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Fender braces fixed the floppy front end!!

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Got a set reserved from Kevin as well. Can't wait to get these installed. I bought a DC Sports one piece strut bar for my previous spyder and noticed a big change in chassis stiffness back then. Can't wait to see how big a difference these braces make. Will probably buy another one of those strut bars too eventually. I do plan on using my spyder for road racing/ autocross, so they'll see some good use in the future.
 
I'll be putting my set on here after I get my frame straightened. Definitely a nice piece.
 
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So once I have a set of braces, is there any good way to keep the doors lined up properly to avoid them hitting the door frames? Removed the doors from my last DSM and after putting them back on, the driver door still didn't close smoothly.
 
So once I have a set of braces, is there any good way to keep the doors lined up properly to avoid them hitting the door frames? Removed the doors from my last DSM and after putting them back on, the driver door still didn't close smoothly.

Having an extra set of hands helps . You just have to have patience and play around with it until it's right. I will not lie, it's a pain.
 
For ease of reinstallation I outline the shape of the hinge on the shell. I use fine tip Sharpees. I do it with hatches, hoods and doors. Especially if working solo. Plus if you want you can wipe the Sharpee mark off. I've done plenty of doors solo with a Sharpee and floor jack. It's always easier with two people but it'll work in a pinch.
 
I use a sharpie also. Mark it up, unbolt what you need to, bolt the brace in, hang it back on the outline. I have also used a scribe awl to mark panels on cars that required EXACT placement after the work. It is just about the only way to do it quickly, especially if you are working alone... Like most of us do.
 
Did any of you guys get your braces installed? Updates?

Sorry Kevin, the braces will not be installed anytime soon. Maybe in about 2-3 months. I did finish buying the rest of the suspension parts that I needed. After I install all the suspension arms, the Koni/GC and JDM knuckles, I'll do a full install/review. Thanks again for an awesome piece!
 
I have been driving around with mine for a while now, and I would not want to drive it without them again. My only complaint is that I didn't use larger round steel tubing. If I were to do it again, I think I would use 1.25" steel tubing welded to 4x4x3/16" anchor plates, and weld all of the plates straight to the chassis instead of using the door hinge bolts. It would be cool to add another section of tubing that anchored the brace directly to the crossbar behind the dash, but that's a lot more cutting and welding than I think I am going to bother with. I'll be putting in a 6 point roll bar soon anyhow, so more bracing is not really going to be needed.

Still, it is one of the best upgrades I have installed so far.
 
I have been driving around with mine for a while now, and I would not want to drive it without them again. My only complaint is that I didn't use larger round steel tubing. If I were to do it again, I think I would use 1.25" steel tubing welded to 4x4x3/16" anchor plates, and weld all of the plates straight to the chassis instead of using the door hinge bolts. It would be cool to add another section of tubing that anchored the brace directly to the crossbar behind the dash, but that's a lot more cutting and welding than I think I am going to bother with. I'll be putting in a 6 point roll bar soon anyhow, so more bracing is not really going to be needed.

Still, it is one of the best upgrades I have installed so far.



I played around with larger tubing but felt with the added weight/strength would not do much, if any good in a bolt on application. The braces are strong enough it would tear the sheet metal before flex would be a problem. If peeps are wanting more I think it's cage tied into the strut area time.
 
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