Exhaust mani studs...

Posted by CrawlinZX14, Sep 26, 2011
Newbie Forum - Beginner DSM modification questions and discussions. Common, repetitive, and general discussions will get dumped here from other tech forums. Unless you're a Probationary member you shouldn't post threads here.

  1. CrawlinZX14

    CrawlinZX14 Proven Member

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    Do u guys reccommend lock tite on the threads into the head on the arp studs for a turbo mani? It has the arps in there but a few backed out and caused a leak in the fail pro gasket the previous owner had on there but there is no thing on the threads and I plan to do the gasket this weekend. Red locktite em in or no? I have seen people go both ways on this so figured I would ask.

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  2. iugrad92turbo

    iugrad92turbo Proven Member

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    I never used that stuff in the years ive own dsms i would replace the gasket, and bolts if you need to.
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  3. 97ebaygst

    97ebaygst Proven Member

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    personal preference.
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  4. CrawlinZX14

    CrawlinZX14 Proven Member

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    They are arp studs with 12 point nuts. No bolts. Had the one behind the ps pump back out and lower left side of the turbo did too. Nasty exhaust leak on it right now, but we r talking about studs and not bolts. Thus the reason for lock tite. Like if u installed arps into your head to help clamp that down. Locktite em in or let the threads do their thing?

    On head studs I either run undercut or I drop a bb into the hole so the stud never bottoms out. Old builder trick for big power engines. But normally I don't mess with aluminum heads and studs......

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  5. gsxxer

    gsxxer Proven Member

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    I don't on mine.
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  6. joshcarp81

    joshcarp81 Proven Member

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    i always use loctite especially on turbo motors where the manifold goes through a wider hot/cold cycle than n.a. cars
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  7. 04bls84

    04bls84 Proven Member

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    I would use blue locktight. It's not quite as strong as the red but still good stuff. This way if you ever need to take one out it will be a little easier than the red.
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  8. CrawlinZX14

    CrawlinZX14 Proven Member

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    I was thinking the same. I normally only use studs on cast blocks, never into aluminum before. So figured I would ask, dont want to strip threads, and dont want the stupid things backing out again.
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  9. kchaazz

    kchaazz Proven Member

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    So, you are saying that youve got the ARP stainless exhaust studs and the studs are backing out of the head, or are the nuts backing off the studs?? Ive got the SS kit, but havent put it on yet and I am curious to know. Personally, Id use copper antiseize on the nuts, but if youre going to use locktite on the head side threads of the studs, be sure to get a LT that is correct for the application. There is a lot more to locktite than just blue or red, as you may already know- Ive got at least 7 differrent variants of the red and blue and even some green on the shelf right now :thumb:
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  10. LiquidX

    LiquidX DSM Wiseman

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    I've never had an issue with exhaust manifold studs backing out of the head. Put them in without it. Don't forget that one of the center studs passes through into the head and will leak oil unless sealed properly.
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  11. O HAI

    O HAI Proven Member

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    Never had an issue with any of mine, but up to you.
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  12. kchaazz

    kchaazz Proven Member

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    Hey, Liquid, do you have the ARP SS stud kit or the OE style pinch nuts? Im just curious if anyone's had issues with the nuts backing off or galling up on the ARP studs. ARP claims that these are made of a special 300 series stainless steel which isnt effected by heat or prone to galling in the same way that typical ss fasteners can be, but Id rather hear about some real world experiences. Exhaust bolts can be a real pain in the ass- for example, I once used 3 random bolts with lockwashers and one OE bolt on my O2 housing, and the 3 non OE bolts backed out whilst the OE held :tease: Obviously, I should have selected either 3 OE replacements or bought bolts made for use on exhaust. Anyway, I purchased ARP black oxide (I was too afraid to try the SS kit) manifold to turbine housing bolts for my 18G, the O2 housing bolt kit, and the SS exhaust manifold kit. I just hope that these will stay tight cause its a major PITA to have to constantly babysit bolts that are sold under the premise of being as good or better than the factory exhaust bolts, when, as long as the washers arent worn out and the threads are in good shape, the OE bolts always stay tight.:banghead:
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  13. LiquidX

    LiquidX DSM Wiseman

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    No, I have OEM exhaust manifold to head studs.

    Well those random bolts are made for the high heat, if you search around you'll read up that you do not want to use hardware store bolts/studs for the exhaust/turbo since they cannot hold up.

    Since you have the turbo to manifold bolts, make sure you use the 2 OEM conical washers per bolt. Myself and many others have had issues with the ARPs snapping when removing by not using the conical washers.

    IMHO, I would have just stuck with OEM bolts. The ARP stuff is much better elsewhere.
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  14. kchaazz

    kchaazz Proven Member

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    ^^ And were the bolts you were having the issues with the ARP ss or the black oxide bolts? Reason I ask is because FFWD claims that the black oxide bolts dont break or seize up, and this coupled with my poor luck with OEM turbo to manifold bolts seizing up in the past, despite the use of copper antiseize, has led me to the purchase.:hmm:
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  15. LiquidX

    LiquidX DSM Wiseman

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    I think they were the black ones, I honestly don't remember. I got OEM ones after 3 of them broke and haven't looked back.

    As I mentioned, if you are going to use the turbo to manifold ARP bolts, use the OEM conical washers (2 per bolt) and NOT the ARP washers.
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  16. kchaazz

    kchaazz Proven Member

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    Thank you, sir. Ill go to the dealership and get the washers. Out of curiousity- and I assure you this will be my final question regarding the matter- What is the purpose of two OE washers per hole as opposed to one? Additional "spring" tension on the bolts to prevent them from backing out?
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  17. LiquidX

    LiquidX DSM Wiseman

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    I'm no engineer but that would be my guess.
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  18. CrawlinZX14

    CrawlinZX14 Proven Member

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    My problem was actually that a few of mine were stripped in the head. So drilled tapped and helicoiled and now they are great. Mine are the ss ones. Guess I will see later how it all holds up tho when I swap to anew turbo and a tubular mani.

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  19. Murdog

    Murdog Probationary Member

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    I work in a food processing facility, and use stainless hardware on all the equipment in the ready to eat areas. Threadlockers do not work with stainless hardware.
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  20. Calan

    Calan DSM Wiseman

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    Not necessarily. It depends on the stainless alloy and type of threadlocker.

    I use stock studs, nuts, and washers on the head/EM, EM/turbo, and O2 housing with a little anti-seize. Never had an issue with them backing out, or trouble removing them.
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  21. CrawlinZX14

    CrawlinZX14 Proven Member

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    I use anti seize on the mani to turbo. And after going thru a heat cycle I re torqued them and no issues. I have not had to remove the DP yet, so have not put any anti seize on those yet. I always run anti seize on anything of like materials that see's extreme heats. Steel bolts into the steel/iron turbo flange is def a place I dont want the bolts to seize into. Had that happen on another turbo build and trashed the threads on the turbo flange. Was not to big of an issue as I could easily replace and just drill out the upper holes on the tubular mani a bit to accept larger hardware for the newly tapped holes, but with a stock mani I would see that as a larger issue.
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