here now. Time for a bike ride!
Ok it's 96 here now. Yikes.
 
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Still playing with the new setup, but so far this FP3052 is pretty legit. Anybody want a turbo that makes 30 PSI by 4K RPM?

upload_2017-6-25_20-20-45.png
 
Still playing with the new setup, but so far this FP3052 is pretty legit. Anybody want a turbo that makes 30 PSI by 4K RPM?

View attachment 337678
Hey G, i noticed your pull afr and WB are similar to mine , as in your {actual} interpolates back and forth
(up an down)on Your { expected }.

I assume thats normal and perhaps unlikely to have it macth near perfect ?
 
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