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Resolved 2G AWD Fuel sending unit to feed line AN fitting

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red_devil

15+ Year Contributor
1,380
96
Jul 13, 2005
Richmond, Virginia
A dreaded fuel sending unit fitting question

well I was trying to remove my fuel sending unit hose to install my STM tank to rail kit. And man is this thing tight. Sprayed it for a day with blaster, I used line wrenches and made sure not to bend the line and brake it. Well the damn thing is so tight that the line twisted. I removed the whole thing and thought about drying it off and adding heat but it's so twisted now that it will reduce flow.

I've seen people install a AN fittings inside the unit and was wondering what to use and how?

Or could I cut the line and weld a AN fitting on the pipe?
 

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99gst_racer, when using the Aeroquip fittings, what 90* fitting did you use? Also, was it a pita to get the cover back on over the 90* fitting?
It's a tight fit, but not really a PITA. Tucking the wiring is more of a PITA in my opinion.

For that 90* -6 forged fitting you can use any of the following brands/part numbers (they're all the same physical size and fit):

Earls: 921106
A1: CPL906
XRP: 900506
Russell: 614806
Fragola: 498103
 
I wanted to update this again because I changed up my set up a little bit. My car was taking a lot of cranking to start and I wasn't happy with it so I took everything apart again. I drilled out the -8AN fitting some more by using a 9/16th drill bit on my dad's drill press. This was the exact size of the factory fitting so I was able to use the oem rubber gasket etc. on the fuel pump. There is a slight flare at the end of the little cup that the fuel pump slides into, so I flared the very end of the -8AN fitting using some vice grips. So the pump slides right up in there now and there is no more need for the stupid looking nylon washers.

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Any updates on this? Im ordering my tank to rail kit this weekend and would like to order the AN fitting too.
Does anyone have a setup that worked fine for a -6 AN setup? (I dont have access to a welder)
 
Any updates on this? Im ordering my tank to rail kit this weekend and would like to order the AN fitting too.
Does anyone have a setup that worked fine for a -6 AN setup? (I dont have access to a welder)
If you don't have access to a welder, the next best option is to use the method in post #53.
 
Update

Found another connector and re-tried everything using a better welder;)

What I did was cut the stock line down just before it starts to bend, get a file and smooth the end out a little. Then I then used sandpaper, wire brush, and muriatic acid to get it cleaned up
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Then I bought a -6AN male to male fitting that you can get here
AN PLUMBING.COM Earls performance products, Hose ends Hose,Adapters, fittings

I cut the bottem part off and sanded it down to make it smooth. To make it fit over the cut fuel line I had to drill out the hole just a little with a larger drill bit just enough so that it fits snug.
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Welded
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Painted
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This is what I have. VTEC-THIS sells them in the FS threads. My STM tank to rail kit bolts right up.
 
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I'm looking also change my line from the tank to the rail by STM, I think this information is valuable, would open a post but I think this will solve all my doubts
Greetings

Oswald
 
UPDATE:

In case anyone was curious I finished my new fuel pump assembly. So far it has no leaks and is holding pressure fine. I used a -8AN bulkhead fitting and -8AN bulkhead nut, -8AN to -6AN reducer fitting, -6AN straight hose fitting, a 22mm viton o-ring for the bulkhead fitting as well as two nylon washers, a 5.8mmx1.9mm viton o-ring, and a 3/4 inch drill bit to fit the -8AN fitting in the pump assembly. I had to create a step towards the bottom of the bulkead fitting to fit the pump and the o-ring up inside of it. This also keeps the o-ring from moving out of place and sealing poorly. I used two thick nylon washers between the pump and the bulkhead fitting to keep the pump from moving any in the stock fuel pump housing. I highly recommend this to anyone that doesn't have access to a welder. It was very easy to do and so far is sealing fine. I can do a write up or post any part numbers if people are interested.

Is the 22mm viton oring for the underside part of the bulkhead fitting, between the sending unit & nylon washer? What seals the fuel pump to bulkhead? Doing this on a 99 GSX..

What's the 5.8mmx1.9mm oring for?

First time doing work on a sending unit :mad:
 
Has anyone had an issue with the connector on a 2g leaking after they re installed it? I just took my car for a shake down run and when I put it on the lift I had a good amount of fuel that was collecting on the bottom of the tank.
 
To go the weld on bung route and -8, would you just go with -6 bungs and then the forged 90 degree with -6 and -8 fittings? Or is there enough room to weld -8 fittings to the housing?
 
is that wire going thru the sender or is that the way the wirer is seating on the sender ???

It runs through the sender. That's the old wire, I replaced with new wire running, this time through a rubber grommet with two small holes to protect the wire and keep it sealed. Previous owner ran it through and used jb weld to seal it. No bueno
 
It runs through the sender. That's the old wire, I replaced with new wire running, this time through a rubber grommet with two small holes to protect the wire and keep it sealed. Previous owner ran it through and used jb weld to seal it. No bueno

I still dont like that. Next time just use the liquid bulk head fitting.
 
Has anyone had an issue with the connector on a 2g leaking after they re installed it? I just took my car for a shake down run and when I put it on the lift I had a good amount of fuel that was collecting on the bottom of the tank.
I always jb welded the connector back in just for added retention and sealing. It's worked well the 3 or 4 times that I've done it.

PS - I hate those connectors. :)


You don't like the way the wires were ran through the sending unit? And what's a liquid bulkhead fitting?
Google search "liquid tight cord grip".

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Ahhh yeah i think the STM REWIRE is a little more e85 friendly LOL i didn't have to cut anything.
The STM kit (like all other kits) only replaces the wiring up to the connector on the pump assembly. To me, it makes more sense to "rewire" all the way to the pump itself rather than stopping 6" before the pump. Do it once, do it right...

What's E85 got to do with it?
 
Oh cause they require sealed electrical connections. I dunno. I guess that makes sense, but if all the others have been getting proper voltage why reinvent the wheel?

If our pumps were all getting proper voltage, then we wouldn't be rewiring them. ;) And if it's worth rewiring, then why not wire it all the way and not just most of the way?
 
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99gstrcer: I like that. Smooth work there bud. I do electronics and can say yes, there is a benefit of actually running the "rewire" all the way to the pump. Less resistance, less voltage drop under high load obviously. Those kits still leave you with the skinny ass wire to the pump. doesnt make sense but its cheaper i suppose. I did my own. smh, i used the patented "glob of JB weld" method to secure my wiring through the sender. Looks like shit, but doesnt leak a drop.

Im going to look into those connectors for the awd unit im gonna have to do. Soon as i get off my ass and start this build
 
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