Ever seen a trans leak ONLY between mating surfaces?

[miliman13]

This question is for members who have rebuilt their own trans or who happen to service transmissions on occasions.

So have you ever seen a trans leak only from the mating surfaces. ??

Many yrs ago before i owned her, someone or some "Business" rebuilt the trans (No idea the extent) and welded the center diff and used grey RTV that gouged out everywhere a bit.

So im guessing this is the reason why it leaks.


**The trans has been out and had all seals replaced before, and i know 100% it only leaks from the mating surfaces.**
SEE PIC!!

And i assume the only fix is to disassemble and RTV it again correctly. ??

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[donniekak]

The only time I've actually seen a Dsm trans leak from the mating surfaces is after someone re-torqued the 36mm stake nuts without resealing the bearing plate to the mid case.

 

[miliman13]

The only time I've actually seen a Dsm trans leak from the mating surfaces is after someone re-torqued the 36mm stake nuts without resealing the bearing plate to the mid case.

Because i want to further understand, would you be so kind as too point it out. - Thanks.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[miliman13]

Wait you mean failed to use RTV after dry-fitting the end case.?

 

[donniekak]

In the diagram part 16 is the bearing plate, and 14 is the midcase. The bolts that secure the endcase (18) also go through the mid case and thread into the mid case, and bellhousing. So, removing the endcase to tighten the 36mm stake nut that causes 5th and reverse issues when it comes loose can break the seal between the bearing plate and midcase.

 

[ThunderChild]

seems like either the wrong sealer was used or the bolts were over-torqued. if not that, the case is cracked/porous.

only real way to get is sealed is pull it apart and re-seal it.

 

[miliman13]

In the diagram part 16 is the bearing plate, and 14 is the midcase. The bolts that secure the endcase (18) also go through the mid case and thread into the mid case, and bellhousing. So, removing the endcase to tighten the 36mm stake nut that causes 5th and reverse issues when it comes loose can break the seal between the bearing plate and midcase.

this makes sence.

This sounds like my issue.
As i leak at every surface to maybe excluded the actual bellhousing
So between end case, bearing case and mid case.

 

[miliman13]

So assuming there is no damage to any gears themselves
A basic rebuild kit would contain synchros and bearings, maybe roll pins. ect..( since i'm there right)

And since i'm very unfamiliar with trans parts and purchase.
Are there recommended kits, "un-recomemed kits" as well.

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

Check out import performance transmission

Im useing there automatic kit but sure they have a manual kit

 

[donniekak]

Jacks has complete rebuilt kits for the manual transmissions.

http://www.jackstransmissions.com/collections/awd-rebuild-kits

 

[bastarddsm]

I've had a couple that leaked, but I think the cases were warped or something from so many high power pulls, and stripped gears. My last one I used "honda bond" and I'm pretty happy with the results.

 

[EC17PSE]

@twicks69 can help you out some how, he always does

 

[miliman13]

I've had a couple that leaked, but I think the cases were warped or something from so many high power pulls, and stripped gears. My last one I used "honda bond" and I'm pretty happy with the results.

Because i dont know the history of mine, i asume its possible it once may have warped from exces (x,y,z)..

Once i tear it down ill use a straigt edge and feeler gauges.


Do the gears have # on them like our engines? So i can identify what upgrades if any were used.?



* p.s she slides in like butter. No grinds.. with a welded center diff.....and all of that while pulling a trailer.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[donniekak]

I've had a couple that leaked, but I think the cases were warped or something from so many high power pulls, and stripped gears. My last one I used "honda bond" and I'm pretty happy with the results.

I fixed an eclipse at the Honda dealer one time, they gave me a bunch of Honda bond, great stuff.

 

[miliman13]

Hey I'm back.. I had to jb weld something and decided to revisit the trans leak.. Once I thought it was one, of the long bolts that holds the cases togethor.. I used a bit of thread tape Bs a crush washer but I still saw the same leak.

Here are some pics.. It really looks like the bolt is the culprit since a few centimeters up in either direction the surfaces appear dry.

Any one ever leaked from the bolts *?


And I wiped it all down and will re-re-check it again.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Vegas Smith]

It could be a leak between the cases that pools up at the bolt. I had a transmission that would do that even though I cleaned the mating surfaces multiple times.

 

[miliman13]

It could be a leak between the cases that pools up at the bolt. I had a transmission that would do that even though I cleaned the mating surfaces multiple times.

What was your solution?

 

[DogWhistle]

Have you thought of using a brass, crush washer, like the brake lines?

If the case is damaged above that bolt, but not below it, it will fill that bolt hole with fluid. Your only two choices are: 1) to separate the case and resurface the mating surfaces, including above and below each bolt, or 2) seal the bolt against the case.

 

[miliman13]

Have you thought of using a brass, crush washer, like the brake lines?

If the case is damaged above that bolt, but not below it, it will fill that bolt hole with fluid. Your only two choices are: 1) to separate the case and resurface the mating surfaces, including above and below each bolt, or 2) seal the bolt against the case.

I Used a washer but it was used. I'll give it another go.
When you pull out the bolt completely it does leak.

 

[miliman13]

SOLVED !!!
I believe i have finally, found the source of my leak; after many many years of wondering, having to refill and loosing quality Redline fluids.

Ill snap a pic, but i found a tiny 1mm long hair line crack on the end case, an inch or so above that "suspected bolt".

I'm very exited to learn this is all it is... i was ready to tear down... so glad that is not the case.
and i apologize for the mix-up.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

]The fluid comes out of that little crack, and makes it way towards the bolt were it puddles.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[DogWhistle]

Very good detective work. Now you made us want to go check our trans case, because it does the same, slow drip.

Any one have suggestions for a solution?

 

[miliman13]

Maybe a dye. *?
I had to clean and check repeatedly..
I've done this several times throught the years.
First time I've seen it.

Solution ; jb weld for me.

 

[Terrj]

Shiet, both of mine tcase and trans leaks but barely so i just leave it be