Full led replacement

[Bud92gsx]

Ya sorry man.. I wrote this and kinda forgot to update it.

Which bulb do you need that i did not list?
?
The instrument cluster ones,i just said f it..And retrofitted the led strips into my cluster.

 

[sincitydru]

Ya sorry man.. I wrote this and kinda forgot to update it.

Which bulb do you need that i did not list?
?
The instrument cluster ones,i just said f it..And retrofitted the led strips into my cluster.

Lighted key ring, and thank you by the way for the list. I'm about to order the whole cars lighting any up to date tips, tricks to converting to led.?

 

[Bud92gsx]

The key ring is just a standard t5..

 

[sincitydru]

I just installed all exterior led's and some interior.(overhead, kick panels, and trunk area)
Looks really good. Decently enhanced the over look of the car. Going to do my dash and hvac when I install my stereo.
Thank you for all the help and listing of bulbs.

One thing should be noted my reverse lights are not 1156 they are like a 921 style.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Yeah I know I missed the reverse lights..I havnt been too concerned with those.

 

[93_dsm_laser]

Links??? To LEDs

 

[Bud92gsx]

Sharp hid is a good place to start ,,OR..I should start putting together kits and selling them.

Pm me I might have a set laying around.

 

[SharpHID]

Sharp hid is a good place to start ,,OR..I should start putting together kits and selling them.

Pm me I might have a set laying around.

We should be getting kits together shortly. There have been many other irons in the fire. However we do sell all the pieces you need on the site: LEDs.

John

 

[30EWY30]

Where's the link??????

 

[LandoAWD]

In the post directly above yours. It's the word highlighted in blue you can click on...

 

[98Spyder_GS]

If you can get a kit together for the 2g Id be interested. About how much did you spend for all the interior bulbs you switched out shipped? Also, so as stated earlier, every lit bulb is accounted for for the interior except for the climate control lights? Or did you already figure that out? Is that the Hacv you speak of?

 

[Bud92gsx]

Every bulb in the cars are accounted for besides the instament cluster, some misc buttons and the hvac.

I do make custom led hvacs in whatever color you want as long as I have that color.

 

[98Spyder_GS]

Which part exactly is the HVAC? Does that stand for Heater ventilation air control? Just a guess...so the one missing would be the heater control knobs and speed right? I'm going to do this too...probably all in amber though for the Gauge cluster.

 

[Bud92gsx]

The gauge cluster and hvac(yes heater ventilation) along with some buttons take some weird bulbs I cant seem to find.

Your looking at mostly t10 leds, and there are a few t5s.The trunk light is the feston 39mm I believe.

I went with white.Your cluster has a coating on the back that makes the color look amber colored.

Anymore questions on leds pm me.

 

[kchaazz]

^^I did all my switches, HVAC and gauge cluster with Superbright red plug and play 12 volt LEDs. There were...I think..... two switches that required the use of regular, 5 volt Leds, but I just soldered a resistor inline on the factory power wire for those. I really like the red, and even put LEDs (coincidentily the same bulbs that go into the gauge cluster) into my Autometer Sport Comps and they can even all dim with the dimmer switch as though it were all stock. I may still have my receipt that has all the part numbers if anyone is interested.

 

[Bud92gsx]

I'll take a look shoot me the link please.

 

[98Spyder_GS]

Yes definatly that'll be awesome! Thanks for the info! I'll look into this!

 

[kchaazz]

Found my receipt. This is for 1G cars only

Cluster- 5ea #194 (These arent on my receipt so I dont have the right part numbers, but if you get LEDs to replace #194 bulbs, youre good)

HVAC- 2ea- NEO5- RHP (RHP is red, get whatever color you prefer)

AC SWITCH- 1ea- NEO4- W (This is white (Has to be white) and lights up green and orange in the little window on the switch when you push the button.
1ea- NEO4- RHP (RHP is red, choose what color you want. This bulb is for illumination of the switch when you turn on the headlights)

1GA Headlight switch- 1ea NEO3- RHP (RHP is red)

Dimmer- 1ea- NEO3- RHP (RHP is red)

Hazard- 1ea- NEO3- RHP (RHP is red)

Foglight switch- NEO3- RHP (RHP is red)

The following switches require the use of standard, 3mm LEDs and a resistor soldered inline on the green power wire on each plug going into the switch. I used 640 OHM resistor on the white led, and 560 OHM resistors on the red leds. I do not know what resistor needs to be used on green or blue so if youre wanting to use those colors, do a search and find out cause when I was searching myself, I dont believe the resistor was the same on any of the colors.

Rear wiper switch- 1ea- RL3- R4545. This is a 3mm, standard 5 volt LED. You have to open the switch, take the tiny rubber thing that holds the stock bulb off, and place the LED in the rubber thing and put it back on.

Defrost switch- 1ea- RL3- w6045 (This is white, and comes on when you push the button to turn on the rear defrost. 1ea- RL3- R4545 (This is red, and is for illumination of the switch itself, choose what color you want. Installation is the same as for the rear wiper switch- you open the switch and place the bulbs in their respective locations.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Found my receipt. This is for 1G cars only

Cluster- 5ea #194 (These arent on my receipt so I dont have the right part numbers, but if you get LEDs to replace #194 bulbs, youre good)

HVAC- 2ea- NEO5- RHP (RHP is red, get whatever color you prefer)

AC SWITCH- 1ea- NEO4- W (This is white (Has to be white) and lights up green and orange in the little window on the switch when you push the button.
1ea- NEO4- RHP (RHP is red, choose what color you want. This bulb is for illumination of the switch when you turn on the headlights)

1GA Headlight switch- 1ea NEO3- RHP (RHP is red)

Dimmer- 1ea- NEO3- RHP (RHP is red)

Hazard- 1ea- NEO3- RHP (RHP is red)

Foglight switch- NEO3- RHP (RHP is red)

The following switches require the use of standard, 3mm LEDs and a resistor soldered inline on the green power wire on each plug going into the switch. I used 640 OHM resistor on the white led, and 560 OHM resistors on the red leds. I do not know what resistor needs to be used on green or blue so if youre wanting to use those colors, do a search and find out cause when I was searching myself, I dont believe the resistor was the same on any of the colors.

Rear wiper switch- 1ea- RL3- R4545. This is a 3mm, standard 5 volt LED. You have to open the switch, take the tiny rubber thing that holds the stock bulb off, and place the LED in the rubber thing and put it back on.

Defrost switch- 1ea- RL3- w6045 (This is white, and comes on when you push the button to turn on the rear defrost. 1ea- RL3- R4545 (This is red, and is for illumination of the switch itself, choose what color you want. Installation is the same as for the rear wiper switch- you open the switch and place the bulbs in their respective locations.

That's what I needed.How do I like this post?

 

[pantherballhp]

Anyone ever have the problem when doing the middle driving lights on a 1gb all of the lights stay on when you turn the lights on?

 

[ist dwa]

I bought a set of 2057s for my 1g and they just didn't work. Yes I had it plugged in correctly, it was just that the parking light wouldn't come on, but it would light up either the brake light or turn signal, just not both parking light and stop/turn. For testing purposes I ran 2 power wires to the bulb itself and ground it would light up as it should, it was very weird. I was wondering, is there some kind of special bulb or something I need to use, wire in a resistor maybe?

Here is exactly what I bought if any one was curious. http://www.ebay.com/itm/190842214805?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I know there is a way to run LEDs, I just want to know what I need, thanks in advance.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Its an unfinished list..The unfinished parts are either replacements i cant find or Its less of a pain to "custom" it like the hvac.Switches comes to mind when its says quantity x1 with no part number

1g fogs and 2g fogs Ive messed with uses same part number for the bulb.This would be 1gb,and 97-99 avenger.

Flip the bulb around if your having illumination problems.Possibly wiring problems,But flip it around first then check it again

 

[ist dwa]

Just some info I found on the web on another forum:

I'm surprised it took 9 posts before someone mentioned the word resistor.

I run LEDs on my kawasaki triples and my father's harley. The main advantage fo an LED over an incandescant bulb(besides brightness)? vibration resistance. I used to blow bulbs on the kawi and hd all the time due to vibration (two strokes and v-twins go figure) I went LED and haven't gone back.

I did not use them on my hondas because the honda does't vibrate bulbs to peices like a kawi or hd shake machine.

The problem with putting an LED in a dual stage bulb application is that because LED require less power than an conventional bulb there will be less of a difference between dim and bright stages (it is almost negligible). Without exception when converting to LED from incandescent you have to run a reisitor on the dim circuit so as to differentiate it from the bright beam. Otherwise the LED may not change at all or the change will be minimal. People who buy 1157 replacement led and don't use a resistor call them junk because they don't understand how it works you have to use a resistor. The majority of the LED bulbs I use are 1157 replacements and in conjenction with a reistor they are way brighter than stock in both dim and bright stages.

On cb750s the rear turn signals are not running lights so you can get away with running an LED without a resistor in that location. The front turnsignals are running lights so they need a resistor. On some bikes if there is no resistor the bike will think the rear signal is out and not blink but I don't understand why on on cb750 it does this and on another of the same year it does not.

There was some guy selling a whiole ago a product called the taillighter made specially for cb750s and had something like 8 individual led bulbs to fit in a stock cb750 taillight. This was a plug and play piece becasue it had a circuit board with internal resistors. It was neat but at $100+ it was way to pricy for me.

The other advantage of an LED replacement bulb is you can get some of them that change patterns within the bulb. Anyone behind a new sportbike will have invariably seen the swirling tailight (moving) that instantly changes to a bright plusing flash when the brake is stepped on. Aside from cosmetics, there is a practical use for this feature - it keeps you from getting lost in a sea of taillights at night.

rod_f:
I've seen the Load Resistors on many online shops.
They seem to be 6 Ohm and are contained in a hefty heatsink because they get hot, ie- they consume power.
Current=voltage/resistance
I (current)=12V / 6 Ohms= 2 Amps
The resistor is taking 24W of power to simulate the normal bulb - on each flasher.
So it all works but you have no power saving.
I read somewhere that if you use an electronic flasher unit instead of the ordinary bimetal-strip one you don't need the resistors.
I'm not an electronics expert so please shoot me down on this.

Bodi:
The load resistors are only to simulate the power draw of a normal bulb, so there's little or no power saving but the LED taillamp lasts pretty musch forever.
Electronic 3-wire flashers will work with LED lamps. Auto flashers usually have an "alternate flash rate" that kicks in to let you know a signal lamp has burned out, usually when less than 4 lamp loads is detected. With LED lamps the flasher will be doing theis "alternate flash rate" which might be faster or slower than the "normal" rate depending on the flasher unless you use the load resistors (mechanical flashers and most 2-wire electronic ones will just refuse to flash at all). You can live with the fast/slow flashing, or open the flasher and do some modification to eliminate that function and use the standard flash rate.
I'm unsure of what the previous post describing resistors was talking about. All 1157 replacement LED units have the bright/dim function built in, either resistors or extra LEDs for the stop/turn brighter operation. My problem has been finding an LED 1157 bright enough to have a visible stop lamp in daylight; I haven't tried every one but the three I bought at about $10.00 each were pathetic so I ponied up the $50.00 for the Ledtronics one because I had heard it was OK. Plus it has license plate illumination built in, police can and do stop and ticket you for doing without that. None of the auto store 1157 LED bulbs I found had license plate lighting.

Geeto67:

--- Quote from: Bodi on October 03, 2005, 04:12:45 PM ---All 1157 replacement LED units have the bright/dim function built in, either resistors or extra LEDs for the stop/turn brighter operation. My problem has been finding an LED 1157 bright enough to have a visible stop lamp in daylight; I haven't tried every one but the three I bought at about $10.00 each were pathetic so I ponied up the $50.00 for the Ledtronics one because I had heard it was OK. Plus it has license plate illumination built in, police can and do stop and ticket you for doing without that. None of the auto store 1157 LED bulbs I found had license plate lighting.

--- End quote ---

The first LED I bought was for my 75 cb750 and it was one of the cheapo $10 LED 1157 replacements. Even though it has the dual stage built in if there is no resistor in the dim stage you cannot tell the stages apart. I went to radio shack bought a 6 ohm reistor and wired it in the dim circuit of the light and presto it worked. I got this advice from a harley shop who uses the 1157 replacements religiously. Unfortunatly two days later I pirated the system off the cb750 for my 73 triple and went back to a regular 1157 replacement bulb. When using the 1157 cheapo bulbs you have to use a reisitor even though the bulb has a dual stage built in. Even though the cheapo LED 1157s have dual stages they rely on the system to regulate the power going to them.

The license plate lighting is just a clear section of the stock lens where the taillight shines through on to the plate. Even with a reisitor the cheapo LED 1157 was brighter than the stock filament bulb.

The Ledtronics, if it is the one I am thinking of has the reisitance built in as part of the circuit board.

 

[ist dwa]

Alright, I am going to straight up ask. Where can I buy red 2057 LED stop/tail bulbs that just screw in and work for a 1g DSM. I have tried everything to fix mine and I think it is just a cheap set of bulbs even though there is no reason they shouldn't work.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Almost all of mine that are listed in post 1 came from ebay otherwise sharphid.el cheapo,yes they all still work.Had 1 or two not light up at all.

el cheapo pulled apart..looks like in line resistors or sum kind of fancy small elctronic thing.



On a higher note..found out replacemnts for switches and buttons etc.Pull thru Leds..Not sure on size yet;but i knew i had to post my discovery