The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support ExtremePSI

2G Extremely High Idle

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Z3r0to1

5+ Year Contributor
55
6
Mar 21, 2018
Markle, Indiana
So I just got the car running, and for whatever reason the car is idling at 4500rpm. I have tried adjusting the BISS screw and attempted to reset the ISC (although I'm going to try it again). Does anyone know of any other thing that could be causing an idle that high?
 
I was reading a thread and it said that there should be around a 1/4" deflection. Is that what it is on all of yours?
 
I was reading a thread and it said that there should be around a 1/4" deflection. Is that what it is on all of yours?

I've always used the method of twisting the belt and never ever had to re-adjust the tension since 1995.
 
I began to start rebuilding the throttle body checking for leaks or anything else along the way, and immediately noticed that the isc motor was blistering hot to the tocuh and I hadnt even started the car yet...I assume its broke?
 
I've always used the method of twisting the belt and never ever had to re-adjust the tension since 1995.
I assume you mean that you attempt to twist the belt to 90 degrees to check?
EDIT:
Went through and did the pulley check as recommended. The only pulley that had any issues was the alternator pulley itself, and I wasn't sure if this was the culprit or not. If it is, would it be the alternator bearing or does the pulley not connect to the bearing?
 
Last edited:
Correct on twisting the belt.

The bearing is usually on the case so you'd have to take the alternator apart to replace it. Check to see if it's even available before taking it apart. If the alt is old and covered w power steering fluid, consider changing the alt. They're $100-$130 new.
 
There is definitely something wrong with a blistering hot isc motor. I have no idea what's going on there. What was the issue with the alternator pulley?
I went to see if I could rotate it but it wouldn't budge by hand or when I used a wrench.
Correct on twisting the belt.

The bearing is usually on the case so you'd have to take the alternator apart to replace it. Check to see if it's even available before taking it apart. If the alt is old and covered w power steering fluid, consider changing the alt. They're $100-$130 new.
I found the bearing online through an OEM parts distributer so I'm covered there. I found the how to through VFAQ and it didnt sound too hard. I just didn't know if that was the issue with an alternator that's seized. Also it isn't covered in ps fluid (got deleted in my car), but it has like almost a patina to it. Ill link a picture to this post once it stops raining
 
It isn't a hard job. Hardest part is holding the brush in place to slide the rotor back in. What's the cost of the bearing? If you're planning on rebuilding it, take it apart first so you know what parts you'll need. Compare the cost and make your decision to rebuild or replace. Guessing it's an old alternator. If so, I'd replace it.
 
The bearings are like 50-60 so I'm just going to get a used alternator off of a buddies part out
 
If your isc is hot make sure you check the coil resistance if one of the coils is shorted you may have burned out a driver in your ECU.
 
How would i check the ECU?
Pull the drivers side kick panel. The ECU is basically under the radio. There are 4 plugs and 3 10mm bolts holding it in. The drivers side has the plugs and 2 bolts and the passenger side has 1 bolt so you'll have to remove the kick panel on that side as well. After all is done just wiggle ECU out and open it up to inspect. 4 Phillips head screws hold the cover on. If you are unsure of what you are looking at post up a pic of the board for more help.
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Did some digging and found some pictures of burnt drivers on ECUs. 99.9% sure that my board is fine, but I'll post pictures for the sake of that .1% and in case anybody else wants to know what to look for.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top