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Evo 8 ECU In 2g Works!!

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yes i am sure the pins are correct. I am using a boomslang patch harness and i had a second set of eyes go over the patch harness to double check.

The ignition wires do not change between the 3 and 8 ecu. Pin number 10 for 1 & 4 and pin number 23 for 2 & 3

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RRE's US EVO ECU Wiring Diagram
 
oh yeah i have fuel...plugs 2 and 3 were soaking wet when they were pulled
 
Swap pins 10 and 23 and see if you get fire on the coils for 2 and 3. If you end up with no fire on 1 and 4 then its something ecu related or wiring in the patch harness some how.
 
A few notes about my setup and some theories about certain issues:

95 talon w/ a 6 bolt swap. Green CAS. I used a 3G RS/GS ECU w/ EVO 94170008 ROM. Didn't use an adapter harness, I repinned the stock harness. First thing I had to do was reswap the plug wires and put them back to their standard OEM configuration. After that the car fired right up with the right MAF scaling, size and injector size change.

Had a bunch of codes pop up and went in and disabled all the emissions related items since they weren't hooked up. I've got two codes left, want to guess which two? P0335 and P0340. I know why these codes pop up. I've dealt with these codes on many occasions on the 3G. These codes will be triggered when the cam reluctor wheel is not correct for the ECU. The car will run fine but the codes are triggered due to the ECU not being able to properly sync the cam sensor. What the cam sensor tells it as home (tdc 1) is not right and pops the code. On the 3G, this is easily fixed by putting in the proper reluctor wheel.

For you 97+ guys the fix should be easy. Grab the reluctor wheel from an EVO 8 and call it a day. Yes I know the reluctor is on the exhaust cam on the VIII vs the intake cam on the 2G. However if you check the waveforms produced by the two reluctors you will see the difference. They are almost identical but the 2nd pulse is of a longer duration on the EVO.

However since I'm a 6 bolt I don't have the option. I have to run the cas because I have no crank sensor. The only thing I can think of at this point is a custom wheel. Sure I could run a EDM ROM since it doesn't have the code to verify proper sync... But that's the whole point. IT'S NOT SYNCED.

So now I guess I'm going to have to have a custom wheel made for my CAS. Joy. All this so I can sell the car with it running properly. :LOL:

However, this should get you guys running properly w/o the P0335 / P0340 codes.

edit: CYLINDER,CAMSHAFT POSIT [Part# MD375814] It's a $12 part at mitsparts.com. I have a client coming in w/ a '98 GSX in the next week or two for an EVO VIII ECU swap and I have multiple spare reluctors at my shop so I'll test my theory on his car and report back. 95% sure this is a fix for those codes on an USDM ROM.

I'm still very curious about this bit, does anyone know what the consequences of the alternate reluctor wheel actually are?

I'm fine running the EDM rom but wondered if this might actually cause any sort of performance issue. I guess that I don't fully understand this system so if someone more knowledgeable than me can chime in that would be helpful.
 
So are most people here running the 9653XXXX sort of rom now?

I'm having some issues with my car running like crap right after starting it up. If goes really lean (pegs WB lean and occasionally stalls) as soon as I hit the gas.

I've tried increasing the values in the "Async Accel vs Coolant Temp Adder", "Post Cranking Transient Enrichment vs Coolant Temp #1", and "Post Cranking Transient Enrichment vs Coolant Temp #2".

It really doesn't seem like it's helped much. Once the car warms up, it runs fine. Is anyone else having a problem with this (running SD).



And on a separate note, what Jitter Fix are you using? I have a pretty noticeable problem with it.
These two problems almost have me switching to a 98/99 ecu. They're minor annoyances, but everyone who rides in my car comments on it.
 
What are your fuel trims like? I had issues trying to run 96533706, i ended up going to 96531706 and with some periphery guidance from Danl got things running pretty decent. Need to dial in my trims. But even with the cold weather up here in Va im able to go out first thing in the morn, fires right up and drive.
 
I've added quite a bit of fuel to the cold start tables, but it still always has to add quite a bit of fuel via the STFT.

I'm going to try running a friend's stock MAF setup again to see if that solves the problem.


Ive had the same problem since it started getting cold (below ~60*F) outside. I usually have to let it idle for about 5 minutes before the car is driveable/afr is back in check. this is also on the stock 2g maf with the scaling from the rom i got from you.

i also havent touched the cold start maps at all - they are whatever the stock values are, just because - well - i had no idea what i should have changed.


as for the jitter fix - im not running SD yet so i have no idea.
________________________________________________________________


As for my previous issue with the coolant temp, i replaced the t stat with an OEM and got rid of the autozone one, and the CEL went away
 
I'm running fix 1 with no jitters, and I'm happy with my cold throttle transients after I messed with the Accel Enrich Base vs Engine Temp table.

I did start having the car die on me a lot on startup once it dropped below 50* but I never bothered to try and fix it since the car was heading to storage shortly after.
 
I'm still very curious about this bit, does anyone know what the consequences of the alternate reluctor wheel actually are?

I'm fine running the EDM rom but wondered if this might actually cause any sort of performance issue. I guess that I don't fully understand this system so if someone more knowledgeable than me can chime in that would be helpful.

Us with 3g's often swap the reluctor wheels in order to get rid of the CEL codes that are thrown when swapping older engines into a newer car (ie: a 2002 3.5L engine into a 2005 eclipse). This not only gets rid of the CEL but also solves the timing issue that comes along with the swap.

When the ECU is expecting 3 small pulses and 1 large pulse off of the ruluctor wheel on the cam position sensor but in turn sees 1 small pulse and 1 large pulse (again because of the reluctor wheel on the cam position sensor) two bad things will happen. First and worst thing... timing will not be where it should be (sure your logs will say "x" amount of advanced timing but in reality not the case)... not only will timing not be where it should be, occasionally timing will bounce around (in my 3g, my ecu constantly shifted timing around even when cruising at steady rates). Second, and not as bad of an issue, you'll throw a CEL (check engine light or SES light which ever you wanna call it).

Just thought i'd share some info with ya'll...
 
^I have had zero issues with my CAS...using a 1g "green top" cas...wired in old school rre style. I never saw any random misfires on my 95 eprom, my evo 8, or my 3g ecu. It ran smoother than stock ecu after the ecu swap. But who knows maybe my car could run better with a different CAS..Id like to get a hold of another at some point simply cause mine is old. Can we use the evo cas?

As for the cold start issue. Mine does the same thing. When its below 50*, if I touch the gas at all the car dies. Sometimes if I stab at it just right I can get the revs up. Then it goes straight lean if I put a load on it. Like 16-18:1, all over the place. As soon as the temp is above about 55* it starts running ok.

I dont even know if this is a fuel issue, because Ive added alot of gas at startup and it doesnt run any better. Although if you just let it idle it will be in the high 12s/low 13s as it should be on warmup. It almost feels to me like the car is misfiring like crazy. Which Im sure it is but I dont know if its just because the mix is off, or if there is some other, maybe ignition-related problem.

Maybe spraying some starting fluid in there while working the throttle to see if it still stalls would tell us something?
 
Us with 3g's often swap the reluctor wheels in order to get rid of the CEL codes that are thrown when swapping older engines into a newer car (ie: a 2002 3.5L engine into a 2005 eclipse). This not only gets rid of the CEL but also solves the timing issue that comes along with the swap.

When the ECU is expecting 3 small pulses and 1 large pulse off of the ruluctor wheel on the cam position sensor but in turn sees 1 small pulse and 1 large pulse (again because of the reluctor wheel on the cam position sensor) two bad things will happen. First and worst thing... timing will not be where it should be (sure your logs will say "x" amount of advanced timing but in reality not the case)... not only will timing not be where it should be, occasionally timing will bounce around (in my 3g, my ecu constantly shifted timing around even when cruising at steady rates). Second, and not as bad of an issue, you'll throw a CEL (check engine light or SES light which ever you wanna call it).

Just thought i'd share some info with ya'll...

This is not an issue. I have two cars and soon to be 3 running evo 8 ecu's in 1g's. The last one I did I set the timing with the OEM ecu and then put the evo 8 one in and checked it with the timing light, it was the same.
 
This is not an issue. I have two cars and soon to be 3 running evo 8 ecu's in 1g's. The last one I did I set the timing with the OEM ecu and then put the evo 8 one in and checked it with the timing light, it was the same.

Oh. Shit.

So I have a 95 harness..and on the 95 ecu I would ground the timing connector. I have a 1g lower case on it and as well as a harmonic balancer from a galant. So I would just use a timing light.

How do I set the timing now? Do I just mark my CAS and dont move it? Or is there a way to set the evo ecu into "timing adjustment mode"? Does this mean I have to keep my stock ecu? I wanted to sell it to someone for DSMLink...haha.
 
This is not an issue. I have two cars and soon to be 3 running evo 8 ecu's in 1g's. The last one I did I set the timing with the OEM ecu and then put the evo 8 one in and checked it with the timing light, it was the same.

Weird... What about the SES/CEL code? Was that present at all?
 
Since the pic of the harness pins have been removed anyone care to share it with me?
 
So are most people here running the 9653XXXX sort of rom now?

I'm having some issues with my car running like crap right after starting it up. If goes really lean (pegs WB lean and occasionally stalls) as soon as I hit the gas.

I've tried increasing the values in the "Async Accel vs Coolant Temp Adder", "Post Cranking Transient Enrichment vs Coolant Temp #1", and "Post Cranking Transient Enrichment vs Coolant Temp #2".

It really doesn't seem like it's helped much. Once the car warms up, it runs fine. Is anyone else having a problem with this (running SD).

I have the exact same problem in the mornings now that its cold, still haven' gotten around to really play with any of the tables that would relate to this. This has only happened after switching to SD, did you ever find out what table needs to be adjusted?
 
since the pic of the harness pins have been removed anyone care to share it with me?

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This may be outdated a bit, I saved this info way back when it first became available, back when I was one of the first to swap the Evo 8 ECU into a 2G.
 
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I have the exact same problem in the mornings now that its cold, still haven' gotten around to really play with any of the tables that would relate to this. This has only happened after switching to SD, did you ever find out what table needs to be adjusted?

Had this same issue with the base SD 9653 rom. Danl sent me a rom and im pretty sure since then the problem has been gone. And my idle is pretty dead on as well.
 
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