Good price on block rebuild

[Biddy420]

hey guys odd question, got my 6 bolt block at machine shop being built just wondering how these prices are looking to u guys. I plan on having a 7 bolt head rebuilt also to pair with the block and just wondering if these guys prices are good or I should take head somewhere else


Quick rundown:

- Disassemble crank, oil squirters, covers and plugs from block: $80

- Jet spray block: $60

- Hot tank crank: $30

- Cleanup hone 4cyl block: $75

- Remove copper o-ring, sand deck, install new copper wire: $75

- Short block assembly: 5 hours / $500 (includes measuring all parts, fitting pistons to bores, rods to crank, ring end gap, etc.)

- Re-ground (.010" / .010") crank: $130

- Rod & main bearings, .010" under: $120

- Skirt coating on pistons: $100 (all four)

Optional (online retailers usually have better prices):

ARP Main Studs: $80

ARP Head Studs: $100

Kiggly crank trigger sensor: $175

 

[Biddy420]

Also they are installing my new eagle rods and mahle motorsports pistons they wanted to coat piston skirts for a tighter fit they said

 

[Biddy420]

The re ground crank is also theirs they said mine needed to be re ground and they had one at shop ready to go already and asked if they could use that. They said it would be same price either way and theirs would be in better shape/ less ground then they would have to do mine.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I don't think it is out of line. You have $1525 in all of that so for a short block, if you can't build it yourself, the price isn't bad. I will have that much in my head in a month or so, so I sure can't gripe. I would go ahead and put a Kiggly Main Girdle on if you are doing all the rest. It is the only thing I see that maybe you should add if you can afford it. The crank trigger is up to you, and maybe it will work better than a CAS in your set up. I am still using the Green Top Cas .

 

[Biddy420]

Yeah I’m gonna be running a 7 bolt head so the trigger is just mainly so it’s a direct plug and play swap. But thanks for the input I will deff order up the girdle wasn’t sure how much I would need it or not but hey stronger always better got a lot into the rods and pistons so deff worth keeping them safe.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I think you will have piece of mind with the other parts, having a girdle to keep things nice and tight. I run a 7 bolt head also, so remember to have the head bolt/stud holes enlarged for the 6 bolt stuff. I would do the oil port mod on the head and would also smooth the oil passages in the front of the block before the front cover goes on. Consider a Kiggly HLA regulator if you are not running balance shafts so you keep more oil in the pan and not in the head.

 

[Biddy420]

Thanks man. Yeah I’m sending the head to strictly most likely for stage 1 build they said it would only be $50 extra to make the stud holes bigger for the swap and they include the oil mods as part of the package. I will deff add the hla to the list for head.

 

[Gandalf]

i wouldn't undercut the crank, they are cutting off the hardened layer making it weak. I also wouldn't coat the pistons to get a tighter fit, that's ridiculous. You should get .010 or .020 over pistons and have the cylinders bored to match. Make sure he is using bearings such as ACL race bearings, not oem or topline. Is there a good reason why the crank can't be polished? what is the condition of the thrust surface on the crank's center bearing race?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I have to debate the "cut crank" deal. These cranks are just like any other. You can cut them and run them without a problem. I have had literally dozen's of cranks cut .010 and made BIG hp with them. The whole crank is hard not just the surface of the journals. The factory had to cut them to begin with. I find no nitriding or any other surface materials on any cranks I have used, just to clarify.

 

[bastarddsm]

The stock 6 bolt cranks are nitrided. 100% certain without doubt. Nitride is thin, grinding .010 under may be through it in some spots. I've never ran a ground crank, and actually I've never seen one that actually needed ground. They just don't wear much.

Anyway, lots of guys run ground cranks with good results. The nitride doesn't add any strength to the crank, it only provides a hard surface that resists wear.

As for coating the pistons, ehh jury is out. But I can tell you if your motor has worn bores and you have new pistons and they are trying to coat them to take up excess clearance I wouldn't do that. I would just find a new block, or get new pistons the next size up.

See if you can find out what the ptw will be after the clean up hone the block. Mahle pistons are 4032 so they run a little less clearance than the .004-.005 that at 2618 piston would need. Your mahles probably want .0025-.003. I would guess.

What do they mean by sand the deck? Clean it up with a sanding block, or belt sander surface. If its a belt sander surfacer take your things and run.

Last tip, if you install ARP main studs you need the block line honed, and at the very least checked. The ARP studs squeeze the caps harder and can pull the main bores out of round.

What machine shop are you using? Is it a place that specializes in race motors/or dsm stuff? OR is it a little shop in the back of a carquest?

There are several other places I'd recommend going if they don't know dsm's by heart. Personally I deal with and old timer in Rockford that doesn't do any 4g's besides me. The key here is that I know what I want, and he listens. My motors run good and last.

If you don't know what you need/want, and know how to tell that you are getting what you want, than you need to go to a machine shop that knows 4g's in and out and can make decisions for you.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Thanks for the input, I agree totally and am glad you pointed out all the "little stuff" and major points too.
He's a "sub4" car guy so I think its good advice.

 

[Biddy420]

That was just a break down on price he sent me. It’s apex auto machine out of bensenville they are very familiar with the motor. In fact when I brought mine in they had over 10 of them there some cement filled race motors some stock rebuids, they are decking surface for mls gasket think they worded it funny. The block was .20 over the pistons are .20 over he said they are a exact 100% to spec fit but when he Hones the block they will be a tad looser and that the coating would make up any difference after the home to make it exact fit again. My crank was bad there was pretty bad scoring on one journal he said was .015 lower then the others they offers to mil it down .015 or I could pay same for the one they had freshly machined there that was only .010 under I chose the lesser of the 2 since price was the same