front and rear motor mounts/roll stops

Posted by black_gst, Mar 4, 2011

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  1. black_gst

    black_gst Freelancer

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    are you tired of your noisy solid aluminum roll stops? or want to stop wasting money one replacments because they keep ripping even with those crappy inserts that come with the Prothane and ES motor mount kits?

    well i think i have a soultion for you
    its still in the works but i hope to have a working prototype sometime this month

    heres some teaser pics

    heres what you get once you remove the stock rubber bushings

    IMG_20110225_172745.jpg

    that rear mount jout wouldent work as is so we decided to fit an aluminum sleeve so it will accept a polyurethane bushings a bit better

    IMG_20110225_181421.jpg
    IMG_20110225_181215.jpg

    the plan is to make it a split bushings design very similar to the polyurethane trans and engine mounts that prothane makes.

    ill update this thread as this progresses!
     

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    Last edited: Mar 7, 2011
    My DSM:
    1996 Eagle Talon TSi

    13.687 @ 103.210 MPH
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  2. dsmtun3r98gst

    dsmtun3r98gst Proven Member

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    one question.... what advantage is there going this route over something like a complete custom replacement like the ones avid racing makes????
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2011
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  3. 97gst_spyder

    97gst_spyder Proven Member

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    I took mine out and gutted the factory rubber and eyelet out. Then leathed down the 1g solid prothanes for mine. Worked well and only took 3 hours and $30 total.

    But that sleeve on the rear looks awesome!
     
  4. LiquidX

    LiquidX DSM Wiseman

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    +1

    I would assume the price would have to be much better than the Avid for it to be worth while.

    So yours will be a full mount already assembled or do we need to send out ours or what would actually happen? What's the reasoning for cutting the mount in the center?
     
    My DSM:
    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    Street Build

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  5. ramsack

    ramsack Banned Member

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    The mount isn't cut, that's how they come, hence the need for a sleeve to be added. I don't get why a stock sleeve can't be used, and just have the rubber stuff gutted out of it. That could lower cost.
     
  6. black_gst

    black_gst Freelancer

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    well price is def the advantage. for both the front and rear motor mount bushings im aiming for is sub $120!

    no bad, but most dont have access to a lathe and that still leaves no solution for the rear mount

    mine will be the bushings with the center sleeves (just like prothane kit for the motor and trans mounts) and the one outer sleeve for the rear mount, if you want to install then your self you can but i am working on an exchange option where either you send me you mounts ahead of time and i send them back ready to install or i send you a set ready to install, with like an extra $60 core charge and then when i recieve your stock reusable mounts i refund you the core charge

    ramsack is correct that is how they are stock
    to be honest the cost of that sleeve isnt that much when compared to the hassle of burning or cutting the rubber out and then trying to clean it up really good so you can slip a pretty new bushings into it

    also does everyknow that the front roll stop has a 5/8 hole in it and to bolt you put through is only 10mm dia! that mean there almost a 1/4" of play in that mount. these will come with stainless steel center sleeves that will fit snugly to the bolt and mount leaving no room for any play
     
    My DSM:
    1996 Eagle Talon TSi

    13.687 @ 103.210 MPH
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  7. ramsack

    ramsack Banned Member

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    That's good! My complaint with aftermarket mounts is that they leave the hole so big to conform with OEM specs. The huge hole is only necessary for a mount that sags and changes position over time (stock rubber strap-mounts) to align the engine properly. The huge hole in the solid mounts makes a nice clunk.
     
  8. black_gst

    black_gst Freelancer

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    if anyone is interested in these you can pm me for more info. these will be ready for production very soon!
     
    My DSM:
    1996 Eagle Talon TSi

    13.687 @ 103.210 MPH
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  9. PieEyedPiper

    PieEyedPiper DSM Wiseman

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    Interesting tidbit there, about the large bolt hole and small bolt. I'm dying to go experiment with my front mount now.

    If not solid, can anyone see why using a larger bolt would be bad?
     
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  10. black_gst

    black_gst Freelancer

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    You would just have to drill out the bracket to allow for a larger bolt

    Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
     
    My DSM:
    1996 Eagle Talon TSi

    13.687 @ 103.210 MPH
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  11. black_gst

    black_gst Freelancer

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    the proto types are being made right now, i hope to have them back in my hands by the end of this week/early next, ill be posting pics for everyone to see. ill be making a very limited 1st batch of these, if you would like more info please PM me
     
    My DSM:
    1996 Eagle Talon TSi

    13.687 @ 103.210 MPH
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  12. black_gst

    black_gst Freelancer

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    Really? A Warning because I didnt capitalize three words and forgot a period? Thats a little extreme, dont you think?
     
    My DSM:
    1996 Eagle Talon TSi

    13.687 @ 103.210 MPH
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  13. 91stocker

    91stocker Proven Member

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    Wow someone was bored LOL
     
    My DSM:
    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    13.26 @ 102.09 MPH
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  14. black_gst

    black_gst Freelancer

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    Sorry man, but I had to report your post because you didnt use a Period.

    This is English class so get your $hit together! ROFL
     
    My DSM:
    1996 Eagle Talon TSi

    13.687 @ 103.210 MPH
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  15. snowborder714

    snowborder714 Moderator

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    Adam, I can call out a few more issues than you found in here, or I can PM you them.
     
    My DSM:
    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

    12.529 @ 110.820 MPH
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  16. black_gst

    black_gst Freelancer

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    Yeah I know theres a couple more in there, I just didnt point them out. I posted in the semi cool people forum to continue this there, I dont want to get another warning today LOL
     
    My DSM:
    1996 Eagle Talon TSi

    13.687 @ 103.210 MPH
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